I'm sorry to bring this subject up, but for the past 3 months on and off, I've searched the site looking for the information I need.

There are two yellowish oil lines running from the carb, to two spigots on the engine with a rubber sleeve on each. I have had these melt (oil fire....yeah...), and am looking on how to replace them. Every diagram and picture I have ever seen shows there are 4 lines going to 4 different fittings on the engine that seems to be nowhere near where the two lines I mentioned go into the engine. I may just be a confused individual, but the diagrams I've seen have also said that these lines come from the carb, to the omp, to 4 lines to the engine. I've been through every inch of my car, and this is not how it is set up. I have an '82 FB, and this is kicking my ***.

I would greatly appreciate all the help on this I can get.

 

Dude, that's your OMP lines!

 

chill JJ. You are still a noob too lol. Anyways, to answer the question. There are only 2 of the plastic lines. They both run parallel from carb to the oil metering pump. They can be bought either new from mazdatrix.com or used at a junkyard. Could also check out the for sale section and post a want to buy ad. If you do a search for OMP or OIL METERING PUMP (sometimes called metering oil pump - a search would bring same results for either way) it should help you out some.

See J? It wasnt that hard.

 

I told him what they were -_-

 

nubie (who spells it like that anyway????)

 

It's PHONETIC

 

IC ET PHONE home what?

 

I don't get it?

 

For clarification, carbs have 2 lines FI have 4.

 

and for even more clarification, you should completely eliminate those omp lines. they melted because they were unhappy. so make it right... block off the omp and run pre-mix!!!

 

I hate that... People just wanna throw the damn thing away and premix...

Just give up on the system... And for what? It's not terribly unreliable. It calculates ratios for you automagically. You still get oil to the rotors when you're coasting (For FI.).

The only places I see a premix being much of a benefit is if you're running a supercharger on a draw through carb setup. The premix would help lubricate it and seal it better where the screws mesh (roots) or vanes meet the housing (centrifugal)...

Of course there are always some nice improvements to the stock system, such as rebuilding the OMP with viton seals and using the custom made teflon lines (Cheaper than stock replacements too.)

I also like a block off plate with adaptation so you can run an external reservoir. Lube oil and burning oil should stay seperate.

I think I'll take the stock system with the above improvements and a 1 qt per fillup MMO premix...

 

Letting the OMP decide when my rotors get lubed is just as evil to me as letting my transmission decide when to shift.

My car has enough of a personality already, why let it control stuff?!

 

personally I agree with Pele but that would suck to have an OMP go out on you. But it only takes a second to check them.

Not to hi-jack this thread(even though it has been done to quite some extent already). I find it hilarious that Ian is calling J a noob when he has less posts and joined on the same date....Not trying to flame just that it was ironic and horribly funny!

 

I hate to be a noob once again, but is the OMP mounted on the engine itself? Because that is where the lines lead to...

 

The OMP is mounted towards the front of the engine (On the front cover... The front most layer before you hit the pulley.) It's on the bottom near where the cover meets the oil pan, on the exhaust side...

The tubes lead up to the carburetor on a carbed car (Two tubes only), or to the intake and to the oil injectors on the top of the rotor housings (Total of four tubes.) on EFI cars.

There is a tutorial in the archives on how to make your own out of clear teflon hose. It includes a bill of materials, source of parts, assembly diagrams, and pics. Very detailed.

How so? The OMP has worked for years. We see N/A's with 200K, 300K and up miles on em...

Transmission shifting affects how the vehicle operates and is a preferance of the driver. Seal lubrication is part of the internal engineering of the engine.

Besides... On an EFI car, you lose the seal lube oil when you coast because you're not pulsing the injectors... Or if you have to shut the engine down and coast through a mobile smogging station...

Plus, I don't wanna end up with too rich of a mixture in my gas tank and burn up my cat, carbon foul my plugs too early, or coat a nice shiny chrome exhaust with soot.

You can always adjust the throttle linkage of a real OMP. (S4 and earlier. I'd never run an S5 or later OMP because I'd never run a stock S5 or later ECU. )

 

yes those are your OMP lines, I for one have mine blocked off... Pele, you have some good points that you shouldn't give up on the system but personally I blocked mine off because it was leaking everywhere and I didn't trust it was feeding my engine enough oil...

Also when you premix you are not burning engine oil but rather 2-stroke oil which is designed to burn cleaner, and will in the long run keep your engine cleaner with good compression. Either way you have to be careful, forgetting to premix is bad. As well as starving your engine of oil because of not checking your engine oil level...