hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Hi all. For those that have followed my threads, sooner or later I'm going to remove my front swaybar so that I can clearance the frame rail for it. It hits on some turns and creates strange handling from time to time. I was too lazy to do it the first time, so now it's going to be extra work for me. Also my braking is occasionally biased towards the side where it's rubbing, so I think this may also be creating this issue.

Anyways, I'm 90% positive I installed the endlinks the wrong way when I installed the swaybar, at least I'm under the impression I preloaded them (incorrectly). My question: what is the correct method for installing the swaybar endlinks? From googling this, my understanding is that I should install the "lower" bushing of the endlink and then lower the car onto ramps so that the suspension can support itself. Since I normally drive the car alone () I should put an equal amount of weight in the drivers seat and then tighten the swaybar endlinks to the correct specification outlined in the FSM. My understanding is that this will give me zero preload on the swaybar and optimal handling.

Also has anyone ever used the Energy Suspension endlinks vs the stock endlinks with the polyurethane bushings supplied with the Racing Beat front bar? Any positive or negative experiences with them?

Unfortunately since I'm installing lowering springs I'm waiting on my Illumina's from Racing Beat so I suppose I should wait so the car is at the correct ride height. Just wanted to figure this out so I can run with it when I'm ready. Thanks!

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You are over thinking this. Just bolt em up and make sure to lube the bushings holding the bar
to the frame so it can move as needed.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Well I guess what I'm getting at is should the endlinks be tightened with the wheels on the ground or in the air? Same goes for where the tension rods connect to the control arms.

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

Installation of Energy endlinks:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sion/17248.pdf
Wheels at ride height.

The only reference I found in the FSM for tightening after a few bounces was the LCR to the crossmember and the tension rod bracket to the frame.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

We never preload sway bars at the shop.

GSLSEforme

Street car/not race car,lot simpler. Take swaybar off(be glad not an SE) clearance radius on bottom of inner fenderwell(posted pics in your suspension thread) paint body where you cut to prevent rust,touch up swaybar for same reason,sure to have paint scraped off from contacting body. If you have the energy suspension endlinks,use them. Threaded end of endlink bolt should face up,endlink assly. should be snug. Put car down on ramps,bounce up/down to settle suspension & tighten end links til bushings are just beginning to bulge,call it good. Recommend you try to do all the work you propose at one time to save yourself double work. Last thing: once all is done & a few miles put on car to settle new springs/ride height,get car aligned as toe will have changed from altering ride height. Good time to learn how to do this yourself,look into some recent threads here about the string method,can be fairly accurate. Good luck,happy handling..

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

You can install the sway bar and links with the car on jack stands, but put them on with the bolts / nuts loose. Put the car on the ground, bounce it a few times, then gradually tighten the hardware going back and forth from R side to L side a few times. Don't overthink it.

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Yea, this is what I did with the rear bar. I had to jack the swaybar up a bit to get the the endlinks on. Tightened the endlinks a little bit, lowered the bar and then tightened everything up.

How important are things like the rear lower links, when tightening in this manner. I couldn't get a torque wrench on them with the car on ramps, so I tightened them as much as I could by hand and then lifted the car to put the full amount of torque on them.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

Same concept applies to the lower links. All suspension components really. The idea is for the suspension to raise and lower on its own without binding or interruption. For street use your way should be fine. Replacing the rubber bushings in the rear links is likely more important, so they're soft and pliable and can twist a hair. Dried hardened or damaged rubber creates other issues, but for commuting to work not a big deal.