Leak of Death SmellyCat Clamp
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Leak of Death SmellyCat Clamp
Leak of Death SmellyCat Clamp.
I am so sick of having to add oil every 3-4 trips.
I saw this cheapo wood working clamp at a Chinese tool store.
I positioned the Clamp over the dowel pin leak crack and hooked the other end to the sway bar. Hopefully the sway bar does not move around to much.
Leak report to follow. Its raining and between the oil slick I leave and hydroplaning issues, I have to postpone the test drive. SC
I am so sick of having to add oil every 3-4 trips.
I saw this cheapo wood working clamp at a Chinese tool store.
I positioned the Clamp over the dowel pin leak crack and hooked the other end to the sway bar. Hopefully the sway bar does not move around to much.
Leak report to follow. Its raining and between the oil slick I leave and hydroplaning issues, I have to postpone the test drive. SC
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
Trial one on the Smelly Cat clamp was not a success. the sway bar I attached to was not a sway bar but a tie rod or steering rod. I re-secured the lower end of the clamp with a trampoline spring to the under side brush pan. Just went for ride, No oil spotted left of the mazda on the engine block. oil may be going some where but not were it usually goes.
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Even though the clamp will probably work forever, on a scale of 1to 10, How bad is removing the front cover while the engine is in the car and changing the dowel pin gaskets? My skill level is timing belts, brakes, cv axles and my head gasket changes are 50% successful. Sc
Trending Topics
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
well, first of all i must admit, i have no idea how you were trying to "fix" the leak with a clamp. i can't picture what you're doing based on your photo or explanation. maybe i'm dense ....
anyway, unless you're chasing some other leak and are mislabeling it, you're not going to get to the dowel pin seals by simply removing the front cover. the whole engine has to come apart. go back to the first reply by Jeff20B.
EDIT: i see you snuck another post in there that conceded to Jeff20B. nice.
anyway, unless you're chasing some other leak and are mislabeling it, you're not going to get to the dowel pin seals by simply removing the front cover. the whole engine has to come apart. go back to the first reply by Jeff20B.
EDIT: i see you snuck another post in there that conceded to Jeff20B. nice.
#10
Say hello to Mr.Wankel
iTrader: (7)
From what I see, the OP is applying pressure parallel to the housing, which I don't think would help a dowel leak, but maybe an oil pan leak. For a dowel leak I would presume the pressure would need to be perpendicular to the housings / plates, which I have read of some people doing some things to help with leaks. If the OP does in fact have a dowel leak, a quick search should yield some simple, cheap temporary solutions to try.
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Guys
I have the drill a hole in engine, solvent out old dowel pin gasket, and force permitex in the the space. Book marked. I'm just afraid I'll get the shakes while drilling and mess it up real good.
When I get my Courage up I'll give that a try, Until then I'll investigate and have some fun with less invasive alternatives. I've included a detailed autocad of my design. SC
I have the drill a hole in engine, solvent out old dowel pin gasket, and force permitex in the the space. Book marked. I'm just afraid I'll get the shakes while drilling and mess it up real good.
When I get my Courage up I'll give that a try, Until then I'll investigate and have some fun with less invasive alternatives. I've included a detailed autocad of my design. SC
#12
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
For these types of leaks I've always wondered if dropping the tranny and retorqueing the
tension bolts would help. Like maybe as time wears on the bolts stretch just enough that things start
to leak like dowel pins, coolant seals etc. Maybe retorqueing on reqular basis would prevent all
of this. Of course you have to drop the tranny to do it, so its not entirely convenient.
BTW, the way your clamping that will not help at all I don't think.
tension bolts would help. Like maybe as time wears on the bolts stretch just enough that things start
to leak like dowel pins, coolant seals etc. Maybe retorqueing on reqular basis would prevent all
of this. Of course you have to drop the tranny to do it, so its not entirely convenient.
BTW, the way your clamping that will not help at all I don't think.
#13
Full Member
Thread Starter
My hypothesis is that oil is seeping upward thru the crack between the front cover and rotor housing. By applying pressure downward on that area, the oil stays in the engine....Brilliant, I know....Sc
#15
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 0
Received 131 Likes
on
114 Posts
..screw the clamp..you've got imagination..
#18
Full Member
Thread Starter
Update... drove the black beast all week, The Smelly Clamp is leaking a little. I got some oil collecting in the cavity by the Mazda on the block. still a success, from a drop every two seconds to almost nothing, cost was maybe 4 bucks. sC
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Turblown
Vendor Classifieds
12
10-17-20 03:25 PM
LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
12
10-07-15 08:12 PM
ls1swap
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
12
10-01-15 07:58 PM