Looking for oil change advice
09-13-11, 10:30 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Looking for oil change advice
Hey guys.
I'm planing on changing the oil myself this weekend. I was hoping if anyone has or knows of a good video I could watch and learn from. If not some tip or tricks on here would work. I just want to make sure I don't mess anything up or if there a speical order to go in better for the engine.
Btw I heard K&N oil filter were the best to use and that they are re-useable. Is that true? Or recommended.
Thanks
I'm planing on changing the oil myself this weekend. I was hoping if anyone has or knows of a good video I could watch and learn from. If not some tip or tricks on here would work. I just want to make sure I don't mess anything up or if there a speical order to go in better for the engine.
Btw I heard K&N oil filter were the best to use and that they are re-useable. Is that true? Or recommended.
Thanks
09-13-11, 11:33 PM
#2
Umm changeing oil is simple. Open drain plug dump oil into the container u want it to go into. remove and replace oil filter, put in new oil. I personally use bosch oil filters i dont think oil filters matter too too much as long as u dont use FRAM there junk. K+N Air filters are reusable im not so sure about oil filters.. I would replace it reguardless but thats just me.
09-13-11, 11:40 PM
#3
video? seriously? it's an oil change not an engine rebuild. put something under the drain plug to catch the oil and remove the plug. u should be able to remove the filter by hand. if not, get a filter wrench(turns counter clockwise to remove as does the drain plug).
never used k&n oil filter but doubt they're reusable. that's only for the air filters.
never used k&n oil filter but doubt they're reusable. that's only for the air filters.
09-13-11, 11:57 PM
#4
Easy guys, I'm sure there was a time for each of us where changing the oil was new territory. No oil filter is reusable, you're thinking of the air filters. I use Mobil1 filters and oil. Pricey but I rag on my car pretty hard so it deserves a treat 
First gens are incredibly easy to change the oil on, so it's a good car to start with. If yours is on the stock suspension, you may not even have to use a jack or ramps. The drain plug is up under the front of the oil pan underneath the motor. Oil filter is up close to the firewall on the top driver's side of the motor. And the oil filler neck is on the driver's side of the motor.
First gens are incredibly easy to change the oil on, so it's a good car to start with. If yours is on the stock suspension, you may not even have to use a jack or ramps. The drain plug is up under the front of the oil pan underneath the motor. Oil filter is up close to the firewall on the top driver's side of the motor. And the oil filler neck is on the driver's side of the motor.
09-14-11, 02:02 AM
#6
Hey guys.
I'm planing on changing the oil myself this weekend. I was hoping if anyone has or knows of a good video I could watch and learn from. If not some tip or tricks on here would work. I just want to make sure I don't mess anything up or if there a speical order to go in better for the engine.
Btw I heard K&N oil filter were the best to use and that they are re-useable. Is that true? Or recommended.
Thanks
I'm planing on changing the oil myself this weekend. I was hoping if anyone has or knows of a good video I could watch and learn from. If not some tip or tricks on here would work. I just want to make sure I don't mess anything up or if there a speical order to go in better for the engine.
Btw I heard K&N oil filter were the best to use and that they are re-useable. Is that true? Or recommended.
Thanks
Oil filter goes righty tighty, and lefty loosey...
Oil filter I dunno everybody has there choice for what they run on there car, I have always used fram from autozone and never had any issues, Somebody before my post, also threw out some other names for oil filters as well.
09-14-11, 03:09 AM
#7
Let me take you thru my step-by-step:
1) I use actual Mazda-spec oil filter, but as the guys say, most any brand will do. Factory filter is all of $6 and most of the Big Rebuilders recommend the Mazda filter. Buy 2 so your ready for the next change...
2) buy some NITRIL or LATEX disposable gloves. Box of 100 is about $15 and you will find LOTS of uses for these!! OR: you can buy a package of 2-3 pairs for a few bucks at your auto parts store
3) Tools needed:
-17mm closed-end wrench for the drain bolt (at least, that is the size for my 1980 RX7). Make sure you find out the correct size!
-philips screw driver, med size
-hammer (hang on here...
-paper towels (it will get a bit messy)
-garbage bag, plastic (paper will leak)
-drain pan to catch oil under the car. Buy a proper, low-profile one with a drain tap/valve built in. they are cheap!
-Filter
-Oil: most guys here use/recommend CASTROL GTX 10-30. 5 quarts
4) OK- run car so oil is warm. Just a quick round-the-block will do. Warm oil flows better so quicker, easier drainage. BUT: let it sit a bit on the return as the oil will be HOT coming out and you WILL get oil on your hands as you remove the drain (thus, the gloves). Park on LEVEL GROUND.
5) car off: take philips screwdriver and the hammer and tap a hole into the TOP OF THE FILTER. NOTE!!!- tap a hole OFF CENTER!!!!!!!! If you tap the hole dead-center there is a risk a pressure valve in the filter will be knocked loose inside and the part will fall into the oil tube and plug the filter tower!!
-this action (punching the hole) will allow air INto the filter and permit it to drain the oil out into the block
6) time to drain:
-slide pan under the oil pan - NOTE: you will likely have to LOOSEN the drain plug first as there will not be enough room with the drain pan in place. As guys have said, you don't need to raise the car to do this. Easiest from the PASSENGER side.
-Wrench will loosen the drain plug BUT you will have to undo the final few turns w your fingers - have the PAN nearby!!
-you WILL drop the drain plug into the pan when its removed! we all do
WATCH OIL FLOW OUT OF THE Drain! It will come out under some pressure so be sure to be ready to slide the drain pan accordingly BUT as the oil nears emptying, the flow direction will CHANGE so again, watch where the oil is going or you will be cleaning up a mess! ahhh physics....
-Once oil is drained, REPLACE PLUG BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE. Plug does NOT need to be REAMED IN! Finger tight then a firm turn with the wrench is fine.
7) remove filter: OK, since we punched a hole in it, it should not spill much, if any oil on removal. Ideally the filter should be removable by HAND as these do NOT need to be super-tight. If the filter will not budge - take the philips screwdriver and hammer, and hammer the driver into the SIDE of the filter (thru the center), right to the driver's hilt. Now use this leverage to crank off the filter.
-I would wrap some PAPER TOWELS around the filter tower (the motor piece the filter is screwed on to) so you can catch any excess oil.
8) install new filter:
-FIRST: dab a finger-tip into the oil sitting in the exposed engine filter base and spread a thin bit of oil ONTO THE FILTERS BOTTOM RUBBER GASKET. This will help seal the filter to the tower.
-thread the new filter on by HAND. When the filter base comes firmly in contact with the base - GIVE IT ANOTHER 1/2 A TURN or so. It does NOT need to be reamed on!!!!! AND it will be a snap to change NEXT time....
9) Add oil:
should be 5 quarts but check you OWNERS MANUAL or go on-line and confirm...
10) with hood still open - start the engine and run
-check oil filter for leaking. If it is - just use your hands to tighten it a bit more...
-check drain plug for leakage
11) dispose of old oil with your local dump OR take to a auto shop for disposal
Congrats!
Now - do ALL this again in 3000 miles and you will have a happy rotary! BUT- don't forget, rotaries BURN OIL BY DESIGN so you MUST check your oil regularly (once a week to start) to keep monitoring oil consumption. If you forget - KISS THE ENGINE GOODBYE!!!!!
Then we can walk you thru a rebuild!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
1) I use actual Mazda-spec oil filter, but as the guys say, most any brand will do. Factory filter is all of $6 and most of the Big Rebuilders recommend the Mazda filter. Buy 2 so your ready for the next change...
2) buy some NITRIL or LATEX disposable gloves. Box of 100 is about $15 and you will find LOTS of uses for these!! OR: you can buy a package of 2-3 pairs for a few bucks at your auto parts store
3) Tools needed:
-17mm closed-end wrench for the drain bolt (at least, that is the size for my 1980 RX7). Make sure you find out the correct size!
-philips screw driver, med size
-hammer (hang on here...
-paper towels (it will get a bit messy)
-garbage bag, plastic (paper will leak)
-drain pan to catch oil under the car. Buy a proper, low-profile one with a drain tap/valve built in. they are cheap!
-Filter
-Oil: most guys here use/recommend CASTROL GTX 10-30. 5 quarts
4) OK- run car so oil is warm. Just a quick round-the-block will do. Warm oil flows better so quicker, easier drainage. BUT: let it sit a bit on the return as the oil will be HOT coming out and you WILL get oil on your hands as you remove the drain (thus, the gloves). Park on LEVEL GROUND.
5) car off: take philips screwdriver and the hammer and tap a hole into the TOP OF THE FILTER. NOTE!!!- tap a hole OFF CENTER!!!!!!!! If you tap the hole dead-center there is a risk a pressure valve in the filter will be knocked loose inside and the part will fall into the oil tube and plug the filter tower!!
-this action (punching the hole) will allow air INto the filter and permit it to drain the oil out into the block
6) time to drain:
-slide pan under the oil pan - NOTE: you will likely have to LOOSEN the drain plug first as there will not be enough room with the drain pan in place. As guys have said, you don't need to raise the car to do this. Easiest from the PASSENGER side.
-Wrench will loosen the drain plug BUT you will have to undo the final few turns w your fingers - have the PAN nearby!!
-you WILL drop the drain plug into the pan when its removed! we all do
WATCH OIL FLOW OUT OF THE Drain! It will come out under some pressure so be sure to be ready to slide the drain pan accordingly BUT as the oil nears emptying, the flow direction will CHANGE so again, watch where the oil is going or you will be cleaning up a mess! ahhh physics....-Once oil is drained, REPLACE PLUG BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE. Plug does NOT need to be REAMED IN! Finger tight then a firm turn with the wrench is fine.
7) remove filter: OK, since we punched a hole in it, it should not spill much, if any oil on removal. Ideally the filter should be removable by HAND as these do NOT need to be super-tight. If the filter will not budge - take the philips screwdriver and hammer, and hammer the driver into the SIDE of the filter (thru the center), right to the driver's hilt. Now use this leverage to crank off the filter.
-I would wrap some PAPER TOWELS around the filter tower (the motor piece the filter is screwed on to) so you can catch any excess oil.
8) install new filter:
-FIRST: dab a finger-tip into the oil sitting in the exposed engine filter base and spread a thin bit of oil ONTO THE FILTERS BOTTOM RUBBER GASKET. This will help seal the filter to the tower.
-thread the new filter on by HAND. When the filter base comes firmly in contact with the base - GIVE IT ANOTHER 1/2 A TURN or so. It does NOT need to be reamed on!!!!! AND it will be a snap to change NEXT time....
9) Add oil:
should be 5 quarts but check you OWNERS MANUAL or go on-line and confirm...
10) with hood still open - start the engine and run
-check oil filter for leaking. If it is - just use your hands to tighten it a bit more...
-check drain plug for leakage
11) dispose of old oil with your local dump OR take to a auto shop for disposal
Congrats!
Now - do ALL this again in 3000 miles and you will have a happy rotary! BUT- don't forget, rotaries BURN OIL BY DESIGN so you MUST check your oil regularly (once a week to start) to keep monitoring oil consumption. If you forget - KISS THE ENGINE GOODBYE!!!!!
Then we can walk you thru a rebuild!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Trending Topics
09-14-11, 08:53 AM
#8
You should be able to do this without jacking the car up, unless it has been lowered or has very old springs that has allowed it to settle, so you may have to jack it up, if you do:
DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, GET UNDER THE CAR WITHOUT JACKSTANDS!
DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, GET UNDER THE CAR WITHOUT JACKSTANDS!
09-15-11, 01:46 AM
#11
Let me take you thru my step-by-step:
1) I use actual Mazda-spec oil filter, but as the guys say, most any brand will do. Factory filter is all of $6 and most of the Big Rebuilders recommend the Mazda filter. Buy 2 so your ready for the next change...
2) buy some NITRIL or LATEX disposable gloves. Box of 100 is about $15 and you will find LOTS of uses for these!! OR: you can buy a package of 2-3 pairs for a few bucks at your auto parts store
3) Tools needed:
-17mm closed-end wrench for the drain bolt (at least, that is the size for my 1980 RX7). Make sure you find out the correct size!
-philips screw driver, med size
-hammer (hang on here...
-paper towels (it will get a bit messy)
-garbage bag, plastic (paper will leak)
-drain pan to catch oil under the car. Buy a proper, low-profile one with a drain tap/valve built in. they are cheap!
-Filter
-Oil: most guys here use/recommend CASTROL GTX 10-30. 5 quarts
4) OK- run car so oil is warm. Just a quick round-the-block will do. Warm oil flows better so quicker, easier drainage. BUT: let it sit a bit on the return as the oil will be HOT coming out and you WILL get oil on your hands as you remove the drain (thus, the gloves). Park on LEVEL GROUND.
5) car off: take philips screwdriver and the hammer and tap a hole into the TOP OF THE FILTER. NOTE!!!- tap a hole OFF CENTER!!!!!!!! If you tap the hole dead-center there is a risk a pressure valve in the filter will be knocked loose inside and the part will fall into the oil tube and plug the filter tower!!
-this action (punching the hole) will allow air INto the filter and permit it to drain the oil out into the block
6) time to drain:
-slide pan under the oil pan - NOTE: you will likely have to LOOSEN the drain plug first as there will not be enough room with the drain pan in place. As guys have said, you don't need to raise the car to do this. Easiest from the PASSENGER side.
-Wrench will loosen the drain plug BUT you will have to undo the final few turns w your fingers - have the PAN nearby!!
-you WILL drop the drain plug into the pan when its removed! we all do WATCH OIL FLOW OUT OF THE Drain! It will come out under some pressure so be sure to be ready to slide the drain pan accordingly BUT as the oil nears emptying, the flow direction will CHANGE so again, watch where the oil is going or you will be cleaning up a mess! ahhh physics....
-Once oil is drained, REPLACE PLUG BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE. Plug does NOT need to be REAMED IN! Finger tight then a firm turn with the wrench is fine.
7) remove filter: OK, since we punched a hole in it, it should not spill much, if any oil on removal. Ideally the filter should be removable by HAND as these do NOT need to be super-tight. If the filter will not budge - take the philips screwdriver and hammer, and hammer the driver into the SIDE of the filter (thru the center), right to the driver's hilt. Now use this leverage to crank off the filter.
-I would wrap some PAPER TOWELS around the filter tower (the motor piece the filter is screwed on to) so you can catch any excess oil.
8) install new filter:
-FIRST: dab a finger-tip into the oil sitting in the exposed engine filter base and spread a thin bit of oil ONTO THE FILTERS BOTTOM RUBBER GASKET. This will help seal the filter to the tower.
-thread the new filter on by HAND. When the filter base comes firmly in contact with the base - GIVE IT ANOTHER 1/2 A TURN or so. It does NOT need to be reamed on!!!!! AND it will be a snap to change NEXT time....
9) Add oil:
should be 5 quarts but check you OWNERS MANUAL or go on-line and confirm...
10) with hood still open - start the engine and run
-check oil filter for leaking. If it is - just use your hands to tighten it a bit more...
-check drain plug for leakage
11) dispose of old oil with your local dump OR take to a auto shop for disposal
Congrats!
Now - do ALL this again in 3000 miles and you will have a happy rotary! BUT- don't forget, rotaries BURN OIL BY DESIGN so you MUST check your oil regularly (once a week to start) to keep monitoring oil consumption. If you forget - KISS THE ENGINE GOODBYE!!!!!
Then we can walk you thru a rebuild!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
1) I use actual Mazda-spec oil filter, but as the guys say, most any brand will do. Factory filter is all of $6 and most of the Big Rebuilders recommend the Mazda filter. Buy 2 so your ready for the next change...
2) buy some NITRIL or LATEX disposable gloves. Box of 100 is about $15 and you will find LOTS of uses for these!! OR: you can buy a package of 2-3 pairs for a few bucks at your auto parts store
3) Tools needed:
-17mm closed-end wrench for the drain bolt (at least, that is the size for my 1980 RX7). Make sure you find out the correct size!
-philips screw driver, med size
-hammer (hang on here...
-paper towels (it will get a bit messy)
-garbage bag, plastic (paper will leak)
-drain pan to catch oil under the car. Buy a proper, low-profile one with a drain tap/valve built in. they are cheap!
-Filter
-Oil: most guys here use/recommend CASTROL GTX 10-30. 5 quarts
4) OK- run car so oil is warm. Just a quick round-the-block will do. Warm oil flows better so quicker, easier drainage. BUT: let it sit a bit on the return as the oil will be HOT coming out and you WILL get oil on your hands as you remove the drain (thus, the gloves). Park on LEVEL GROUND.
5) car off: take philips screwdriver and the hammer and tap a hole into the TOP OF THE FILTER. NOTE!!!- tap a hole OFF CENTER!!!!!!!! If you tap the hole dead-center there is a risk a pressure valve in the filter will be knocked loose inside and the part will fall into the oil tube and plug the filter tower!!
-this action (punching the hole) will allow air INto the filter and permit it to drain the oil out into the block
6) time to drain:
-slide pan under the oil pan - NOTE: you will likely have to LOOSEN the drain plug first as there will not be enough room with the drain pan in place. As guys have said, you don't need to raise the car to do this. Easiest from the PASSENGER side.
-Wrench will loosen the drain plug BUT you will have to undo the final few turns w your fingers - have the PAN nearby!!
-you WILL drop the drain plug into the pan when its removed! we all do
WATCH OIL FLOW OUT OF THE Drain! It will come out under some pressure so be sure to be ready to slide the drain pan accordingly BUT as the oil nears emptying, the flow direction will CHANGE so again, watch where the oil is going or you will be cleaning up a mess! ahhh physics....-Once oil is drained, REPLACE PLUG BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE. Plug does NOT need to be REAMED IN! Finger tight then a firm turn with the wrench is fine.
7) remove filter: OK, since we punched a hole in it, it should not spill much, if any oil on removal. Ideally the filter should be removable by HAND as these do NOT need to be super-tight. If the filter will not budge - take the philips screwdriver and hammer, and hammer the driver into the SIDE of the filter (thru the center), right to the driver's hilt. Now use this leverage to crank off the filter.
-I would wrap some PAPER TOWELS around the filter tower (the motor piece the filter is screwed on to) so you can catch any excess oil.
8) install new filter:
-FIRST: dab a finger-tip into the oil sitting in the exposed engine filter base and spread a thin bit of oil ONTO THE FILTERS BOTTOM RUBBER GASKET. This will help seal the filter to the tower.
-thread the new filter on by HAND. When the filter base comes firmly in contact with the base - GIVE IT ANOTHER 1/2 A TURN or so. It does NOT need to be reamed on!!!!! AND it will be a snap to change NEXT time....
9) Add oil:
should be 5 quarts but check you OWNERS MANUAL or go on-line and confirm...
10) with hood still open - start the engine and run
-check oil filter for leaking. If it is - just use your hands to tighten it a bit more...
-check drain plug for leakage
11) dispose of old oil with your local dump OR take to a auto shop for disposal
Congrats!
Now - do ALL this again in 3000 miles and you will have a happy rotary! BUT- don't forget, rotaries BURN OIL BY DESIGN so you MUST check your oil regularly (once a week to start) to keep monitoring oil consumption. If you forget - KISS THE ENGINE GOODBYE!!!!!
Then we can walk you thru a rebuild!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
- Not to many people know of making the hole in the oil filter when draining the oil to let pressure out, and air in, to drain the oil...glad you brought that up...
- Run the car or idle car just a little bit so the oil is thinner and drains out quickly. I used to this, but got tired of doing that extra step, now I drain it and leave and come back in few minutes....lol...
- Thank you for taking the time to post a good procedure for this guy to do his oil change instead of giving him ****...
- Nice write up...
09-15-11, 03:52 AM
#12
we've ALL been there....
3000mi oil change: why?
OIL IS CHEAP - and it does break down, esp with we "sports car" drivers. Best/cheapest thing you can do to enjoy a long engine life. Don't chintz out on this for a few extra thou miles. We are talking about what? $15 worth of oil??? Priceless...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
09-15-11, 10:52 AM
#14
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Best filter for the price is the Mobil 1 filter. Same design as the K&N and a bit cheaper.
Never punched the hole as it seemed to drain out as it sat for a bit while getting it
on stands and pulling the plug, otherwise 7aulls' write up is right on.
Using dyno oil, you need to change it every 3K because 1). it will start getting all
carboned and wornout and 2) it will likely be low by then from being mixed into the fuel.
Never punched the hole as it seemed to drain out as it sat for a bit while getting it
on stands and pulling the plug, otherwise 7aulls' write up is right on.
Using dyno oil, you need to change it every 3K because 1). it will start getting all
carboned and wornout and 2) it will likely be low by then from being mixed into the fuel.
09-15-11, 11:12 PM
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
I can't thank u guys enough. This is so helpful!! Thanks 7aull for the novel I really do appreciate the time u spent to write that up for me. People like u make this website awesome. I'll deff do the oil change soon.
Again thanks for everything
I really do appreciate the time u spent to write that up for me. People like u make this website awesome. I'll deff do the oil change soon. Again thanks for everything
09-18-11, 01:53 PM
#18
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hey guys just wanted to let u know everything went good. Thanks for all the advice. Oh and i didn't drop the nut in the oil pan lol. It was pretty easy, with ur help. I only made a mess when I was putting the old oil in a jug to take to autozone :P
Thanks again
lol. It was pretty easy, with ur help. I only made a mess when I was putting the old oil in a jug to take to autozone :PThanks again
09-19-11, 07:09 PM
#23
09-19-11, 08:04 PM
#24
OK, I need to tell this story, which is true.
The first time I ever changed my oil it was on my '69 bug, it was two years old at the time. I was a freshman in college, U of A, and knew next to nothing about cars.
I didn't have much money back then, so those 3 quarts of motor oil were equal to my food and entertainment budget for the week.
After the second quart, I checked the dip stick and no sign of oil. So I added another half quart and checked again. Still no oil.
That's when I discovered the oil spill under the car.
My excuse? Tucson in 1971.
The first time I ever changed my oil it was on my '69 bug, it was two years old at the time. I was a freshman in college, U of A, and knew next to nothing about cars.
I didn't have much money back then, so those 3 quarts of motor oil were equal to my food and entertainment budget for the week.
After the second quart, I checked the dip stick and no sign of oil. So I added another half quart and checked again. Still no oil.
That's when I discovered the oil spill under the car.
My excuse? Tucson in 1971.