Lupinum

Hey guys!

One of the FAQ pages regarding the nikki simplification has a bunch of broken images. I've searched for updated info with no success.

I am finishing up my 12a track car rebuild and want to make a factory nikki as simple as possible with all the emissions deletes, etc. I also have a Holley 4bbl (no idea if it's rotary tuned or not) on a tubular intake, but read that it's a pita to get working, maybe I should start with that?

Thanks guys!

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

have you seen this one? check out IanS' photo ....

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...i-pics-419907/

iowa_hawk1

iTrader: (4)

http://foxed.ca/rx-7/Carb%20Stripping%20Draft%201.pdf

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Search bing 'stripped Nikki glazedham42' the pics are just right. Color coded as to what stays or goes.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

+1, I printed those out for reference as I did the work.

Lupinum

Exactly what I needed!

Thanks fellas

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

I have two questions.

1. How much is gas mileage affected by stripping the nikki?

2. Is it easier to install the intake first and then the carb or is it easier to install the intake with the nikki already bolted on?

Thanks

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i pass this one because i've honestly never paid attention. most of my Nikki days were before i started collecting data and making notes.

i suppose it's easier doing it all as an assembly, but i personally find it cumbersome. i usually bolted the manifold first and then added the carbie. with a totally stock Nikki, i remember one of the 4 nuts being a bit of a pain in the ***, but when you take some of the stock crap off of it, access to the nut is much better. either way, it's no big deal though.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

I've tried both ways, and IMO it's somewhat easier to get the manifold on and then cope with the carb.

As-an-assembly, your problems revolve around the part being top-heavy and hard to get lined up well before torquing the manifold down, which can make for difficulty aligning the gasket and o-rings (if you're using them). It also means having to get the throttle and carb cables connected with the worst possible access between the carb and the firewall.

Doing the manifold first, then the carb, eliminates those problems while making for others, mainly involving the tough-to-reach left-rear nut & some of the vac lines. To me, those are lesser problems, but I've probably removed and installed my carb a couple dozen times over the years. Kind of second-nature now.

luiml73

iTrader: (1)

Well I already mounted the carb to the mani, so thats the way its going in

What psi should I set my regulator too. 3.5psi? Im running a RB holley now, so its set at 6psi

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

you can start at 3.5, but i think i have run as high as 5 before. so you can see what it likes and adjust accordingly. if my memory serves me, the RB catalog listed a chart that showed recommendations for Nikkis over the years.