1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Last minute tips needed on O-ring change

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Old 03-04-09, 07:17 AM
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Last minute tips needed on O-ring change

I should receive my 4 O-rings from Mazdatrix today and plan on changing them out this weekend due to a constant oil leak that leaves a pool about 2-3 inches wide every night on my concrete.

I do plan on changing out the heater hoses also while I have the cooler off and plan on just getting them from Advance or Autozone (sure hope they have them) once I get them off.

One concern of mine is that a poster said on another thread that you have to get under the car to get ot some of the bolts, is this true? Currently I have no way of doing that where I would feel safe. I do have a jack, but thats about it.



Any other tips would be appreciated!!!
Old 03-04-09, 09:39 AM
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i just use a 10mm wrench to get at the oil cooler nuts. the tough part can be getting the hard line bolted back in. the speedometer cable rubs against your arm and if the banjo bolt is corroded it can turn out slowly and stiffly and its just tedious and annoying. remember to replace all four o-rings. the other two will be found when the oil cooler is out and on the bench. remember to replace teh crush washers on the banjo bolt and remember to oil each o-ring when installing.
Old 03-04-09, 10:42 AM
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^I've never needed to get under the car.
Old 03-04-09, 10:50 AM
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okay thanks, I had not thought about the crush washers or oiling the o-rings. Can you get the crush washers at advance/autozone?

Will I lose a lot of oil when I take it off? Do I leave the filter on the beehive?

What is the hardline bolt?
Old 03-04-09, 10:55 AM
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I'm assuming that you're refering to the 4 beehive o-rings. If so, you can get to all of them from the top, though a couple nuts are tricky and slow to unscrew. No banjo bolts involved. if you're undoing the banjo bolt on the rear iron, you will need 2 new crush washers.
Old 03-04-09, 11:08 AM
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Yes, Im going to do the 4 beehive O-rings, therefore I dont have to worry about those bolts on each side? Will I even need to loosen them?
Old 03-04-09, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 74RX4
^I've never needed to get under the car.
nor have i. i should have specified that all of this can be done from the top
Old 03-04-09, 11:13 AM
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RX4 sent me some pics on another thread and it looks like the oil hardline is loose but Im not sure what all he was doing to his in this pic. I just want to change to orings and hope it stops my oil leak.
Old 03-04-09, 11:15 AM
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Will I lose a lot of oil when I take it off? Do I leave the filter on the beehive?
Old 03-04-09, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by White81Z28
Yes, Im going to do the 4 beehive O-rings, therefore I dont have to worry about those bolts on each side? Will I even need to loosen them?
Crap, I had to look at the FSM and and my spare S3 in the basement. Yes, I do believe you need to undo the upper banjo bolt after you remove the beehive. Then you can get to the last 2 o-rings under the pedistal. Banjo bolt is 23 mm. You will need 2 crush washers, buy 4 just in case.
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Old 03-04-09, 05:50 PM
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^Exactly. The banjo bolt fastens the hard line to the piece between the pedestal and the beehive. Pictures are of a 12a sitting on my shop floor.
Attached Thumbnails Last minute tips needed on O-ring change-boc1.jpg   Last minute tips needed on O-ring change-boc3.jpg  
Old 03-04-09, 08:30 PM
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okay, thanks

Anyone know if I should take the oil filter off, and how much oil will be lost?
Old 03-04-09, 09:53 PM
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i've never removed the filter. just make sure the engine is completely cool. you wont lose any oil really, but you'll loose coolant once you loosen the banjo bolt though so be prepared for that.
Old 03-04-09, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by White81Z28
okay thanks, I had not thought about the crush washers or oiling the o-rings. Can you get the crush washers at advance/autozone?

Will I lose a lot of oil when I take it off? Do I leave the filter on the beehive?

What is the hardline bolt?
I know you can get them at Advance. I work at one. Just bring one up there and they should match it up and take care of it.
Old 03-04-09, 10:04 PM
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i have to add the obvious just cause of experience. don't take this wrong but it's real important. make sure the old ruber is completly cleaned out. thats it, looks like you got it.
Old 03-05-09, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 74RX4
^Exactly. The banjo bolt fastens the hard line to the piece between the pedestal and the beehive. Pictures are of a 12a sitting on my shop floor.
Thanks for clearing up my error with pics. I know I and probably many others appreciate the time you take to post your very informative pics with labels and your posts are quite knowledgeable a well.
Old 03-05-09, 08:51 PM
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Thank you. I've been on the big list, the 1st gen list and here for many years. I've learned a lot from people whom I've never met. The signal to noise ratio is much lower here than it used to be so I enjoy the puzzles more. If I help with what I know (and keep quiet when I don't know) rotary karma should mean a couple less rebuilds in my lifetime, right.
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