1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Mikuni 44 Install

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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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Question Mikuni 44 Install

Hello all,

I am having some trouble finding out just how to hook up this Mikuni 44 PHH I just bought. Mainly, what vac lines go where on it. I was trying to find a diagram but am not having luck. I also noticed on some pics of other peoples installs the 2 fittings on the front of the intake, i have seen one blocked and the other not, what are they for? Thanks in advance for the help. I cant wait to get this and my RB exhaust system installed but needed to figure this out to bolt it all on at once. I hope it makes a descent difference.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 04:54 PM
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Ditto. I have had a Mikuni for months and never been able to figure out what vacuum lines go where, and if there is anywhere to hook up my oil filler neck vent. Right now I have all of the tubes blocked off, hoping I'm not screwing anything up :P

I actually just got back from a trip to AIM Tuning to get my carb adjusted. I made the 45 minute drive only to find that it was closed At least I got a chance to roam the parking lot and look at the 7's there. Saw some nice 3G's and looked inside a '79 for the first time. The steering wheel looked like it came off a bus lol

Anyway, I have actually found a diagram, but it's only a parts list. If you want i can post it, but it didn't answer much for me.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 06:53 PM
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the two vacuum lines on the bottom are for adjustmen, they are only used for using a vacuum sync device, the top vacuum line goes to a t fitting and connects to the two distributor leading and trailing lines, but i have all my fittings blocked off also, because it is not a good idea to have the vaccum lines hooked up, unless you know how to tune your timing precisely` as to not get detonation,
the only lines you really need run to your mikuni are the gas lines.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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wow! i had no idea they were so simple...i mean i would have thought that there is several lines that would need to be hooked up.....

so really, you guys simply just have these things hooked up more or less just with the gas line and that's it?...

from what i've learned about different carbs, the mikuni 44 is the one i plan to get for my stockport 12a. i hope that with the mikuni/intake, and a full exhaust, emissions removed, and e-fan i can get around 145-150 hp at the flywheel when properly tuned. this is my plan. sound about right?

nick
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 07:42 PM
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So there's nothing from the rats nest and no place to hook up the filler neck hose? If not, does anybody know a good way to fab up a small filter for it?

Edit: I've never dyno'd my car, but with full RB exhaust + headers, intake, and Mikuni carb I'd guess I'm making about 130hp. When I get the carb properly tuned it'll probably be around 140hp. And yeah, the Mikuni's are really easy to set up and I think they're a lot better looking than the big Holley things

Last edited by RustyRotary; Apr 2, 2005 at 07:47 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:00 PM
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Rx7doctor always says with that setup he made 142hp, strangely thats the same setup im most likely going to be running this summer, let me know how you like it... Do you have anypictures of the current progress?
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:06 PM
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From: St Joe MO
You need to hook up the mop lines, or premix. The mop lines hook up to the nipples at the bottom of the carb on the passenger side.

If you hook up the mop lines, you will also need to make an actuating rod, if you don't have one. I made mine from an FC rod, the FB rods are too short.

Last edited by trochoid; Apr 2, 2005 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:15 PM
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Yeah, the OMP lines are the only lines besides fuel that I have hooked up.

Personally, I love the set up. Even with a broken idle adjust screw it runs suprisingly well (I'm ordering a new one soon) and the sound is just beautiful. I got lucky and got the full RB exhaust and the Mikuni on an $80 car, so I didn't have to feel the effects of the price. But that's also why my idle screw is broken and my headers are rusty lol.

I was absolutely amazed with the difference in the car when I strapped on the parts. I didn't think a carb and exhaust could make the performance difference that it did.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:33 PM
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oh thats right, sorry, forgot to mention that, mine came with all that stuff, ya, its pretty simple, personally im having a bit of trouble with the drivability of my car, no power when you punch it under 3500 rpm, and you need to replace the fuel pump, but other than that its pretty good.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:43 PM
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My car bogs down when you punch it from idle, but that's not much of a problem since all that would happen is my tires would spin lol. I think it's getting too much fuel at lower RPM's right now, so when I get it tuned the problem might be fixed. It also cuts out sometimes at high RPMs, especially in 3rd. I lost to an Eclipse because of that. Grrrr...
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 07:33 PM
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the bogging in third is not too much fuel its lack of fuel, you need a good fuel pump, and an adjustable pressure reagulator, i wish it didnt do the whole bogging thing, i plan to put an oxygen sensor and an air fuel gauge in my car so i can see where it has fuel and where it doesnt and tune it accordingly, if anyone with a mikuni has any tips it would be nice, if anyone has had this same problem, thanks
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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From: St Joe MO
You are going to need a wideband to tune it properly that way. Using a single wire O2 sensor will only tell you whether or not you are in stoich, not a good idea for a rotary.

Post any mods you have and the specs in the carb. You can also order a copy of the tuning manual from Wolfcreek Racing. Not very comprehensive, but will give you a general idea of how to tune the carb.

Are you still running the stock fuel pump, and do you have an fpr?
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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From: Las Vegas, by way of Poulsbo, WA
Originally Posted by RustyRotary
So there's nothing from the rats nest and no place to hook up the filler neck hose? If not, does anybody know a good way to fab up a small filter for it?

Edit: I've never dyno'd my car, but with full RB exhaust + headers, intake, and Mikuni carb I'd guess I'm making about 130hp. When I get the carb properly tuned it'll probably be around 140hp. And yeah, the Mikuni's are really easy to set up and I think they're a lot better looking than the big Holley things

If you have aftermarket carbs, and your planning on getting full exhaust, why do you still have your rats nest? Are you trying to pass emissions? Do you use your AC? Do you use your cruise control? Rip that **** outta there. Get your air pump off. You dont need it if you dont have cats.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 10:50 PM
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I took the rats nest out long ago. What I was wondering was if i needed to reinstall part of it for the filler neck vent. I've got lots of white nasty sludge building up in there and I don't like it much.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RustyRotary
I took the rats nest out long ago. What I was wondering was if i needed to reinstall part of it for the filler neck vent. I've got lots of white nasty sludge building up in there and I don't like it much.
My filler vent like alot of others is hooked up to the air filter canister. Just get some hose and a appropriate size nipple and cut a hole in the canister (backside) and bolt the nipple there and plug in your hose.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 11:41 PM
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Just FYI, I have some Mikuni 44 PHH air filter plates, brand new Alumimum, very slick. Id sell. PM me if your intersted. Carl
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