Oil Drip ??
#1
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Oil Drip ??
I hate to even ask this but I left the house this morning and the wife called to tell me that there is a little spot of oil in the garage from wherre the 7 was parked.. I cnnot look at it here at work but was wanting to get a feeling where these car leak from the most..
Just trying to get an Idea so I will know where to start to look at.. I know it could be many of things... I just don't know what is the most common.. Drian plug gasket???
Just trying to get an Idea so I will know where to start to look at.. I know it could be many of things... I just don't know what is the most common.. Drian plug gasket???
#2
1st-Class Engine Janitor
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In order of descending pain to repair (others; feel free to copy and extend):
Accidental spills while filling
Drain plug
Oil filter
Oil cooler line fittings
Oil filter pedestal o-rings
Oil pan gasket
Oil cooler line fitting fracture from debris/vibration
Rear main seal (can be replaced with engine in car, in theory)
Front main seal (pretty much requires engine pull to do properly)
The Dreaded Dowel-Pin Leak between housing sections (usually requires rebuild to stop permanently)
Accidental spills while filling
Drain plug
Oil filter
Oil cooler line fittings
Oil filter pedestal o-rings
Oil pan gasket
Oil cooler line fitting fracture from debris/vibration
Rear main seal (can be replaced with engine in car, in theory)
Front main seal (pretty much requires engine pull to do properly)
The Dreaded Dowel-Pin Leak between housing sections (usually requires rebuild to stop permanently)
#3
agree with divin driver. Most likely oil pan gasket, easy job and not to expensive, also check gasket for oil heat sensor. lots of 8mm bolts, dnt over torqe and while in there its a good idea to check for internal damage. takes about an hour...good luck and happy wrenchn
ps. gasket costs 40-50 bucks
ps. gasket costs 40-50 bucks
#5
1st-Class Engine Janitor
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Oops, forgot one:
Accidental spills while filling
Drain plug
Oil filter
Oil Level Sensor & seal (on the side of the oil pan, down low, driver side)
Oil cooler line fittings
Oil filter pedestal o-rings
Oil pan gasket
Oil cooler line fitting fracture from debris/vibration
Rear main seal (can be replaced with engine in car, in theory)
Front main seal (pretty much requires engine pull to do properly)
The Dreaded Dowel-Pin Leak between housing sections (usually requires rebuild to stop permanently)
Drain plug
Oil filter
Oil Level Sensor & seal (on the side of the oil pan, down low, driver side)
Oil cooler line fittings
Oil filter pedestal o-rings
Oil pan gasket
Oil cooler line fitting fracture from debris/vibration
Rear main seal (can be replaced with engine in car, in theory)
Front main seal (pretty much requires engine pull to do properly)
The Dreaded Dowel-Pin Leak between housing sections (usually requires rebuild to stop permanently)
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#8
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I would assume this can be done in the car also... At least I hope so...
#9
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Happened to me and it was one of the omp lines that had cracked. Check this real soo or you may loose the engine! I have also had a leak from where an oil line returned into the engine, I believe, caused by a copper seal ring. If you check a parts breakdown of the lubrication system you will find it.
#10
1st-Class Engine Janitor
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Updated:
What helps most is determining visually what area of the engine the oil is originating from; eliminates 80% of the list, usually. Remember that leaked oil can travel along frames and pans before dripping off.
Accidental spills while filling
Drain plug
Oil filter
Oil Metering Pump (OMP) lines cracked, or just not sealing well
Oil Level Sensor & seal (on the side of the oil pan, down low, driver side)
Oil cooler line fittings
Oil filter pedestal o-rings
OMP Flange Gasket or internal seals
Oil pan gasket
Oil cooler line fitting fracture from debris/vibration
Rear main seal (can be replaced with engine in car, in theory)
Front main seal (pretty much requires engine pull to do properly)
The Dreaded Dowel-Pin Leak between housing sections (usually requires rebuild to stop permanently)
Drain plug
Oil filter
Oil Metering Pump (OMP) lines cracked, or just not sealing well
Oil Level Sensor & seal (on the side of the oil pan, down low, driver side)
Oil cooler line fittings
Oil filter pedestal o-rings
OMP Flange Gasket or internal seals
Oil pan gasket
Oil cooler line fitting fracture from debris/vibration
Rear main seal (can be replaced with engine in car, in theory)
Front main seal (pretty much requires engine pull to do properly)
The Dreaded Dowel-Pin Leak between housing sections (usually requires rebuild to stop permanently)
#11
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Great help guys... It is almost center of th emotor... Pan is wet all around it athe flange.. I will have to get it up I guess to see about the lines and the sensor.. I am 6' 1" and 220lbs.. Not easy for me to get under it..
It also has a gas smell to it... Not the oil but the car itself... I know carb cars do an extent but this seeps into the house from the garage and I have it on the other side trying to keep the smell out of the house,,
Those oil solutions should be a sticky under FAQ...
Will mobile 1 hurt anything running it? I have a friend that can get it for the same price of dino oil.. If it will work good in my rotor motor I will use it,
It also has a gas smell to it... Not the oil but the car itself... I know carb cars do an extent but this seeps into the house from the garage and I have it on the other side trying to keep the smell out of the house,,
Those oil solutions should be a sticky under FAQ...
Will mobile 1 hurt anything running it? I have a friend that can get it for the same price of dino oil.. If it will work good in my rotor motor I will use it,
#12
Fighting Global Cooling
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Always use 20w50ish whatever you do. The gas smell is probably unrelated. Did you find where it was leaking from? The oil pan isnt really much of a clue since most of these leaks will run down the motor onto the pan anyways. Is there any oil on the sides of the motor or the dreaded (Ive had it, twice) oil by "12A" on the housings?
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I was looking on Mazdatrix for the OMP lines and did nto see them.. I have decided to replace the oil pan gasket, the drain plug gasket, the OMP gasket and the OMP lines along with the oil level sensore gasket/waher...
I figure the car being 30 years old it is time for these anyways..
Any idea on where to get the OMP lines? I am also doing the bushings in the shifter while I am working on it.. . It will be a full weekend I guess when I do it..
I figure the car being 30 years old it is time for these anyways..
Any idea on where to get the OMP lines? I am also doing the bushings in the shifter while I am working on it.. . It will be a full weekend I guess when I do it..
#15
Twisted.........how much I envy you!!.....your life must really great...... if you can concern yourself with a tiny drop of oil from a 30 y o car.
OMP lines.....you can match up the ID at an auto parts store and use rubber tubing......but that isn't your style.
My OEM engine leaked oil from the front oil seal from 1993 to 2004. It kept the undersides very clean and rust free. I did check the the exhaust and heat shields yearly for build up because of the fire hazard.
OMP lines.....you can match up the ID at an auto parts store and use rubber tubing......but that isn't your style.
My OEM engine leaked oil from the front oil seal from 1993 to 2004. It kept the undersides very clean and rust free. I did check the the exhaust and heat shields yearly for build up because of the fire hazard.
#17
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Oil drip
Think about what you may have replaced or fixed recently...Always a good place to start. My 12a sprang an oil pan gasket @ 189,000 with nothing else related being fixed/repaired.
#19
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Ummm... welcome to the joys of owning an RX7!
After 25-30 years, you can expect it will leak oil and smell like gas - it's part of the rotary allure.
After 25-30 years, you can expect it will leak oil and smell like gas - it's part of the rotary allure.
#21
seniorchief
An RX-7 that leaks is not necessarily a given. I have an 85 GSL-SE that has 134k miles on it and has "zero" leaks. Preventive and scheduled maintenance along with timely repair/replacement of defective parts will eliminate most if not all leaks.
#22
RAWR
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If you have a FMOC, you should check the seal around the drain plug on the bottom of it (maybe it's only the FC FMOC that has the drain plug, anywho). I just replaced all my gaskets for my FMOC lines, and now it's leaking out of that seal.
But the first place I'd check would be the oil pan gasket. Common leak.
But the first place I'd check would be the oil pan gasket. Common leak.
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