Mikuni 44 Install
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Mikuni 44 Install
Hello all,
I am having some trouble finding out just how to hook up this Mikuni 44 PHH I just bought. Mainly, what vac lines go where on it. I was trying to find a diagram but am not having luck. I also noticed on some pics of other peoples installs the 2 fittings on the front of the intake, i have seen one blocked and the other not, what are they for? Thanks in advance for the help. I cant wait to get this and my RB exhaust system installed but needed to figure this out to bolt it all on at once. I hope it makes a descent difference.
I am having some trouble finding out just how to hook up this Mikuni 44 PHH I just bought. Mainly, what vac lines go where on it. I was trying to find a diagram but am not having luck. I also noticed on some pics of other peoples installs the 2 fittings on the front of the intake, i have seen one blocked and the other not, what are they for? Thanks in advance for the help. I cant wait to get this and my RB exhaust system installed but needed to figure this out to bolt it all on at once. I hope it makes a descent difference.
#2
Just soak it in 2-cycle
iTrader: (2)
Ditto. I have had a Mikuni for months and never been able to figure out what vacuum lines go where, and if there is anywhere to hook up my oil filler neck vent. Right now I have all of the tubes blocked off, hoping I'm not screwing anything up :P
I actually just got back from a trip to AIM Tuning to get my carb adjusted. I made the 45 minute drive only to find that it was closed At least I got a chance to roam the parking lot and look at the 7's there. Saw some nice 3G's and looked inside a '79 for the first time. The steering wheel looked like it came off a bus lol
Anyway, I have actually found a diagram, but it's only a parts list. If you want i can post it, but it didn't answer much for me.
I actually just got back from a trip to AIM Tuning to get my carb adjusted. I made the 45 minute drive only to find that it was closed At least I got a chance to roam the parking lot and look at the 7's there. Saw some nice 3G's and looked inside a '79 for the first time. The steering wheel looked like it came off a bus lol
Anyway, I have actually found a diagram, but it's only a parts list. If you want i can post it, but it didn't answer much for me.
#3
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the two vacuum lines on the bottom are for adjustmen, they are only used for using a vacuum sync device, the top vacuum line goes to a t fitting and connects to the two distributor leading and trailing lines, but i have all my fittings blocked off also, because it is not a good idea to have the vaccum lines hooked up, unless you know how to tune your timing precisely` as to not get detonation,
the only lines you really need run to your mikuni are the gas lines.
the only lines you really need run to your mikuni are the gas lines.
#4
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wow! i had no idea they were so simple...i mean i would have thought that there is several lines that would need to be hooked up.....
so really, you guys simply just have these things hooked up more or less just with the gas line and that's it?...
from what i've learned about different carbs, the mikuni 44 is the one i plan to get for my stockport 12a. i hope that with the mikuni/intake, and a full exhaust, emissions removed, and e-fan i can get around 145-150 hp at the flywheel when properly tuned. this is my plan. sound about right?
nick
so really, you guys simply just have these things hooked up more or less just with the gas line and that's it?...
from what i've learned about different carbs, the mikuni 44 is the one i plan to get for my stockport 12a. i hope that with the mikuni/intake, and a full exhaust, emissions removed, and e-fan i can get around 145-150 hp at the flywheel when properly tuned. this is my plan. sound about right?
nick
#5
Just soak it in 2-cycle
iTrader: (2)
So there's nothing from the rats nest and no place to hook up the filler neck hose? If not, does anybody know a good way to fab up a small filter for it?
Edit: I've never dyno'd my car, but with full RB exhaust + headers, intake, and Mikuni carb I'd guess I'm making about 130hp. When I get the carb properly tuned it'll probably be around 140hp. And yeah, the Mikuni's are really easy to set up and I think they're a lot better looking than the big Holley things
Edit: I've never dyno'd my car, but with full RB exhaust + headers, intake, and Mikuni carb I'd guess I'm making about 130hp. When I get the carb properly tuned it'll probably be around 140hp. And yeah, the Mikuni's are really easy to set up and I think they're a lot better looking than the big Holley things
Last edited by RustyRotary; 04-02-05 at 07:47 PM.
#7
Old Fart Young at Heart
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You need to hook up the mop lines, or premix. The mop lines hook up to the nipples at the bottom of the carb on the passenger side.
If you hook up the mop lines, you will also need to make an actuating rod, if you don't have one. I made mine from an FC rod, the FB rods are too short.
If you hook up the mop lines, you will also need to make an actuating rod, if you don't have one. I made mine from an FC rod, the FB rods are too short.
Last edited by trochoid; 04-02-05 at 08:11 PM.
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#8
Just soak it in 2-cycle
iTrader: (2)
Yeah, the OMP lines are the only lines besides fuel that I have hooked up.
Personally, I love the set up. Even with a broken idle adjust screw it runs suprisingly well (I'm ordering a new one soon) and the sound is just beautiful. I got lucky and got the full RB exhaust and the Mikuni on an $80 car, so I didn't have to feel the effects of the price. But that's also why my idle screw is broken and my headers are rusty lol.
I was absolutely amazed with the difference in the car when I strapped on the parts. I didn't think a carb and exhaust could make the performance difference that it did.
Personally, I love the set up. Even with a broken idle adjust screw it runs suprisingly well (I'm ordering a new one soon) and the sound is just beautiful. I got lucky and got the full RB exhaust and the Mikuni on an $80 car, so I didn't have to feel the effects of the price. But that's also why my idle screw is broken and my headers are rusty lol.
I was absolutely amazed with the difference in the car when I strapped on the parts. I didn't think a carb and exhaust could make the performance difference that it did.
#9
lightened fb
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oh thats right, sorry, forgot to mention that, mine came with all that stuff, ya, its pretty simple, personally im having a bit of trouble with the drivability of my car, no power when you punch it under 3500 rpm, and you need to replace the fuel pump, but other than that its pretty good.
#10
Just soak it in 2-cycle
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My car bogs down when you punch it from idle, but that's not much of a problem since all that would happen is my tires would spin lol. I think it's getting too much fuel at lower RPM's right now, so when I get it tuned the problem might be fixed. It also cuts out sometimes at high RPMs, especially in 3rd. I lost to an Eclipse because of that. Grrrr...
#11
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the bogging in third is not too much fuel its lack of fuel, you need a good fuel pump, and an adjustable pressure reagulator, i wish it didnt do the whole bogging thing, i plan to put an oxygen sensor and an air fuel gauge in my car so i can see where it has fuel and where it doesnt and tune it accordingly, if anyone with a mikuni has any tips it would be nice, if anyone has had this same problem, thanks
#12
Old Fart Young at Heart
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You are going to need a wideband to tune it properly that way. Using a single wire O2 sensor will only tell you whether or not you are in stoich, not a good idea for a rotary.
Post any mods you have and the specs in the carb. You can also order a copy of the tuning manual from Wolfcreek Racing. Not very comprehensive, but will give you a general idea of how to tune the carb.
Are you still running the stock fuel pump, and do you have an fpr?
Post any mods you have and the specs in the carb. You can also order a copy of the tuning manual from Wolfcreek Racing. Not very comprehensive, but will give you a general idea of how to tune the carb.
Are you still running the stock fuel pump, and do you have an fpr?
#13
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Originally Posted by RustyRotary
So there's nothing from the rats nest and no place to hook up the filler neck hose? If not, does anybody know a good way to fab up a small filter for it?
Edit: I've never dyno'd my car, but with full RB exhaust + headers, intake, and Mikuni carb I'd guess I'm making about 130hp. When I get the carb properly tuned it'll probably be around 140hp. And yeah, the Mikuni's are really easy to set up and I think they're a lot better looking than the big Holley things
Edit: I've never dyno'd my car, but with full RB exhaust + headers, intake, and Mikuni carb I'd guess I'm making about 130hp. When I get the carb properly tuned it'll probably be around 140hp. And yeah, the Mikuni's are really easy to set up and I think they're a lot better looking than the big Holley things
If you have aftermarket carbs, and your planning on getting full exhaust, why do you still have your rats nest? Are you trying to pass emissions? Do you use your AC? Do you use your cruise control? Rip that **** outta there. Get your air pump off. You dont need it if you dont have cats.
#15
Originally Posted by RustyRotary
I took the rats nest out long ago. What I was wondering was if i needed to reinstall part of it for the filler neck vent. I've got lots of white nasty sludge building up in there and I don't like it much.
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