no spark
10-29-13, 04:06 PM
#1
no spark
Ok so here's what I have. Gsl-se 13b with an edelbrock 1405 carb. All new ignition, plugs, wires, distributor, cap, igniters, and coils. All replaced during the build.
So the other day I was driving down the highway and it just died. Tach stopped working too... Checked fuel that's good. Checked spark nothing. Replaced the fusible link, and checked my fuses under the dash all good. So why am I not getting spark?
My idea after looking at the wiring schematic for 12a and 13b fbs. just run the positive sides of the coils to my battery with a fuse and a switch for off and on. on a 12a positive goes directly to the key turn then to the battery through a fuse. On the 13b though it hires to the injector wires then to the ecu then.. Well who knows... On both models the negative goes to the ecu. Also the positive trailing coil goes to one ignitor in the negative from the lead goes to the igniter. That part I wouldn't change. So experts, would this work? Or is there a better way to go?
So the other day I was driving down the highway and it just died. Tach stopped working too... Checked fuel that's good. Checked spark nothing. Replaced the fusible link, and checked my fuses under the dash all good. So why am I not getting spark?
My idea after looking at the wiring schematic for 12a and 13b fbs. just run the positive sides of the coils to my battery with a fuse and a switch for off and on. on a 12a positive goes directly to the key turn then to the battery through a fuse. On the 13b though it hires to the injector wires then to the ecu then.. Well who knows... On both models the negative goes to the ecu. Also the positive trailing coil goes to one ignitor in the negative from the lead goes to the igniter. That part I wouldn't change. So experts, would this work? Or is there a better way to go?
10-29-13, 07:01 PM
#2
Power (Black/yellow wire) for coils comes from one of the main relays to the coils /injectors/ECU. Main relay is one of two round, rubber relays in the left corner of the engine compartment near the windshield. That relay is triggered by the Black/white wire from the ignition switch. The main power for the relay is the White wire from one of the fusible links in the link box with two links. If the ground to the coils and relay is good and everything else is hooked up correctly, power wires from the battery to the + coil terminals should fire the plugs. A switch in those wires would allow you to turn the car off. I'd check the relay before I did that. You really bought new ignitors?
10-29-13, 07:10 PM
#3
The new distributor came with the new igniters. I did a test and just ran a short wire to the coils from the Battery and it ran perfect. Though it didn't turn off till I pulled the wire. I'm just going to run it with a switch. Make it more simplistic. It's carbureted so might as well make it as simple as I can
10-29-13, 07:49 PM
#7
Test the relay. If you don't have a multimeter, hold the relay while someone turns the ignition switch on. You should feel and hear it click. If it clicks and you still have no power to the relay, check the fusible link. If no click check the 20 amp fuse on the right side of the fuse box second from the front of the car. If the fuse is good check the ground wire to the relay. Ground point for that wire is near the headlight retactor motor on the right side of the engine compartment.
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10-30-13, 01:22 PM
#10
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