No compression in 13B SE motor
04-05-05, 11:02 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: SE PA
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No compression in 13B SE motor
got my motor compression tested today, 14lbs/12 lbs front/rear...i know that is WAAAY BAD, WTF could cause this? i know i had to have blown seals now, but doesnt a blown apex seal make a grinding noise? it just suddenly lost power, then kept losing more and more power, now it wont even start...please help, i dont know what to do next
04-05-05, 11:49 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: -
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My guess is that the seals are carbon-locked, and that you've actually been running on one cylinder/ chamber for a while, and now the second one is locked up. So you have no compression, and the car won't start. This is not uncommon. It has happened to me a couple of times.. here's what I do:
Basically the fix is to do the ATF treatment -- but always use MMO if you can find it. Use a length of plastic tubing to put about 1/4 bottle in each chamber thru the spark plug holes (move the rotor if necessary if it's blocking the holes), then re-install the spark plugs. Spin the motor a few times by using the ignition to spread the MMO around the chamber (be sure to disconnect the s-p wires so the engine doesn't start, because you want the MMO to soak the seals for a while).
Let it sit for an hour or so, and then start it up. There will be a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust for a couple of minutes, then it will clear up. Keep the engine running, and drive it around the neighborhood for 10 - 15 minutes to get the engine warmed up, then you can turn it off again. It should re-start now.
If you have a mechanic do this, it will probably cost $80 - $100. I paid that the first time and observed what he did.. now I do it myself.
Basically the fix is to do the ATF treatment -- but always use MMO if you can find it. Use a length of plastic tubing to put about 1/4 bottle in each chamber thru the spark plug holes (move the rotor if necessary if it's blocking the holes), then re-install the spark plugs. Spin the motor a few times by using the ignition to spread the MMO around the chamber (be sure to disconnect the s-p wires so the engine doesn't start, because you want the MMO to soak the seals for a while).
Let it sit for an hour or so, and then start it up. There will be a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust for a couple of minutes, then it will clear up. Keep the engine running, and drive it around the neighborhood for 10 - 15 minutes to get the engine warmed up, then you can turn it off again. It should re-start now.
If you have a mechanic do this, it will probably cost $80 - $100. I paid that the first time and observed what he did.. now I do it myself.
04-06-05, 12:20 AM
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: SE PA
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i drove it for about 80 miles to get home with only about 1/2 the usual power, i had been driving it pretty hard before that. i HAD to drive it those 80 miles cuz i had to get home, im pretty glad the car made it that far actually. there is also oil on one spk plug when i have checked and switched them, its on the leading rear rotor spark plug, idk what that means if anything...runs and sounds normal other than complete lack of power, and im experiencing massive backfiring, but it hasnt wanted to start for some time now
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sleepydogz
Old School and Other Rotary
8
10-04-15 03:46 PM
KAL797
Test Area 51
0
08-11-15 03:47 PM
