Yo what's happenin guys, haven't posted in a while because i am wayyyy too busy with my TII swap ... anyways, i am not at the point where i cannot move any further without swappin front covers and oil pans, so instead of me sending in my front cover and oil pan to some place and getting them back in a year, i was wondering... What/where needs to be drilled and such... if anyone could reply that would be MUCH appreciated-- my swap depends on iT!!
And where did everyone get their custom driveshafts??

PS and yes i searched but everyone simply says "swap front cover and oil pans" and/or "send them in somewhere"
Thanks guys.

Zachstylez

 

buy 1984 GSL-SE oil pan ... still available new from Mazda or from Mazdatrix

use front cover from a 13B GSL-SE, or from a 12A

 

use your old front cover and drill a 1/2 or a 3/4 hole below the omp and tap the hole for either a 1/2 or 3/4 pipe thread type fitting... nice and easy

as far as the oil pan goes the se oil pan is the only way to go...you can use any oil pickup as all the pickups are the same 79 thru 85 on the 13B and 12A motors..

 

Yo thanks a lot guys... I am planning on using my 85 SE Front cover (thanks Rotaryshack man for the details!!) and i am gonna use my SE oil pan, but nothing needs to be prepped for that?

Thanks again guys you are the ****.

Zachstylez

 

The front cover is easy.After you drill and tap below the oil metering pump,youll just need a short section of rubber hose to connect to the stock drain pipe.Cut the 2 bolt flange off the pipe and connect the two pipes with the rubber piece and some clamps.Simple,easy and it replicates the stock setup.No drilling the oilpan,no welding.It should be said you cannot use this method on a S5 swap if the stock electric metering pump is used.I had to drill and tap at the lower front corner of the cover to get the drain to clear the OMP.

For the driveline,youll need a TII driveline so the shop will know what size,spline to make it.I believe the shop I used utilized a Ford Courior front yoke and pipe for the shaft.He said metric pipe was touger to find,so an American vehicle with the same size front yoke as a TII was used with SAE pipe.The rear flange was the stock TII pattern.This gave me 2 large,greasable U-joints.You dont want to use the tiny FB U-joint out back.To connect the larger rear flange to the pumpkin,I had a machine shop cut down a TII rearend flange to match the stock 84 flange.This only involved machining a little of the length off and machining the seal surface down a bit.Then I went to a bearing/hydraulic shop and purchased a seal that matched the FB pumpkin OD and the custom flange's ID.
BTW,if you havent lowered your car already,when you do, get nothing softer than 175lb(Racing Beat's 1" 175lb work well).There is a substantial amount of rearend squat under acceleration and the larger TII rearend flange will hit the tunnel under power in the lower gears.

Driveline=200
Flange=35
Seal=10
Never having to worry about breaking a U-joint and pole-vaulting my car....priceless!

 

I used a TII driveshaft (big diameter & big u-joints), had it shortened and then had a 2nd gen NA companion flange machined to work in the 1st gen pumpkin. Funny enough, the setup is for sale...and I'm in Seattle. Make an offer.

 

Yeah I'm using a borg warner 75 diff (8.8 inch) from an australian EA ford falcon, so I'm going to have to get medieval on the floor pan methinks.

 

You had a TII driveshaft shortened?The 2nd gen drivelines are already almost a foot shorter than the stock 1st gen.If it were that easy, I wouldnt have had to had a full shaft made up.

 

True. FC shafts are lots shorter than 1st gen stuff.

 

Now that you mention it, I don't recall if it was lengthened or shortened...I gave the driveshaft to the driveline shop along with the measured length I needed and they cut the tube off and replaced it with the correct length tube. Basically, I supplied them with a yolk, flange and two u-joints, I guess you could say. The tricky part was the 2nd gen NA companion flange. Not only did I have to get it machined down to fit, but also had a very thin sleeve made up (press fit into pinion housing) so I could use a standard seal (not Mazda). I'm sure there are other ways, but this seemed the best way at the time and it worked out very well.

 

anyone know if there is a way to subscribe to a thread on this new forum without replying? That's why I am replying, because it's the only way I know how to subscribe now

 

Okay, well i have a TII input shaft and a U joint... do i need another U joint?
Thanks

(and how did each one of you guys mount the tranny?)

Zachstylez

 

This is what I would like to know. I know about changing the tail shaft and all but I wish someone sold the spacer block that I will need that goes between the crossmember and tranny. Or if someone had a schematic showing the dimensions that the block needed to be? I don't have the slightest idea how to measure it all out with the tranny in there. Someone could really profit if they started selling the adapter needed to mount the T2 tranny.

 

Here's what I did to mount the tranny. I fabricated an aluminum adaptor, with recessed through holes for Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS) and threaded holes for the tranny mount bolts. To lay out the holes, I measured the stock tranny and the TII unit side-by-side, knowing the distance from the mounting face (to the engine) were identical. I forget the measurements, but the Series IV TII tranny threaded holes were about half an inch back and an inch narrower (or something like that...close, but far enough apart to make the adapter easy to engineer). I won't go into too much detail because those with the tools for the job (drill press, taps, micrometer, etc.) will know what to do. Anyway, I also used similar aluminum stock for spacing down the tranny mount to match the thickness of the adaptor.



Hope that helps.

 

Yes, that does help, thank you for explaining that!

 

How thick is that alumimun?