Moonchopper

Well, I had to grind the short bolt that connected the control arm [not the suspension arm, but the arm that goes over the ball-joint threads] to the shock strut, and eventually got the arm off, but now I'm having trouble with the 'control arm'. It's stuck on the ball-joint threads, and I've tried everything that I know to try and get it off. I've tried using a gear puller [tightened it as much as I could without breaking my arm], hammering on the gear puller while it was super-tight, tried heating it up alot and then using the gear puller/hammer combo again, and I'm getting really frustrated.

I'm thinking that the ball-joint will have to be replaced anyways [even possible? Or should I just get a whole new-used suspension arm?], so would I be able to have the joint pressed out and then just replace the ball-joint and boot, or would it be more worth while to replace the suspension arm? The car won't be licensed for another week or 2, so that's how long I have. Of course, I want to be able to get the arm on so that I can at least drive this thing up and down my driveway (maybe on the street, but not too much :P).

Pelezo

Forgive me if I make a mistake but while working on changing my springs and struts my dad mentioned that he had to go to a shop and get the ball joints out with a special machine at a shop.

GavinJuice

They do sell new balljoints for the control arms, but from alot of what i've heard most people opt to buy new control arms. Yes they are more expensive but the contruction of the control arms isn't very well designed to take the beating of a hammer and press once it's said and done. Plus being 20yrs old they take their toll. But you can get replacement balljoints if you can get them out without tweaking the control arms oryou can just get the whole arm also. Mazdatrix sells them for $144 a peice which includes a new arm balljoints and the inner control arm bushing. http://mazdatrix.com/hsteer1.htm ~Gavin

Moonchopper

Here's some pictures so that ya'll can have somewhat of a clue as to what I'm talking about. The 1st one is the ball-joint from the bent suspension arm. [no troubles with it]. The 2nd picture is the ball-joint/control arm that I'm having trouble with. The 3rd is there because it has a picture of the gear puller I tried using.

pip12434

I use a copper/brass hammer to remove these. Yo can hit it without damaging the threads (mostly). I love that thing
A solution for you would be to buy the parts from a straight car at a pull it yourself yard for $10.

Dave

numan2

ok to get that off you usually use a tool called a "pickle fork" between the balljoint and the arm some autoparts stores will rent these for a few dollers but they do tearup the grease seals when you use it.
another method that works but I don't advise it on this setup is smacking the side of the arm with a large hammer but because of the design it will distort the mating flange on the arm.
the reason it's so hard to get off is the taper fit on the joint/flange that wedges the 2 parts togther as time goes by corrosion bonds the 2 pieces together so it can be pretty hard to disassemble.

Moonchopper

Well, my dad just got home last night, and he says that we have all the tools necessary, and claims that he can get it out. I've already got new ball joints/bushings/etc. on order from Advance Auto, so I'll have those by tomorrow.

Rx7carl

How did that cntrol arm get bent? You ARE replacing that right? Only 2 pieces of advice. 1- be careful pressing the balljoints in and out. The arm is fragile and can get bent easy. 2- think about putting 2 or 3 small tack welds at the bottom of the balljoint so it cant back out. Ive heard stories of this happening. I didnt on the racecar (didnt have a wekder at the time) but I check it after every session.

Moonchopper

heh, University_seven hit a curb while racing his girlfriend, and he got depressed after it happened, and so he sold the 7 to me for $800. Of course I'm replacing it. The control arm that I'm having trouble with [steering knuckle won't come off of ball joint] came out of the '83 rx-7 that I got a while back, and it's going to replace the bent control arm.

From the looks of it, University_seven must have hit that curb really fawking hard. I saw the suspension arm and was like "DAYUM!"

Moonchopper

Here's a reference. The blue rx-7 is the 83, the white is the 82.

Rx7carl

FYI, get a new tie rod adjuster. If the arm is bent, the adjuster most certainly is too.

Moonchopper

It doesn't look bent at all. I find it hard to believe that that small piece of metal would get bent so easily.

Just to make sure we're both on the same page, the 'tie rod adjuster' is that piece of metal with the reversed threads between the inner and outer tie rod ends, correct? I went ahead and replaced the outer tie rod ends, now I'm going to replace the control arm bushings and ball joints [as soon as we get our compressor fixed].

P.S. Pickle forks work wonders! My dad found a tie-rod puller/popper and after a couple hits, the steering knuckle came off the ball joint threads like nothing ever happened. Sweet

Rx7carl

Yup thats it. Roll it on a flat surface to check it. Ive bent 2 of them. They arent near as robust as the rest of the parts.

Moonchopper

Alright, finally got everything back together after all the shops/stores were closed on Saturday. Got old ball joints pressed out, new pressed in with no problem. Got all 4 tires on the ground, tried to go over to a license plate agency, but they were f'ing closed! [I was pretty pissed. I can understand Christmas and Christmas Eve, but DECEMBER 27th?! bleh.]

So, I went ahead and got my car insured, and was going to take my car up to a tire shop to have it realigned (needs it badly, camber is way wacked. And I replaced the tie-rod ends.) But they told me they wouldn't be able to align it until tomorrow morning [won't start anything new after 5.]

Well, I figured I would swap the plate from my Jeep to my RX-7 to make sure my 7 drove alright. The thing is frickin' AWESOME! However, it's got a grinding noise somewhere in the rear (Sounds like right-rear wheel, but I'm not placing any bets on it. Sound travels, ya know.)[Older brother said that it sounded like the driveshaft rubbing on something] It pops whenever making a low-speed right-hand turn. I searched around and have an idea as to what could be the problem. I'm going to take the wheels off tomorrow and check out the wheel bearings. Then I'll check the axle innards [if metal shavings come out of the drain hole, I'm going to be pissed ] But, worst come to worst, I have to yank the axle from beneath the '83 [LSD, baby!] and stick it under my '82. Oh darn