Not getting any spark on trailing, don't know how to test the electrical before the distributor, but both T1 and T2 doesn't give a visible spark, L1 and L2 still gives a healthy bluish arc.

Anyone know where should I begin?

additional info:
1984 RX7 12A carb'd
no fuses were popped
wires are functional when switched from Trailing to Leading to test for spark.

 

check the coil.

 

just checked ignition coils, got a reading of 1.0 Ohms and 5.4 k Ohms, so it looks healthy to me.

 

is your tachometer working?

 

the multimeter? how would I check that?

if you meant tachometer for car mileage, no, rebuilt engine.




when using the above picture position, I get the resistance of 11.7k on the one closer to the front, and 5.4k on the second ignition coil.

Think the second ignition coil is dead? Should they both be the exact same?

 

if my ignition system is faulty, I may look into the MSD direct fire ignition system, since I believe replacing my ignition coils is roughly $40 less than upgrading to the MSD direct fire ignition system.

no idea how to scale how hard it'll be to do it, I have a very beginnings experience with electrical systems.

 

the ignitor is probably bad, although the trailing ignitor also drives the tachometer 81-85, and the fuel pump in 84-85. so you should have other symptoms if its wired stock

 

fuel pump was re-done to an electrical, straight connection from the fuse box under drivers seat.

tachometer died a long time ago, should I have grounded that or do something to it to change it?

 

the tach runs from the trailing ignition, so if that isn't working the tach won't work either. probably an ignitor

 

no. i was asking if the tachometer (rev counter/gauge) in the car is working.

if you're getting twice the resistance on the trailing coil (the front one), then something is probably wrong. i don't have quick access to a reference right now so i'll take your word that 5.4 is normal.

try swapping the coils and see if you get spark on the trailing side. if you do, then you know what you need.


EDIT: nevermind this post. you're already getting help. i didn't refresh the page.

 

rev was working before the car died, car hsa been completely dead and I can't get T1 and T2 from the dizzy to create any spark.

I don't have any reference to conclude that 5.4 is normal, I just saw that anywhere between 4k and 17k is the general resistance for ignition coils.

 

car also died yesterday if it was working, sorry if I answered the tach.question stupidly. Not sure what you meant by it's wired.

 

no problem about the tach question. i was getting at the same trailing ignitor suggestion, i just wanted some evidence (if you will) before stating it.

i'm not trying to speak for him (J9fd3s), but what he was saying about the car being wired stock was the same thing, only difference is he paid attention that you have an '84, so he also mentioned the linkage with the trailing ignitor and the fuel pump on S3 cars.

so you said the fuel pump wiring has been modified, and the tach was working before it died yesterday, so what about now? when you try to crank it, does the tach move at all?

also, did you try switching the leading with the trailing? as i said earlier, you can switch the coils. however, you should also be able to switch the wires on the ignitors, if you'd prefer.

 

ah ok, if car died, and trailing ignition doesn't work, it needs an ignitor. fuel pump and tach should also be dead, if they are wired up as stock.

 

I tested the spark plugs from distributor, only leading creates spark.
changed the coil to distributor wire, still only leading works.

actually, not sure if I burnt it out, but only L2 is creating spark, L1 doesn't create spark from a sparkplug anymore.

Tachometer does move up a little bit when I turn the key.

fuel pump is aftermarket and wired straight from the fuse box.

 

I didn't realize distributor just pops off, no screw or bolts.

the top part of the tower seems cracked, nothing like a little fiberglass can do!

 

not sure what you're referring to here.

how old are the cap and rotor?

 

Cap & rotor are typical 'tune-up' items, because you either get cracks in the bakelite material that allows condensation to get in screwing with your ignition, or the contacts get burned and carbon fouled resulting in poor spark.

If that's the only issue you've noticed, a new cap & rotor is cheap parts which may cure your ills. $28.65 for cap, $21.71 for rotor at Mazdatrix (*I should get a sales commission from these guys!): Distributors and Ignition Parts

 

you seriously should!
gonna try the rotor out, cap seems fine =)

will keep you guys updated if that was the solution.

 

not for nothing, but you should probably get both at the same time. my very first rebuild would not fire and it turned out to be the cap and rotor, which had both come from a previously running engine.

you and me, both.