I'm interested in doing just enough Mods to get my RX-2 near the 14.5 second mark. Since an RX-2 is about 300-400 pounds lighter than a RX-7, tips on getting into the high 14s would probably be sufficient.

Here's the gimmes that I already know about, but haven't done yet:
Full Racing Beat long primary system with RoadRace header

what else could I do without tearing down the engine, i.e. no porting? Assume for now I'm sticking with the stock port 1980 12A engine I've transplanted into the RX-2.

Other mods that I've done are:
Racing Beat air cleaner
electric fan
no emissions what-so-ever
DLIDFIS.

Tranny is an 84 5 spd going into the stock 3.90 rearend.

Any tips or anecdotal evidence is appreciated.

 

If the RX-2 well and truly does weigh about 2000lb plus driver, you shouldn't need much to get there. Maybe 135hp should do the trick. This given that my prior "drag car" ran 15.1, weighed 2400lb with driver, which is about 130 flywheel HP. (Many things were wrong with the combo... but big stupid fun)

Start with the basics: lots of practice at the dragstrip. A car doesn't get a time all by itself, the car is just a tool, and the driver has to know how to use it. Even after 100+ dragstrip passes I still am learning. As for the car, get a header (long primary system is not necessary), decent fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, eliminate fuel return line (if present, sorry not familiar with RX-2). That's parts to put on the car, but throwing parts is only a quarter of the issue. Tuning is key. And that's part of where you'll get your practice... besides learning how best to launch *this* car (watch 60', play with techniques/tire pressure) and learning the best shift points (watch times at 330', 660', and 1/4mi while taking 60' into account IE if you have a extra-shitty launch but try different shift points and the car runs the same ET, you know the new shift points are better), you need to tune the carb and timing (watch MPH). It helps for tuning to have an O2 sensor, you don't need one of the fancy "gauges", just a simple digital volemeter will do. Then again the "gauges" cost a lot less than a decent DVOM and typically react more quickly.

Interesting story. For the longest time I was running 16.3, 16.2 through the muffler. I was shifting at I think 7700-8000, because that was what was working when I ran with open header. I was running up against some guy I'd been talking to in the pits (he also had an RX-7) and I think he blew the launch, because I was gone right from the tree, so instead of winding 3rd out to the finish, I shifted to 4th after the 1000' mark. Car ran a 15.8. I had simply been *assuming* that keeping it in 3rd was better than spending time off the throttle shifting into 4th for the last couple hundred feet, so I'd never even bothered to try. 4 tenths right there, just learning something new.

Incidentally - If you're using the thermal reactor from the '80 engine, and you've removed the emissions rack, do not drive the car until you have a header. The thermal reactor can easily overheat and collapse if the air pump/emissions rack is not present.

 

Vic's RX-2 is into the 10s....but it's also a 13B BP, so maybe that doesn't count...but it's cool to know...


ps. nnaaaaawwwsssssss....

 

thanks for the reply - you covered a lot of things I only briefly thought about.

AFA the Thermal Reactor goes, I'm actually using an 84 exhaust manifold into 2" pipe with the stock 73 pre-silencer and muffler for now. I'll get the RB exhaust when I get the money.

 

do mech 2nd's on the stock nikki

 

or you can do what i am doing
put a t-04 on yer 12a

 

A Sterling Carb'll getcha there.

 

Darth, I have a spare 12a headder. lets talk.