Carb on and off 4 times. Apart 3. Perfectly clear inside. Rebuild kit used. All jets passages clean etc and it still runs like crap!

Hard to start, HAVE to use the choke. REAL rich smelling. Anything below 1500 give it up. Tachs real good above 2, to where ever you want. New plugs, plug wires etc etc. rats nest gone. Sounds like its missing real bad.

I wonder if it's this ACV valve? It and air pimp getting tossed when I get home. If that dont work ABYBODY got a working carb they'd sell?

 

Oh and compression in the 90's at 200 rpm. All 6 are good.

 

You could always say you were traning for Karate.

Mr Miagi:
Carb on.
Carb off.
Carb on.
Carb off.
carb on.
Carb off.
Carb on.
Carb off.

Just avoid anyone in a skeleton costume.

 

Ummm yeah if you say so?

Any advice?

 

Have you checked for a vacume leak?

 

Yes, with choke pulled and at 2000 or so. About 16 vac

 

Sorry, I just saw something that reminded me of the original Karate Kid

I'm not an expert on Nikki carbs but I assume you set the float level and checked in the site glass?

Does your carb have the two solenoids going to the float bowl? I think those are supposed to be energized when the engine is running regardless of whether you removed the rat's nest.

I don't know, running rich; sounds like float level or maybe the jets are in the wrong part of the carb primaries in secondaries and vice versa.

I do know there are several experts on the nikki, find a thread where it's being discussed and ask one of them. They are very impressive with their knowledge (and love) of the Nikki.

 

You're supposed to have to use the choke to start the car cold.

I feel your frustration, but having recently shot myself in the foot for two days over an obvious error that I just couldn't see because I was staring too closely at things for too long, I also know that it's real possible to miss elementary things when you're deep and long on a project and things aren't behaving rationally.

On start, the main carb issues are initial throttle opening, fast idle opening, primary and idle mix, and choke angle.

First thing I'd be checking myself, with the symptoms you're reporting, is that you don't have the primary and secondary jets swapped in either bowl. It's a well-known error that many instruction sheets are unclear or have errors with regard to the relationship between the jets and the bowls; even the Mazda carb manual has an error on this for the 79-80 carb, for example.

If you had a secondary jet on one of the primary circuits, it would explain your symptoms; too rich a mix requiring excess throttle opening to get enough air. Way rich on the MAS screw would have the same effect.

 

was the carb rebuilt because it was dirty or to try and fix this problem? if it was rebuilt to fix the problem, its probably a vacuum leak. i had one i rebuilt the carb on twice before i found that the air pump had come apart and the shrapnel had jammed one of the anti afterburn valves, which of course is a HUGE vacuum leak, and since its not external you can't find it by spraying carb cleaner...

#2 is the intake gasket, they go bad, very easy to change

#3 is the shutter valve, they go bad, can can also be a big vacuum leak

 

Its about 85 degrees outside.. I don't think the choke was completely necessary. The 83 with 43k on it, will start with just a pump pump crank. Starts very quickly too

When I did the jets, I did one at a time..

 

The car was sitting for 15 years. It was completely gummed up with junk in the carb. It wouldn't do a damn thing until I did this.

OK today, it lost the air pump, air control valve, the port switching thingy going to the cat with a little hose. (Car didn't have any exhaust past the passenger seat). Also yanked the anti after burn valve. Plugged the big hose to the shutter valve. (Which I'll rid myself of when I pull the intake and change that gasket - Also plugging the coolant holes there too). Also defouled my plugs...

It starts and runs pretty quickly. Won't idle. Dies if I let off the gas, still smells a bit rich. Between the base part of the carb (The one with the MAS screw) and the middle parts with the floats. I see some wetness, raw gas. Also the sight glass has the gas a bit too high. So looks like the float is out of adjustment, but today was a BIG improvement!


The result? Th car will start very very quickly, revs pretty damn good

 

Sounds like you have one of those "one medium thing and a few little things" situations more than "one major problem."

Keep plugging, you'll get it.

 

Have you checked your fuel injectors. When they clog it feels like a its running on one rotor

 

It can also be afm. Check for loose connection vacuum lines. Replace all if you have to.

 

Mines did it at one point and it was because of my homemade intake that was sucking in extra air that I didnt know about. After fixing it, it felt like a brand new car.

 

I hope you find out your problem soon.

 

Try seafoam it works magic. It also unsticks your springs. And also give better compression readings.

 

So, you decied to jump into a 10-month-old thread to tell a guy with carb issues to check his fuel injectors and AFM... And took 5 of your 18 posts (27%) to do it?

That's a derf trifecta few new people ever achieve. Congrats!

 

Lol...

 

HA HA and while your at it, why didnt you tell him to check his blinker fluid!!!! lol
I hear that low blinker fluid and dirty injectors are hell on cars with Nikki's!!! lolololol

 

The fuse for the muffler was bad.

 

Oh crap man!!! I forgot to tell you to check the muffler fuse!!! my bad... lol