1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

is this normal??

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Old 02-20-03, 10:29 PM
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is this normal??

ok, when i get going like 110- 120 my car seems to start to get very hot, i never let it get too hot, i shut it down before then, but if were to keep it giong, i think for sure it would over heat, i was wondering if this happens to others too or if its a problem with my car. i would just think going 120 things would be able to stay on the cooler side, but i could be wrong.
Old 02-20-03, 11:08 PM
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Your waterpump is cavitating.
Old 02-21-03, 12:14 AM
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Yup. The only real choice is to get an electric water pump. Very cool. Not cheap.

Or I guess you could run thicker water ... hmmm ...
Old 02-21-03, 02:08 AM
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Or run a dual belt pully...Doesnt that help?

~T.J.
Old 02-21-03, 02:19 AM
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Changing to a larger main drive pulley will lower the water pump as well as alternator RPM, reducing coolant cavitation. Dual belts keep it from slipping once the air pump is removed.
Old 02-21-03, 03:15 AM
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I dont think I've even gotten my car to 100mph yet. I'm scared it will wobble to pieces.

After 80mph, the car will start with the vibrating. What would that be......unbalanced tires?
Old 02-21-03, 06:49 AM
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Originally posted by xxxHondaGuyxxx
I dont think I've even gotten my car to 100mph yet. I'm scared it will wobble to pieces.

After 80mph, the car will start with the vibrating. What would that be......unbalanced tires?
It could be your tires, but it could also be any number of other things. Start with checking the tires because that should be the cheapest.
Old 02-21-03, 07:41 AM
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you could also use water wetter. that help some. otherwise its an underdrive pulley for you.
Old 02-21-03, 07:46 AM
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Originally posted by Directfreak
Your waterpump is cavitating.
ditto
Old 02-21-03, 07:52 AM
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Nope it is not normal,

replace you waterpump ...

original pump should do the job...

or maybe the cooling system is cloched...
Old 02-21-03, 08:36 AM
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I agree with Mireck. The pump shouldn't cavitate till 7K. Chances are you either have a loose of slipping belt, or a bad pump.

Could also be a bad pressure cap, partially clogged rad, bad thermostat, etc

I would start with by tightening/replacing your belt first. It's always best to start cheap
Old 02-21-03, 08:39 AM
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Originally posted by Mark S
Could also be a bad pressure cap, partially clogged rad, bad thermostat, etc
Actually, - Make sure you even have a thermostat, Rotaries need thermostats or the water will run loops around the thermostat hole and bypass, and will never really see the radiator.
Old 02-21-03, 10:26 AM
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Originally posted by RacerX7fb
Changing to a larger main drive pulley will lower the water pump as well as alternator RPM, reducing coolant cavitation. Dual belts keep it from slipping once the air pump is removed.
This is backwards. A larger main pulley would make the water pump spin faster.
Old 02-21-03, 10:48 AM
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Sterling beat me to it!

Smaller pulley = smaller distance moved each revolution. Larger pulley = larger distance moved each revolution and :. higher rpm on pump.
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