Newb Nikki rebuild
08-15-07, 05:30 AM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Newb Nikki rebuild
Hi guys ive bought a kit and taking the plunge to rebuild my 4 barrel Nikki carb this weekend.
Ive got a fair amount of information but just have a few questions.
- What kind of cleaner do you guys recommend for soaking parts?
- Any points to watch out for when removing/ installing the carby
- A list of tools required, ( ive got most but just checking )
- Just general things to look out for.
cheers matt.
Ive got a fair amount of information but just have a few questions.
- What kind of cleaner do you guys recommend for soaking parts?
- Any points to watch out for when removing/ installing the carby
- A list of tools required, ( ive got most but just checking )
- Just general things to look out for.
cheers matt.
08-15-07, 06:18 AM
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
same
yeah ill be using all the info i currently have which is the haynes manual, shop manual, the carby manual and a heap of stuff i got off here and well see how i go?
Ill keep a record of everything and do it step by step (with pics) for the other newbs, ill run it past a few of the experts on here and then post it.
Ill PM you with anything "interesting" hopefully i don't stuff it up.
Cheers Matt.
Ill keep a record of everything and do it step by step (with pics) for the other newbs, ill run it past a few of the experts on here and then post it.
Ill PM you with anything "interesting" hopefully i don't stuff it up.
Cheers Matt.
08-15-07, 06:39 AM
#4
Usually the rebuild kit has a very helpful set of instructions that are specific for the kit you bought, I've found it's as good or better, and usually simpler, than following Haines or the FSM.
There is nothing really difficult about it, just have a clean place to work where you can find small parts when you drop them and keep careful track of EVERYTHING, especially those little ball bearing valves (the ***** go UNDERNEATH the little brass rods, which act as weights to hold the ball in its seat).
It is also helpful to have a second carb for reference. When the above plan doesn't go quite right, you can go to the second carb to see exactly how it's supposed to be.
Compressed air is also extremely helpful, now that I have it I would even say essential.
Have fun!
Ray
There is nothing really difficult about it, just have a clean place to work where you can find small parts when you drop them and keep careful track of EVERYTHING, especially those little ball bearing valves (the ***** go UNDERNEATH the little brass rods, which act as weights to hold the ball in its seat).
It is also helpful to have a second carb for reference. When the above plan doesn't go quite right, you can go to the second carb to see exactly how it's supposed to be.
Compressed air is also extremely helpful, now that I have it I would even say essential.
Have fun!
Ray
08-15-07, 06:55 AM
#5
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I bought a gallon can of stuff at Advance Auto to soak the carb parts in-- can't remember the name of it. It did a fair job.
I took LOTS of picture with my digital camera, loaded them on my laptop, and had it in front of me when I started reassembly. There were a couple of parts that I would have never gotten back on with the pics.
Pay particular attention to the throttle cables/linkages. I had to reassemble this about 5 times before I got all those lifttle things on right.
Good luck!
- David
I took LOTS of picture with my digital camera, loaded them on my laptop, and had it in front of me when I started reassembly. There were a couple of parts that I would have never gotten back on with the pics.
Pay particular attention to the throttle cables/linkages. I had to reassemble this about 5 times before I got all those lifttle things on right.
Good luck!
- David
08-15-07, 07:45 AM
#6
There are pictures here that might help.
http://intertron.com/ron/
I use "Carb and Parts Cleaner" made by Gunk. Parts stores usually have it in a gallon can.
Ron
http://intertron.com/ron/
I use "Carb and Parts Cleaner" made by Gunk. Parts stores usually have it in a gallon can.
Ron
08-15-07, 08:14 AM
#7
1. Take pictures
2. Take notes
3. Use a nice big flat surface. Table with white rags works well.
4. Clean everything thoroughly. Rebuilding a carb is 90% cleaning. You will be surprised when you see the kit
contents. It's mostly just gaskets for assembly.
5. I used the aerosol cans of carb cleaner. I liked them better then just soaking. I also found a guitar string useful to run through the small passages, then I would blast them with carb cleaner.(CarlRx7)
6. You may have to adjust your floats a few times to get them right. Take your time. Adjust them according to the FSM and no other source. A dial is recommended.
7. When the new needle valves and seats are installed, work them up and down by tapping the floats about 50 times. They are manufactured with a thin coating that will cause them to be a little sticky for awhile. A few drops of sewing machine oil helps also.
8. When bending the ears on the floats to adjust their height; be careful using pliars. The ears are a soft metal and you will unintentionally put little grooves in the ears when you bend them for adjustment. This will cause the needle valve spring arm to stick during action, in turn, causing your float level to act wierd. Once adjusted perfectly, take a piece of sand paper and polish those little ears nice and smooth.
9. Check out www.mazspeed.com - good info there also
Good luck
2. Take notes
3. Use a nice big flat surface. Table with white rags works well.
4. Clean everything thoroughly. Rebuilding a carb is 90% cleaning. You will be surprised when you see the kit
contents. It's mostly just gaskets for assembly.
5. I used the aerosol cans of carb cleaner. I liked them better then just soaking. I also found a guitar string useful to run through the small passages, then I would blast them with carb cleaner.(CarlRx7)
6. You may have to adjust your floats a few times to get them right. Take your time. Adjust them according to the FSM and no other source. A dial is recommended.
7. When the new needle valves and seats are installed, work them up and down by tapping the floats about 50 times. They are manufactured with a thin coating that will cause them to be a little sticky for awhile. A few drops of sewing machine oil helps also.
8. When bending the ears on the floats to adjust their height; be careful using pliars. The ears are a soft metal and you will unintentionally put little grooves in the ears when you bend them for adjustment. This will cause the needle valve spring arm to stick during action, in turn, causing your float level to act wierd. Once adjusted perfectly, take a piece of sand paper and polish those little ears nice and smooth.
9. Check out www.mazspeed.com - good info there also
Good luck
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08-15-07, 09:18 AM
#10
well
i adjust myn all the time its just that we have had alota people posting threads that there car is flooding after a rebuild and its usally cause thereve messed with the floats or the needles are stickin"usally they fuct with the float tabs a bit"
and those floats are sooo sensative you can have it adjusted to the messurements and still have issue's with flooding.
just trying to prevent headaches if they were fine in the start..
i adjust myn all the time its just that we have had alota people posting threads that there car is flooding after a rebuild and its usally cause thereve messed with the floats or the needles are stickin"usally they fuct with the float tabs a bit"
and those floats are sooo sensative you can have it adjusted to the messurements and still have issue's with flooding.
just trying to prevent headaches if they were fine in the start..
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