Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

That's bouncing around 1000 RPM.

Dual weber 36 DCD
Holley blue pump and regulator
New cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter
I've adjusted the mixtures screw in, out, up, down, every which way. I can get the idle down to 800 but it get really rough. I'm positive ther is no vacuum leaks. The only vacuum lins on it are the brake booster and one for the dizzy.

Side note. If I'm hesitating when I accelerate at low RPM is my timing too advanced or retarded?

yetterben

Get a timing light set it to spec. Sounds like its running lean. Whats the Fuel pressure at.
Third you have a long journey ahead of you with those carbs. I have never Used duals on a rotary. But i Have tuned them on tr7's Fiats 240z's and the biggest bitch of them all an E-type 6 on that bad boy. DO yourself a favor and get one of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carb-...QQcmdZViewItem

Then get a weber book and aqsk a local vw guy to come help you lol

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Thanks. I will, but I'm impatient! lol

I remedied it by unplugging the dizy line from the advancing actuators. Instantly smoothed out. In the stock system, they went through solenoid switches. I'm guess to advance exacly when the ECU wanted them to. I've also read to just leave them open to atmoshpere, bump the timing a few degrees and forget it. Would it be benificial to hook them back into the ECU harness or just leave them open to the air? AND....did this fix it or just "treat" the symptoms?


Oh, and as for the fuel pressure, I'm not sure. The first regulator I had didn't regulate and broke the guage. Haven't got a new one yet. (I know, I know....bad me.)

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Set the FP to 3.o

My old OER sounded like that. It is running too rich.

Post your jet sizes.

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Honestly, I don't know. It's the Rotary Engineering setup. So it's been jetted for the 12A.

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

where did you read that you leave the vaccume advance ports open on the distributor?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Set your fuel pressure to 4,5 psi, make sure you are adjusting the idle mix and not the secondary cams. Idle screws are the lower ones. Secondaries must be closed and even at idle and open at the same time. If you bought these carbs used, it may help to rebuild them. If your 12A is not ported, the carb may be set to rich. RE ground the numbers off of all their jets so owner's didn't know which jets they used. Holley air corrector jets can be used for the idle jets. Get an air/fuel meter so you can street tune, made a big difference on mine. Be absolutely sure linkage and settings between the 2 carbs is identical.

Order rebuild kits from:

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/products.htm

Part#: 92 1025 05, 2 of them.

Their website has an exploded view of of the 36DCD.

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Got it fixed. The main throttle plate on the front carb wasn't closing all the way. also the carb fuel screens were clogged. I put a filter right before the carbs for now.

My only problem is now it hesitates bad at low to mid throttle and has no pull up high. My timing is set to stock marks. Do I need to put the dizzy advance lines through the solenoid switch? Right now they're just t'd into the brake booster line.

I've looked at that diagram MANY times! lol

Rogue_Wulff

The dizzy advance hoses should be hooked to a venturi vacuum source (also refered to as "Timed" vacuum), not manifold vacuum. The brake booster is manifold vacuum.
The hesitation is likely caused by the timing retarding when you step on the throttle, instead of advancing.
It's been a while since I've messed with this type of weber carb, but most of them have a vacuum port on the base, near the primary barrel. This port shouldn't have much (if any) vacuum at idle, but as you open the throttle, the vacuum should increase.

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

No vacuum ports on these carbs. In some diagrams I've seen there are. And I can see where the would be but there are brass plugs there instead. The only vacuum I hae on this setup is "manifold vacuum" for the booster. I'm leaving it unplugged for now. I just have to ease into it slower. Sucks but for now it'll do. If I bump my dizzy up a couple or 5* will that help?

Rogue_Wulff

With no vacuum advance, you need to set the timing a few degrees advanced for best driveability. How far to advance it is a case of trial and error. 2-10* usually offers a good mix of driveability and performance, without making hot starts too difficult.