New guy here, just bought GSL-SE and have a couple questions
05-12-07, 11:19 AM
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New guy here, just bought GSL-SE and have a couple questions
Hey everyone, I'm new to rotaries and this forum.
I was previously into mopar v8 stuff, but I won't bore you guys with that. I'm now getting back into cars after a few years of avoiding the scene, and I decided to focus on something different that i've always liked, specifically rotaries. I'd like to eventually find a nice rx3 coupe to build, sometime in the future. I figured a good starter car would be a 1st gen rx7, so I bought a '85 GSL-SE yesterday for $1600.
It has a decent body, with only very minor rust behind the passenger wheelwell. Interior is fair, needing a few peices replaced. It runs and drives good except for one thing which I discovered on the way home after buying it.
It started sputtering and dying under a load after about 15-20 minutes of driving. I'm thinking either fuel blockage or overheating? It has a new fuel filter and pump, replaced by previous owner so I could test drive it. Maybe rust has plugged the new filter already? I'll have to remove the low pressure side of the pump and take a look. The belts look worn and cracked, but still work. The temp guage seems to be stuck just above the C, not sure whats wrong there. I pulled the radiator cap and let it idle for awhile, and the coolant doesn't seem to be moving much. So maybe stuck thermostat?, or bad water pump? I'll be checking that stuff this afternoon.
I have a question about wheel/tire combos. I wanted to buy some weld superlites for it (I plan to drag race), and they make a 15x7 with 3.5 backspace, or 4.5 backspace. I was thinking the 4.5 backspace would work, but figured I could ask. Maybe some other guys on this forum have run superlites on their first gen.
Also, regarding the '85 GSL-SE model, is it a rare enough model to avoid cutting into? I don't think i'll be needing to anytime soon, but if I need a cage or bigger tires to get quicker I could probably just find a non GSL-SE car to minitub and cage.
I was previously into mopar v8 stuff, but I won't bore you guys with that. I'm now getting back into cars after a few years of avoiding the scene, and I decided to focus on something different that i've always liked, specifically rotaries. I'd like to eventually find a nice rx3 coupe to build, sometime in the future. I figured a good starter car would be a 1st gen rx7, so I bought a '85 GSL-SE yesterday for $1600.
It has a decent body, with only very minor rust behind the passenger wheelwell. Interior is fair, needing a few peices replaced. It runs and drives good except for one thing which I discovered on the way home after buying it.
It started sputtering and dying under a load after about 15-20 minutes of driving. I'm thinking either fuel blockage or overheating? It has a new fuel filter and pump, replaced by previous owner so I could test drive it. Maybe rust has plugged the new filter already? I'll have to remove the low pressure side of the pump and take a look. The belts look worn and cracked, but still work. The temp guage seems to be stuck just above the C, not sure whats wrong there. I pulled the radiator cap and let it idle for awhile, and the coolant doesn't seem to be moving much. So maybe stuck thermostat?, or bad water pump? I'll be checking that stuff this afternoon.
I have a question about wheel/tire combos. I wanted to buy some weld superlites for it (I plan to drag race), and they make a 15x7 with 3.5 backspace, or 4.5 backspace. I was thinking the 4.5 backspace would work, but figured I could ask. Maybe some other guys on this forum have run superlites on their first gen.
Also, regarding the '85 GSL-SE model, is it a rare enough model to avoid cutting into? I don't think i'll be needing to anytime soon, but if I need a cage or bigger tires to get quicker I could probably just find a non GSL-SE car to minitub and cage.
05-12-07, 03:54 PM
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How many miles on the car?
I just had to replace my leading and trailing igniters, two days apart.
Does your tach work properly?
If it flops around and dies periodically and the engine stumbles and bumbles, you might need to replace the trailing igniter.
If the leading ingiter is dead, you won't be able to start the car, as it controls the fuel pump.
I just had to replace my leading and trailing igniters, two days apart.
Does your tach work properly?
If it flops around and dies periodically and the engine stumbles and bumbles, you might need to replace the trailing igniter.
If the leading ingiter is dead, you won't be able to start the car, as it controls the fuel pump.
05-12-07, 04:08 PM
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I agree, it could be your ignighter, and it could also be your pump or filters. With electronic parts, sometimes it is a craps shoot. I would definately replace the filter any way. I am not sure how long the car as been sitting, but if it has been sitting for a while, you may have some garbage in the tank.
Overheating? Possible, but I don't know your particular car.
It also never hurts to check your cap and rotor, just for extra measures, hey, you never know. I have seen folks seemingly hopeless over a non-running, or a poorly running car, only to find that there was a small crack and a little moisture in the cap.
Either way, hope this helps.
Overheating? Possible, but I don't know your particular car.
It also never hurts to check your cap and rotor, just for extra measures, hey, you never know. I have seen folks seemingly hopeless over a non-running, or a poorly running car, only to find that there was a small crack and a little moisture in the cap.
Either way, hope this helps.
05-12-07, 05:29 PM
#5
The rust in the wheel wells is a common issue. To see the extent of the damage remove the rear bins behind the seats. If it hasnt eaten through then arrest the corrosion soon or youll have more reapirs to do. Remember thats structural integrity loss!!!!! And we cant have that now can we?
05-12-07, 11:34 PM
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I'm draining the gas tonight, will drop the tank tomorrow and check it out. Hopefully I can just have it flushed and it will be fine. If it needs repair I may have it modded for a sump and some AN fittings, something i'd want to be doing eventually anyway.
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05-13-07, 12:59 AM
#8
How many miles on the car?
I just had to replace my leading and trailing igniters, two days apart.
Does your tach work properly?
If it flops around and dies periodically and the engine stumbles and bumbles, you might need to replace the trailing igniter.
If the leading ingiter is dead, you won't be able to start the car, as it controls the fuel pump.
I just had to replace my leading and trailing igniters, two days apart.
Does your tach work properly?
If it flops around and dies periodically and the engine stumbles and bumbles, you might need to replace the trailing igniter.
If the leading ingiter is dead, you won't be able to start the car, as it controls the fuel pump.
If you lose the leading you will have litttle or no power.
05-13-07, 01:13 AM
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How many miles on the car?
I just had to replace my leading and trailing igniters, two days apart.
Does your tach work properly?
If it flops around and dies periodically and the engine stumbles and bumbles, you might need to replace the trailing igniter.
If the leading ingiter is dead, you won't be able to start the car, as it controls the fuel pump.
I just had to replace my leading and trailing igniters, two days apart.
Does your tach work properly?
If it flops around and dies periodically and the engine stumbles and bumbles, you might need to replace the trailing igniter.
If the leading ingiter is dead, you won't be able to start the car, as it controls the fuel pump.
The car ran fine for the first 15-20 minutes of the trip home, then it started sputtering and dying. I could let it sit for 5 minutes or so, then start it and get another block or so then it would start sputtering again.
05-13-07, 01:50 AM
#12
It's a good idea to clean out the tank. Before you do though I recommend that you pull the feed hose from the tank and see what type of gravity flow you have and if anything foreign particles are present.
Also check that the hoses to and from the pump are in no way kinked.
Also check that the hoses to and from the pump are in no way kinked.
05-13-07, 10:02 AM
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Are you sure about that?
I have been told by 2 RX7 specialty shops locally that it is the leading igniter that operates the fuel pump.
If you lose the leading igniter the engine won't operate period!
I have been told by 2 RX7 specialty shops locally that it is the leading igniter that operates the fuel pump.
If you lose the leading igniter the engine won't operate period!
05-13-07, 10:27 AM
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The local expert I trusted is no longer in the business unfortunately, so I had to talk to someone else.
At any rate, I have 2 new igniters and the engine runs perfectly now. In fact I even had the differential gear oil and transmission gear oil replaced as I want to keep the car running for years to come to help recoup some of the pain that the igniters cost me financially.
At any rate, I have 2 new igniters and the engine runs perfectly now. In fact I even had the differential gear oil and transmission gear oil replaced as I want to keep the car running for years to come to help recoup some of the pain that the igniters cost me financially.
05-13-07, 10:34 AM
#17
The local expert I trusted is no longer in the business unfortunately, so I had to talk to someone else.
At any rate, I have 2 new igniters and the engine runs perfectly now. In fact I even had the differential gear oil and transmission gear oil replaced as I want to keep the car running for years to come to help recoup some of the pain that the igniters cost me financially.
At any rate, I have 2 new igniters and the engine runs perfectly now. In fact I even had the differential gear oil and transmission gear oil replaced as I want to keep the car running for years to come to help recoup some of the pain that the igniters cost me financially.
At one time I was selling ignitors for $20.00 apiece. I sold 8 at that price.
Someone on the forum always has some lying around.
Then there is the tutorial on how to use the GM type in the archives and those are only $15.00- $20.00 a piece brand new.
05-13-07, 10:47 AM
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I could have bought a newly arrived distributor, including igniters, from an autowrecker but I was reluctant to buy used parts.
Time was of the essence. I needed to get the car running right away because my wife drives it to work and I couldn't part with my Maxima.
Consequently, I thought I would single-handedly stimulate the Canadian economy by buying new parts.
Time was of the essence. I needed to get the car running right away because my wife drives it to work and I couldn't part with my Maxima.
Consequently, I thought I would single-handedly stimulate the Canadian economy by buying new parts.
You should of put a WTB ad in the classified section.
At one time I was selling ignitors for $20.00 apiece. I sold 8 at that price.
Someone on the forum always has some lying around.
Then there is the tutorial on how to use the GM type in the archives and those are only $15.00- $20.00 a piece brand new.
At one time I was selling ignitors for $20.00 apiece. I sold 8 at that price.
Someone on the forum always has some lying around.
Then there is the tutorial on how to use the GM type in the archives and those are only $15.00- $20.00 a piece brand new.
05-13-07, 11:03 AM
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I am not sure what you mean. I didn't install the igniters.
They are held in place with screws.
They are held in place with screws.
05-13-07, 12:19 PM
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