Last minute tips needed on O-ring change
 

I should receive my 4 O-rings from Mazdatrix today and plan on changing them out this weekend due to a constant oil leak that leaves a pool about 2-3 inches wide every night on my concrete.

I do plan on changing out the heater hoses also while I have the cooler off and plan on just getting them from Advance or Autozone (sure hope they have them) once I get them off.

One concern of mine is that a poster said on another thread that you have to get under the car to get ot some of the bolts, is this true? Currently I have no way of doing that where I would feel safe. I do have a jack, but thats about it.



Any other tips would be appreciated!!!

i just use a 10mm wrench to get at the oil cooler nuts. the tough part can be getting the hard line bolted back in. the speedometer cable rubs against your arm and if the banjo bolt is corroded it can turn out slowly and stiffly and its just tedious and annoying. remember to replace all four o-rings. the other two will be found when the oil cooler is out and on the bench. remember to replace teh crush washers on the banjo bolt and remember to oil each o-ring when installing.

^I've never needed to get under the car.

okay thanks, I had not thought about the crush washers or oiling the o-rings. Can you get the crush washers at advance/autozone?

Will I lose a lot of oil when I take it off? Do I leave the filter on the beehive?

What is the hardline bolt?

I'm assuming that you're refering to the 4 beehive o-rings. If so, you can get to all of them from the top, though a couple nuts are tricky and slow to unscrew. No banjo bolts involved. if you're undoing the banjo bolt on the rear iron, you will need 2 new crush washers.

Yes, Im going to do the 4 beehive O-rings, therefore I dont have to worry about those bolts on each side? Will I even need to loosen them?

nor have i. i should have specified that all of this can be done from the top

RX4 sent me some pics on another thread and it looks like the oil hardline is loose but Im not sure what all he was doing to his in this pic. I just want to change to orings and hope it stops my oil leak.

Will I lose a lot of oil when I take it off? Do I leave the filter on the beehive?

Crap, :wallbash: I had to look at the FSM and and my spare S3 in the basement. Yes, I do believe you need to undo the upper banjo bolt after you remove the beehive. Then you can get to the last 2 o-rings under the pedistal. Banjo bolt is 23 mm. You will need 2 crush washers, buy 4 just in case.
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^Exactly. The banjo bolt fastens the hard line to the piece between the pedestal and the beehive. Pictures are of a 12a sitting on my shop floor.

okay, thanks

Anyone know if I should take the oil filter off, and how much oil will be lost?

i've never removed the filter. just make sure the engine is completely cool. you wont lose any oil really, but you'll loose coolant once you loosen the banjo bolt though so be prepared for that.

I know you can get them at Advance. I work at one. Just bring one up there and they should match it up and take care of it.

i have to add the obvious just cause of experience. don't take this wrong but it's real important. make sure the old ruber is completly cleaned out. thats it, looks like you got it.

Thanks for clearing up my error with pics. I know I and probably many others appreciate the time you take to post your very informative pics with labels and your posts are quite knowledgeable a well.

Thank you. I've been on the big list, the 1st gen list and here for many years. I've learned a lot from people whom I've never met. The signal to noise ratio is much lower here than it used to be so I enjoy the puzzles more. If I help with what I know (and keep quiet when I don't know) rotary karma should mean a couple less rebuilds in my lifetime, right.