Suspension "slaps" "thuds" with road imperfections
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Suspension "slaps" "thuds" with road imperfections
Since the day I've had the car it's pretty much always done this. Got it with 130k now 160k
Suspension now is Ohlins DFV with 13k/9k swift, Racing beat front sway bar stock 94 rear. Did the same thing on stock bilsteins and konis with racing beat springs.
All stock control arms appear to be in good shape nothing is loose.
18" wheels 245 front 265 rear pilot super sports
It's very smooth over bumps and the kind of road imperfections that most sports cars struggle with, but over little bumps (like lane markers or cracks) there is loud / annoying noise and jolts.
I've driven another FD with Zeal coilovers and it's not as smooth but has much less of this problem. That car was on 17s with 265s all around, again stock control arms in good shape.
Is this just the nature of the car of with 18 inch wheels? I've been thinking about going to 17s anyway. I haven't driven other fds with 18s....
Suspension now is Ohlins DFV with 13k/9k swift, Racing beat front sway bar stock 94 rear. Did the same thing on stock bilsteins and konis with racing beat springs.
All stock control arms appear to be in good shape nothing is loose.
18" wheels 245 front 265 rear pilot super sports
It's very smooth over bumps and the kind of road imperfections that most sports cars struggle with, but over little bumps (like lane markers or cracks) there is loud / annoying noise and jolts.
I've driven another FD with Zeal coilovers and it's not as smooth but has much less of this problem. That car was on 17s with 265s all around, again stock control arms in good shape.
Is this just the nature of the car of with 18 inch wheels? I've been thinking about going to 17s anyway. I haven't driven other fds with 18s....
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#6
has a Full Member
It sounds like you are describing noise associated with running wide low profile tires. If there is a problem in the suspension it will be a pretty apparent metallic knocking. FD's were built back when minimal sound deadening was used, and was originally designed with 50 series sidewalls. Changing to wide 18's would certainly exacerbate tire slap over small road imperfections. Maybe try to borrow some stock wheels to see if the problem is relieved. If so I would try 17's with a 40 series sidewall. I actually prefer the look of 17's with stock body anyway. Good luck.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It sounds like you are describing noise associated with running wide low profile tires. If there is a problem in the suspension it will be a pretty apparent metallic knocking. FD's were built back when minimal sound deadening was used, and was originally designed with 50 series sidewalls. Changing to wide 18's would certainly exacerbate tire slap over small road imperfections. Maybe try to borrow some stock wheels to see if the problem is relieved. If so I would try 17's with a 40 series sidewall. I actually prefer the look of 17's with stock body anyway. Good luck.
It's not a metallic noise. Just a hardness and interior noise from specific road issue. Potholes, lane markers, and gaps or slight steps up really bang the car. Everything else is exceptional with the ohlins
My sw20 mr2 has 17s with less tire profile and doesn't do this at all, yet gets upset over things the rx7 glides over (big bumps / undulations)
Frustrating!
Trending Topics
#8
has a Full Member
That's what i've been assuming for a while :/
It's not a metallic noise. Just a hardness and interior noise from specific road issue. Potholes, lane markers, and gaps or slight steps up really bang the car. Everything else is exceptional with the ohlins
My sw20 mr2 has 17s with less tire profile and doesn't do this at all, yet gets upset over things the rx7 glides over (big bumps / undulations)
Frustrating!
It's not a metallic noise. Just a hardness and interior noise from specific road issue. Potholes, lane markers, and gaps or slight steps up really bang the car. Everything else is exceptional with the ohlins
My sw20 mr2 has 17s with less tire profile and doesn't do this at all, yet gets upset over things the rx7 glides over (big bumps / undulations)
Frustrating!
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I used to have an SW20 turbo. They are extremely solidly built and vaultlike for their size. Just feel how heavy the front hood is as an example. I do think it would be worth it for you to change all the rubber bushings in the car. At 160k and 25+ years old, it is probable that they have degraded to the point where they are transmitting more NVH into the car than originally intended. If you are attached to your 18s I'd try that first.
Which bushings are most likely worn? They all look pretty good. The previous owner may have changed a few here and there.
The issue is probably 75% in the back btw
#10
SEMI-PRO
iTrader: (2)
Sounds like the tire noise that's typical of high performance tires.
Time for an education.
http://scholarworks.rit.edu/cgi/view...context=theses
Time for an education.
http://scholarworks.rit.edu/cgi/view...context=theses
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sounds like the tire noise that's typical of high performance tires.
Time for an education.
http://scholarworks.rit.edu/cgi/view...context=theses
Time for an education.
http://scholarworks.rit.edu/cgi/view...context=theses
And we use these tires on many, many sports cars at my shop and I've yet to hear / feel this.
#12
Mine makes similar noise in the rear and I have pretty much new Ohlins DFVs, Powerflex bushings front and rear, new pillowballs, etc. I think the noise over those types of bumps is simply the lack of weight in the rear of the car and the lack of sound deadening. My car has always had this noise even before I swapped everything out. I wouldn't worry about it if you are sure everything in your suspension system is up to spec.
#13
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
You can't tell by looking, you have to physically manipulate them. You can try first with everything on the car by jacking it up and wiggling parts. Next is to disassemble and wiggle individual bushes. My FD has only 60k and the only bushes that were good were the trailing arms. All the pillows were shot. Since they are rather expensive, my guess is the PO may not have replaced them. The differential bushes are a pain to get to, so those may be original as well, but those don't see the wear like the pillows. That said, those are generally recommended to be replaced/upgraded regardless of condition to improve handling.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You can't tell by looking, you have to physically manipulate them. You can try first with everything on the car by jacking it up and wiggling parts. Next is to disassemble and wiggle individual bushes. My FD has only 60k and the only bushes that were good were the trailing arms. All the pillows were shot. Since they are rather expensive, my guess is the PO may not have replaced them. The differential bushes are a pain to get to, so those may be original as well, but those don't see the wear like the pillows. That said, those are generally recommended to be replaced/upgraded regardless of condition to improve handling.
I do know what i'm doing here btw (I work on million dollar cars every day and have been in the automotive industry for 14 years!)
Maybe i'll just go in and replace everything,
The diff mounts are newer - replaced the diff with low millage JDM unit that had nice bushings.
#15
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Also check the rear mounting bolts holes of the power plant frame to see if they are cracked.
Mine were cracked and the front of the differential moving against the power plant frame as well as the transmission tunnel brace that goes through the power plant frame hitting it over bumps in the rear was loud and annoying over small sharp impacts like you describe.
Mine were cracked and the front of the differential moving against the power plant frame as well as the transmission tunnel brace that goes through the power plant frame hitting it over bumps in the rear was loud and annoying over small sharp impacts like you describe.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Also check the rear mounting bolts holes of the power plant frame to see if they are cracked.
Mine were cracked and the front of the differential moving against the power plant frame as well as the transmission tunnel brace that goes through the power plant frame hitting it over bumps in the rear was loud and annoying over small sharp impacts like you describe.
Mine were cracked and the front of the differential moving against the power plant frame as well as the transmission tunnel brace that goes through the power plant frame hitting it over bumps in the rear was loud and annoying over small sharp impacts like you describe.
But it did the same things with the stock powerplant
#17
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Check that your coilovers are preloaded. Jack car up and make sure the springs are tight.
Since the day I've had the car it's pretty much always done this. Got it with 130k now 160k
Suspension now is Ohlins DFV with 13k/9k swift, Racing beat front sway bar stock 94 rear. Did the same thing on stock bilsteins and konis with racing beat springs.
All stock control arms appear to be in good shape nothing is loose.
18" wheels 245 front 265 rear pilot super sports
It's very smooth over bumps and the kind of road imperfections that most sports cars struggle with, but over little bumps (like lane markers or cracks) there is loud / annoying noise and jolts.
I've driven another FD with Zeal coilovers and it's not as smooth but has much less of this problem. That car was on 17s with 265s all around, again stock control arms in good shape.
Is this just the nature of the car of with 18 inch wheels? I've been thinking about going to 17s anyway. I haven't driven other fds with 18s....
Suspension now is Ohlins DFV with 13k/9k swift, Racing beat front sway bar stock 94 rear. Did the same thing on stock bilsteins and konis with racing beat springs.
All stock control arms appear to be in good shape nothing is loose.
18" wheels 245 front 265 rear pilot super sports
It's very smooth over bumps and the kind of road imperfections that most sports cars struggle with, but over little bumps (like lane markers or cracks) there is loud / annoying noise and jolts.
I've driven another FD with Zeal coilovers and it's not as smooth but has much less of this problem. That car was on 17s with 265s all around, again stock control arms in good shape.
Is this just the nature of the car of with 18 inch wheels? I've been thinking about going to 17s anyway. I haven't driven other fds with 18s....
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#21
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Put a video up here from inside the cabin with the noise happening?
If it is a rubbery whack sound it could just be the low profile tire.
It could be anything else too though.
I have had pillow ***** with no slop make this noise.
Basically, I have found that if a pillow ball moves freely with very little friction, it is shot and will make noise.
If it is a rubbery whack sound it could just be the low profile tire.
It could be anything else too though.
I have had pillow ***** with no slop make this noise.
Basically, I have found that if a pillow ball moves freely with very little friction, it is shot and will make noise.
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Put a video up here from inside the cabin with the noise happening?
If it is a rubbery whack sound it could just be the low profile tire.
It could be anything else too though.
I have had pillow ***** with no slop make this noise.
Basically, I have found that if a pillow ball moves freely with very little friction, it is shot and will make noise.
If it is a rubbery whack sound it could just be the low profile tire.
It could be anything else too though.
I have had pillow ***** with no slop make this noise.
Basically, I have found that if a pillow ball moves freely with very little friction, it is shot and will make noise.
#24
Racecar - Formula 2000
I think you are looking for a non-existent solution as long as you are using wide low-profile tires (18" 245 & 265) on a very light, minimally-sound-insulated car with performance tuned suspension and bushings.
The logical solution, as others have mentioned, is higher-profile tires on smaller wheels.
That is one of the reasons I kept my stock wheels with 225/50R16 tires - I wanted to drive the 7 on trips w/o getting beat to death. The other reason is pot-holed roads in NE Ohio - 45 or 50 series is as low as I think is practical around here.
The logical solution, as others have mentioned, is higher-profile tires on smaller wheels.
That is one of the reasons I kept my stock wheels with 225/50R16 tires - I wanted to drive the 7 on trips w/o getting beat to death. The other reason is pot-holed roads in NE Ohio - 45 or 50 series is as low as I think is practical around here.
Last edited by DaveW; 12-06-16 at 12:29 PM.
#25
Racecar - Formula 2000
BTW, when I was working with OE's on air suspension and tires, the rule of thumb on ride noise and harshness issues was to look at, in approximate order of importance:
1. tires and tire pressure
2. suspension friction
3. damping (shocks) and the damping present in the air springs
4. suspension bushings
5. everything else
1. tires and tire pressure
2. suspension friction
3. damping (shocks) and the damping present in the air springs
4. suspension bushings
5. everything else
Last edited by DaveW; 12-06-16 at 07:00 PM.