1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Line lock, what do i need?

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Old Jul 23, 2002 | 11:04 PM
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From: T.O
Line lock, what do i need?

Ok, i want to set up a line lock system for the front brakes - and need to know what parts i need. It requires a solenoid valve, couplers to interrupt the brake line off the master cylinder if there is room, and wire and a switch to flip it on or not..
this way, when in the bleach box ( burnout box) at the track, you press the brake pedal to floor, flip a switch, let go, and your front brakes are locked on, no rear.. do your burnout, warm the tires, flip the switch, and ready to race.. this makes it much easier on your drivetrain..
all who know anything about this, please answer, and give pointers on setup location, parts etc.. thanks
Daryl
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Old Jul 23, 2002 | 11:35 PM
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Cheap way:

Pressure Pliars ond the rear brake lines.
Remove later.

Only prob is you will only have front brakes down the run.
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Old Jul 23, 2002 | 11:50 PM
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From: T.O
ya, i have heard a vice grips works, but i would like to do it right, depending on cost of solenoid valve
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 12:02 AM
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I think Summit Racing has a whole kit for that
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 12:46 AM
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I hope you don't mean you do a burnout in the box .. . .
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 01:28 AM
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Just learn how to three pedal your burnouts properly.
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 02:01 AM
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Just hit the brake... easy as pie... hard on the back brakes... I can do it easy on dry pavement... let alone wet, or bleached pavement...


Jeff
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 02:05 AM
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Line locks make it easy tho. Not hard on clutch or brakes. Just press and hit the FUC^KING GAS dont get any easier than taht? LOL

I want some too, I got a set of 13" 's Im gonna burn clean the **** off
Its a vengenace thing
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 09:12 AM
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The problem is, the front brake lines are separate all the way to the master cylinder.

That means, you either need two line locks, or you need to plug one of the front brake outlets on the master cylinder, run the other line to the line lock, then run a T from the line lock to send the fluid to both brakes.

If that's not tricky enough, you have to do this AFTER the proportioning valve. Fortunately, only one of the front brake lines goes to the proportioning valve, so your work is at least clear-cut now - you need to put the line lock in the right brake line downstream of the prop valve, then run a T after the line lock to the left brake, and plug off the master cylinder where the left brake used to get its feed.


NOTE - I have not done this yet - I am perfectly happy with three pedaling my burnouts (no "stomp the brake AFTER starting the burnout" for me - that just looks so cheesy IMO) but this is a subject I've given a long hard look to, and probably will do someday.
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 12:08 PM
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ok, well, i have 3 pedaled for a long time, but i wanted to be easier on the drivetrain,.. anyway, thanks peejay, now its out of the question....
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 03:37 PM
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3 pedal or "powerbraking" as we call it here in good ol NJ is hard on everything, rear brakes, clutch, driveshaft, rear end, all that stuff gets beat to hell. ask me how i know.......
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Old Jul 24, 2002 | 07:20 PM
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From: T.O
Talking

i guess im asking...
Summit racing? ya **** for how much $500? lol
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