I swear that if I pull out my clutch master and put back in the brass crush washer looking thing that my clutch will bleed properly and hold pressure. Stupid clear plastic discs that come in the Beck Arnley rebuild kits are WORTHLESS.

That is all.

Also, I'd fix it just to prove myself right (pretty sure this is what I did last time too) but Im just too pissed off right now to go mess with it again. I'll do it tomorrow after work or something.


-IanS

 

OK so I guess rebuilding my master did nothing. I went ahead and went back out there and tore it apart and swapped out the little clear disc for the brass crush washer looking deal that was in there previously. Same issue, so not really sure what to do now. I doubt I can return a rebuild kit.


The clear disc that I am talking about goes at the end of the piston and acts as a one-way valve. When I pump the clutch and hold the pedal down I can (with my hands) press the slave rod back in and the fluid fills back into the master reservoir. This is with the slave unbolted from the trans as it didnt even attempt to move the fork otherwise. Anyone else have an issue like this that cares to tell me how you fixed it?


Kentetsu - I'll give ya 10 bucks to come fix my car lol.

 

never mind

 

Ian, you just voiced the main reason why I don't rebuild, but replace the hydraulics instead. Years ago when most brakes were drum, I got so tired to trying to find my hone, then honing the bores, I decided it was worth the extra cash to buy rebuilt units.

 

Yep, I've never tried rebuilding one either. New ones are cheap enough from Rockauto, that I've never even considered trying to rebuild one.

Also, 10 bucks wouldn't even cover the gas to get my car out of the driveway. But if you bring it to my place, I'll give you free beer and BBQ to make it worth your while....





.

 

As a rule, I rebuild them once. If they leak after that, replace with new. I usually get lucky, about 90% of the time the rebuilt units work fine for a decade. Easy way to save money. The few that need replacement are payed for in the money I saved rebuilding the others.

 

For some reason I keep thinking that I did something wrong. In reality, theres not much to replace when rebuilding so not really sure. I guess I'll just replace it and be done with it.


From memory, the parts inside go like this, from first in, to last in -

Black rubber washer looking deal
Spring, large end in first
clear plastic disc
piston
washer (if it fits, most of the time it doesnt)
snap ring
Then after installed into car you put the rubber boot on.

Its not like I can flip stuff around and have it still attempt to push fluid.

The rebuild kit was I think 18 and a new one form same parts store was ~55.

Hopefully this thread can help someone else down the road.

 

Hold the phone. Whats the difference between an 83 clutch MC and an 85 clutch MC? I ordered an 85 rebuild kit thinking they were the same. Not sure if I have 83 or 85 master... Regardless I'll probably order a new 85 one but was wondering if this is my problem.