Moving spring perch to lower?
12-03-16, 07:18 PM
#1
you know you want this
Thread Starter
Moving spring perch to lower?
Is there any reason I couldn't cut the spring perch off my strut and re weld it lower, to lower my front end? What issues would I run into? I'm already running high rate racing beat springs
12-03-16, 11:16 PM
#3
you know you want this
Thread Starter
Good point on the wheel issue. I d have to run huge offset to make that work. As for the perch itself, I have access to a great fabrication shop, with CNC, water jet, welders, etc...
12-04-16, 01:00 PM
#7
I think he was talking front struts. I am pretty certain they will foul if lowered with any realistic wheel and tyre combo. My s3 in stock form had very little clearance even with the stock wheels and oem spec 205/60/14 size.
Nice set up by the way Shoobs - Ive got those perches in mine too. No problems at all on the rear!
Nice set up by the way Shoobs - Ive got those perches in mine too. No problems at all on the rear!
Trending Topics
12-04-16, 02:21 PM
#9
ohhhh oh oh excuse me then!!!!
so struts wise in the rear, you can build a bracket and run mustang coilovers ('67-'02 iirc?) and they will also not hit the tires
I have a few friends running them.
I just got T3 coilovers so i'll be selling my rear in a few months after I put the coilovers and my new disc rear in (WITH 4.88 LSD!!)
i'll see if I can find the thread with the mustang coilover info and post it here.
For my fronts im just running weld on perches. Ground controls set up.
Believe it or not, that's about as high as they go on the front!!! whoever welded the perch (not me) made them pretty low so I can literally have the front bumper scraping the ground if I desired, Without any air dam lols
I highly recommend the ground control weld on perches. I have a spare set of springs and spring top hats if anyone would like them for a "build you on" weld on perches. all you would need to complete is some doner front suspension of course, metal to weld the perches and then a collar and adjuster. I'd let the springs (ground control brand) and spring top hats (just concave washers essentially with a hole in them for a strut to fit through) for $50 and shipping if anyone is interested. Sorry for the confusion again... I read it and was like WUUTTTTT springs totally fit welded onto the rear in the same spot hahaha
found it! read this guy here:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ssible-975939/
specifically this post:
so struts wise in the rear, you can build a bracket and run mustang coilovers ('67-'02 iirc?) and they will also not hit the tires
I have a few friends running them. I just got T3 coilovers so i'll be selling my rear in a few months after I put the coilovers and my new disc rear in (WITH 4.88 LSD!!)
i'll see if I can find the thread with the mustang coilover info and post it here.
For my fronts im just running weld on perches. Ground controls set up.
Believe it or not, that's about as high as they go on the front!!! whoever welded the perch (not me) made them pretty low so I can literally have the front bumper scraping the ground if I desired, Without any air dam lols
I highly recommend the ground control weld on perches. I have a spare set of springs and spring top hats if anyone would like them for a "build you on" weld on perches. all you would need to complete is some doner front suspension of course, metal to weld the perches and then a collar and adjuster. I'd let the springs (ground control brand) and spring top hats (just concave washers essentially with a hole in them for a strut to fit through) for $50 and shipping if anyone is interested. Sorry for the confusion again... I read it and was like WUUTTTTT springs totally fit welded onto the rear in the same spot hahaha
found it! read this guy here:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ssible-975939/
specifically this post:
Not true.
I race my FB with Camaro strange engineering coil over setup.
AE86 Rears work too. (which is the same suspension conversion BTW)
Everyone says that the shock spud mount can't hold the weight. There is a lot of bracing in this area and the shock has to resist and stop movement either up or down. Some of the FB owners have some fairly stiff valving on their shocks. It's no worse.
My track thrashing puts a fairly large nail in the coffin.
My FB track car uses Strange Engineering shocks set on 12 (highest) and I use 450lb springs on a 2400lb car. There is no deformation in the towers in 2 years.
If you are worried about it, just put a cross brace in that's tied to the floor. (which i don't have, nor do i lose sleep over)
MKII Toyota Supra's also use AE86 conversions with out incident.
I race my FB with Camaro strange engineering coil over setup.
AE86 Rears work too. (which is the same suspension conversion BTW)
Everyone says that the shock spud mount can't hold the weight. There is a lot of bracing in this area and the shock has to resist and stop movement either up or down. Some of the FB owners have some fairly stiff valving on their shocks. It's no worse.
My track thrashing puts a fairly large nail in the coffin.
My FB track car uses Strange Engineering shocks set on 12 (highest) and I use 450lb springs on a 2400lb car. There is no deformation in the towers in 2 years.
If you are worried about it, just put a cross brace in that's tied to the floor. (which i don't have, nor do i lose sleep over)
MKII Toyota Supra's also use AE86 conversions with out incident.
Last edited by Sh00bs; 12-04-16 at 02:26 PM.
12-04-16, 04:15 PM
#10
But you are going to run into clearance issues with 17" wheels. BUT you're gonna run into clearance issues with 17" wheels pretty much regardless of your suspension on these cars.
12-05-16, 03:03 AM
#11
You can. Its advantageous because it allows for more spring travel over just replacing the spring with a stiffer yet shorter one. Be careful the entire front weight (over half the weight of the car) rests on this area. Make your welds are very strong.
But you are going to run into clearance issues with 17" wheels. BUT you're gonna run into clearance issues with 17" wheels pretty much regardless of your suspension on these cars.
But you are going to run into clearance issues with 17" wheels. BUT you're gonna run into clearance issues with 17" wheels pretty much regardless of your suspension on these cars.
next best is just get coil overs with long springs. Ive got 275lb springs up front, and im probably about as low as shoobs, maybe a tad higher. Ive played around with it a fair bit and lower than that can top out on shitty roads.
Cutting the springs is cheap, easy and effective and can be returned to stock.
To be honest i will be impressed if anyone can separate the strut from the perch with out destroying one or the other.
12-05-16, 08:54 AM
#12
Senior Member
If you are going to the effort to weld spring perches on the strut just get some cheap eBay coil over sleeves and convert to 2.5 inch springs. Once you get the 2.5 inch springs on the car with adjustable sleeves you can get any spring rate and any ride height that you want.
12-05-16, 09:39 AM
#13
You run into bumpstop and shock travel issues pretty quick going lower. Assuming RB knew what they were doing when they spec'd the length and weight of the spring it will be too soft to move the perch down - all other aforementioned issues aside. You could raise the strut towers to do it properly, but thats a lot of work and will look most likely look ugly.
next best is just get coil overs with long springs. Ive got 275lb springs up front, and im probably about as low as shoobs, maybe a tad higher. Ive played around with it a fair bit and lower than that can top out on shitty roads.
Cutting the springs is cheap, easy and effective and can be returned to stock.
To be honest i will be impressed if anyone can separate the strut from the perch with out destroying one or the other.
next best is just get coil overs with long springs. Ive got 275lb springs up front, and im probably about as low as shoobs, maybe a tad higher. Ive played around with it a fair bit and lower than that can top out on shitty roads.
Cutting the springs is cheap, easy and effective and can be returned to stock.
To be honest i will be impressed if anyone can separate the strut from the perch with out destroying one or the other.
I'm just saying it can be done. But personally I don't like monkeying around in suspension too much. I don't race and I don't have enough time to calculate rates and figure geometry. LOTS of R&D goes into suspension. And lower can sometimes mean slower.
Don't cut your springs.
12-06-16, 12:36 PM
#14
Senior Member
That's why I said use the oe spring NOT a lowered one.
I'm just saying it can be done. But personally I don't like monkeying around in suspension too much. I don't race and I don't have enough time to calculate rates and figure geometry. LOTS of R&D goes into suspension. And lower can sometimes mean slower.
Don't cut your springs.
I'm just saying it can be done. But personally I don't like monkeying around in suspension too much. I don't race and I don't have enough time to calculate rates and figure geometry. LOTS of R&D goes into suspension. And lower can sometimes mean slower.
Don't cut your springs.
Sure we test and try to find an even better balance for the car all the time, but these cars have been modified and raced for so long that the right path to get these cars to handle is pretty well known.
12-06-16, 01:20 PM
#15
If you are going to the effort to weld spring perches on the strut just get some cheap eBay coil over sleeves and convert to 2.5 inch springs. Once you get the 2.5 inch springs on the car with adjustable sleeves you can get any spring rate and any ride height that you want.
12-06-16, 07:25 PM
#17
you know you want this
Thread Starter
I appreciate the input guys. I think ill get the new wheels first, to see how much space I have to play with. I'm closer to the street/race side of things right now. 1/2 bridgeport, supercharged, holly 650, 3" exhaust, 16" wheels with low profiles, and stiffer rb lowering springs as it sits now.