I'm replacing the oil o rings under the oil filter pedestal. I do have an old RB oil pressure & temp adapter under it. Once I tighten it all down the o rings under the oil filter pedestal will pinch and curl. The ones under the adapter are fine.

Factory mazda o rings.

I tried some Threebond silicone to keep them in place but that didn't help. How tight do you tighten this thing down? I've never had this prob before and everything is super duper clean.

 

Never seen that problem before; sounds like the rings are twisted?

You tighten them all the way down so the metal is flush. Seem to remember there's a torque spec for it, given in in/lbs? Doesnt have to be horrid tight, but you do want the rings fully encapsulated by the metal.

 

Section 30, page 10, 85 FSM. Last column lists torque specs for all nuts/bolts not otherwise noted. The silicone may be your problem. Remember the old Brylcreme commercials? 'A little dab'll do ya'. If nothing else, try some Hylomar.

 

^ +1, plus a painfully-learned personal lesson: That "not otherwise noted" torque table refers to the outside diameter of threaded portion of the faster... NOT to the size wrench used to turn it!

Big difference in strength between a 10mm bolt, and a bolt with a 10mm hex head.

 

The silicon is your enemy here. I used hylomar on the front cover o-ring once - pinched out. Lesson learned. I install them dry now - keeps them in place during assembly. They get oiled soon enough right?

By the way, how are your apex end pieces doing these days? Did you ever attempt to clearance them?

 

Reinstalled this morning with zero silicone and they're in place, perfect no pinching or curling.

I used the 2 piece stock 2nd gen apex seals, no clearacing needed. They went *clink* like they're supposed to when tightening the tension bolts, as each piece separated from the super glue. Makes good compression when turning by hand. The one piece seals need to be clearanced.

I did silicone the front cover o ring and all 4 dowel o rings so hopefully they went together right. I'll find out once it builds oil pressure. Should be installed soon.

 

I built a 4 port 13B for the GLC yesterday and installed it today. What's keeping you? lol kidding I'm sure you're busy.

Specs: 74 spec intake ported Y plates, 74 rotor housings, R5 assembly 9.2 compression ratio (same as any '74-'83 13B before the 9.4 cr GSL-SE and RE-SI). Atkins 3mm apex seals which I did not need to use super glue to keep the end pieces in place. Competition out oil springs. Smashed rear oil pressure reg, good for 85 PSI. Greddy 8 pound super light flywheel, stock disc and stock p-plate. Oh yeah, and a beehive stretched to fit a 13B. lol

I installed all o-rings dry as a bone. I even elected to not use anything on the coolant seals. I only sometimes use wheel bearing grease to hold them in their grooves if they tend toward falling out, but otherwise prefer dry because they don't grow on you if you have to unstack the engine for any reason proir to tightnening the tension bolts. I did apply RTV to the rotor housing/side plate legs to seal up the ACV area and to keep oil from seeping up out of the pan.

Quicksteel was added to the ACV port in the intermediate plate. 20mm brass freeze plugs from Mazdatrix were tapped into the rotor housings with a little RTV to act as a low speed lubricant and to provide a better seal than brass on aluminum. Tried it both ways before and without RTV always drips a little when manifold is off. So use RTV on the freeze plugs and not on o-rings!

 

Doing other things non Mazda, exercising more and painting the engine bay. Detailing all kinds of stuff for the repu motor. And I'm learning to weld. Just flux core MIG 110volt but it will come in handy.

Sounds like a nice motor there Jeff. That flywheel will let it zing up quickly.

I really like the pineapple coolant pressure tester. Held a steady 15.25psi for three weeks. What did you use for assembly lube? I have tub of Moly based wheel bearing grease that is super slippery. Worked very well.

 

I used 20w50 oil as assembly lube. The side seals and corner seals were original to these rotors and only swapped the oil seals because they were out of spec. I didn't feel the need to use anything other than oil since they will be in contact with oil from now on, you know? I also like how when you first fire it up it doesn't smoke like a bad engine for a long time. It just lets out a little for about a minute then clears up. Those smoke-show batscreen rebuilds aren't for me anymore.

I did apply a little wheel bearing grease to the corner seals of the front rotor where the apex end pieces are, to hold them in place while installing the intermediate plate since it is always a little challanging by yourself.

That's impressive pressure holding. Yeah I have a 110v fluxcore that I use for exhaust. Works well enough.

Looks like nice weather. I'll get out there and finish the install today.

 

The GLC's engine fired up in less than a second of cranking and idled right at 1k immediately. I just sat there speechless. I shut it off to make sure it wasn't a fluke, and it fired right back up, but by then the carb was nearly out of gas so I let it run dry.

Succesful test firing. Hmm, I wonder if I should throw the Camden on it now or break it in on the stock carb for a while?

 

yeah me either, ive been using redline wheel bearing grease, and i love it its great.