1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Oil Metering Pump

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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 02:32 PM
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Oil Metering Pump

After some research, I have came to the conclusion to eliminate my oil metering pump since it is leaking and all. I will be running MMO premix with 1oz MMO: 1 gal. gasoline ratio.

Is the oil meter pump blockoff plate on the FCs going to work on my SA22 with a 12A?

If not, I am thinking taking my OMP off, disconnect the linkage and plug the oil lines to the carb. properly, then JB weld the ports on the OMP unit and reinstall the sucker.

What's your opinion on that?

Thanks,
Nelson
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 06:13 PM
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this is but looking at your signature reminded me, isn't this the year where the SA becomes smog exempt?
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 06:47 PM
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The OMP will explode.
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 07:12 PM
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I'm not sure if the FC block off plate will work. I know Mazda Motorsports sells one specifically for the 12a, but I just gutted mine and JB Welded the holes.
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 07:14 PM
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The OMP will still be pumping and the oil's gotta go somewhere. It'll probably leaking worse than ever. Either, 1) get a rebuild kit from www.loweperformance.com and fix the pump or 2) remove the pump, put on a blocking plate and premix.
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 07:41 PM
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i just set mine on its lowest setting and let it leak
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 07:42 PM
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Originally posted by cdrad51
this is but looking at your signature reminded me, isn't this the year where the SA becomes smog exempt?
here in ohio, the cut off date is 25 years. so, i have to wait until next year for my 1980 to be exempt. at which time i will get historical plates for it. for note, there are only 12 counties in the state of ohio that have to pass an emissions test. stupid e-check. glad i am not in one of those counties.
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 09:48 PM
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Originally posted by Jeff20B
The OMP will explode.
Good point!!!

What if I gut the interior of the unit and plug the outlet ports with JB weld? This way, I am just using the unit as a block off plate.

The sad thing is, I never took one off to see what's in there. I will do that soon.

Nelson
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 09:53 PM
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Originally posted by cdrad51
this is but looking at your signature reminded me, isn't this the year where the SA becomes smog exempt?
I wish!

Here in California, the car has to be 30 yrs or older in order to be smog exempted!

Nelson
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 09:56 PM
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30? DAMN!
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 05:22 PM
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c'mon - 30 isn't that old
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 05:43 PM
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I'm not even 30 years old yet, but both of my REPUs are a few months older than me. They'll turn 30 before I do. Wow, my '73 12A is already 30 years old.
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 07:54 PM
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What if I gut the interior of the unit and plug the outlet ports with JB weld? This way, I am just using the unit as a block off plate.
that'll work mate, remove the end plates, and the bolts holding on the adjustment arm. Remove a few more bits from inside it untill it's just a hollow tube
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 11:42 AM
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Originally posted by chairchild
that'll work mate, remove the end plates, and the bolts holding on the adjustment arm. Remove a few more bits from inside it untill it's just a hollow tube
Thanks, I just got a used unit from a junkyard to play with too.

I am thinking maybe I can somehow modify the stock unit to pump in MMO instead of motor oil. I know there has an adaptor avaliable but it will be interesting if I can use the stock unit to pump in MMO.

Nelson
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:08 PM
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Originally posted by nelam
Thanks, I just got a used unit from a junkyard to play with too.

I am thinking maybe I can somehow modify the stock unit to pump in MMO instead of motor oil. I know there has an adaptor avaliable but it will be interesting if I can use the stock unit to pump in MMO.

Nelson
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 02:17 PM
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I knew about this. Thanks though.

I am just not willing to give up $76 for that yet!

Nelson
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Old Jan 6, 2004 | 03:02 AM
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what I am seeing in the adaptor, the main thing that costs is the extension for the drive shaft to the pump.

it looks like it needs the extension because the spacer has to be thick enough for a hose barb to screw into it.

I wonder if there is enough engagement with the driveshaft to allow a THINNER plate with a different hose coupling setup to fit between pump and engine, and still have enough engagement to reliably drive the pump.

how much torque does the pump take to run ?

I am thinking very little should be needed because the pump needs to pump very little volume at hardly any pressure.

same with the oil passage through the spacer plate, it shouldn't need to be large at all since there is very little flow.
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