im gonna need some enlightenment
09-15-10, 08:53 PM
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im gonna need some enlightenment
ok ive youve seen any of my other posts you know i have a water seal problem. Anyways i was talking to my cousin about it(hes a rotary beast), and he was telling me that many other people (All happen to be Puerto Ricans lol) would put tomato sauce inside the radiator with the water... yes tomato sauce im not kidding. well it supposedly seals everything up for awhile, he was telling me that other people with the same problem would simply put tomato souce/ ketchup, and then do a drag and then pour some more in... is this absurd or is there some truth in this, i may or may not do it, but i really just want to know???
09-16-10, 11:10 AM
#4
Waffles - hmmm good
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Its harmless, gooey and just may help seal temporarily a small leak.
Of course if you over cook it, it won't taste good anymore
So, I wonder if your car ends up smelling like an italian restaurant or do you need
to add garlic in there too.
In before it gets moved or locked
Of course if you over cook it, it won't taste good anymore
So, I wonder if your car ends up smelling like an italian restaurant or do you need
to add garlic in there too.
In before it gets moved or locked
09-16-10, 01:29 PM
#5
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Skip the Italian method, and go for some Alumaseal instead. I installed a used motor, which turned out to have blown coolant seals. Huge clouds of white smoke out of the exhaust just idling in the driveway.
After much research which failed to give me any options I liked, I chose to try the Alumaseal. My decision was based on the fact that it uses aluminum, rather than copper or brass like most others. So, if any of the product made it into the combustion process, it would simply burn up rather than causing detrimental damage to moving parts.
I added it to the radiator, and after 20-30 minutes of idling the problem was 90% resolved. After a 30 minute cruise, the problem was completely eliminated.
That was slightly over 20,000 miles ago, and still no problems. No other side effects have been observed either, like clogged heater core, gunk throughout the system, etc. I am completely satisfied with the repair.
No, of course the purists will say that only a rebuild will fix this issue, and that this is a "band aid" fix, etc. But I understand that not everyone is in a position to drop a couple grand on rebuilding a motor. Or even few hundred if you just open it up to replace the seals. I race in a class that demands a completely stock motor, so when the original died at 213,000 miles I just threw in a junkyard motor. Which I will do again when that one dies. But so far, the repair is good, I have zero symptoms, and have taken the car from Michigan to North Carolina twice now for DGRR. The last time I went, I put 2,500 miles on it over five days.
So, let the flaming begin. lol.
.
After much research which failed to give me any options I liked, I chose to try the Alumaseal. My decision was based on the fact that it uses aluminum, rather than copper or brass like most others. So, if any of the product made it into the combustion process, it would simply burn up rather than causing detrimental damage to moving parts.
I added it to the radiator, and after 20-30 minutes of idling the problem was 90% resolved. After a 30 minute cruise, the problem was completely eliminated.
That was slightly over 20,000 miles ago, and still no problems. No other side effects have been observed either, like clogged heater core, gunk throughout the system, etc. I am completely satisfied with the repair.
No, of course the purists will say that only a rebuild will fix this issue, and that this is a "band aid" fix, etc. But I understand that not everyone is in a position to drop a couple grand on rebuilding a motor. Or even few hundred if you just open it up to replace the seals. I race in a class that demands a completely stock motor, so when the original died at 213,000 miles I just threw in a junkyard motor. Which I will do again when that one dies. But so far, the repair is good, I have zero symptoms, and have taken the car from Michigan to North Carolina twice now for DGRR. The last time I went, I put 2,500 miles on it over five days.
So, let the flaming begin. lol.
.
09-22-10, 12:03 AM
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Skip the Italian method, and go for some Alumaseal instead. I installed a used motor, which turned out to have blown coolant seals. Huge clouds of white smoke out of the exhaust just idling in the driveway.
After much research which failed to give me any options I liked, I chose to try the Alumaseal. My decision was based on the fact that it uses aluminum, rather than copper or brass like most others. So, if any of the product made it into the combustion process, it would simply burn up rather than causing detrimental damage to moving parts.
I added it to the radiator, and after 20-30 minutes of idling the problem was 90% resolved. After a 30 minute cruise, the problem was completely eliminated.
That was slightly over 20,000 miles ago, and still no problems. No other side effects have been observed either, like clogged heater core, gunk throughout the system, etc. I am completely satisfied with the repair.
No, of course the purists will say that only a rebuild will fix this issue, and that this is a "band aid" fix, etc. But I understand that not everyone is in a position to drop a couple grand on rebuilding a motor. Or even few hundred if you just open it up to replace the seals. I race in a class that demands a completely stock motor, so when the original died at 213,000 miles I just threw in a junkyard motor. Which I will do again when that one dies. But so far, the repair is good, I have zero symptoms, and have taken the car from Michigan to North Carolina twice now for DGRR. The last time I went, I put 2,500 miles on it over five days.
So, let the flaming begin. lol.
.
After much research which failed to give me any options I liked, I chose to try the Alumaseal. My decision was based on the fact that it uses aluminum, rather than copper or brass like most others. So, if any of the product made it into the combustion process, it would simply burn up rather than causing detrimental damage to moving parts.
I added it to the radiator, and after 20-30 minutes of idling the problem was 90% resolved. After a 30 minute cruise, the problem was completely eliminated.
That was slightly over 20,000 miles ago, and still no problems. No other side effects have been observed either, like clogged heater core, gunk throughout the system, etc. I am completely satisfied with the repair.
No, of course the purists will say that only a rebuild will fix this issue, and that this is a "band aid" fix, etc. But I understand that not everyone is in a position to drop a couple grand on rebuilding a motor. Or even few hundred if you just open it up to replace the seals. I race in a class that demands a completely stock motor, so when the original died at 213,000 miles I just threw in a junkyard motor. Which I will do again when that one dies. But so far, the repair is good, I have zero symptoms, and have taken the car from Michigan to North Carolina twice now for DGRR. The last time I went, I put 2,500 miles on it over five days.
So, let the flaming begin. lol.
.
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09-22-10, 02:17 PM
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09-22-10, 02:21 PM
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Well GM Radiator Pellets were made of Ginger, because it would get in the cracks, swell up and then seal it... But I doubt there is enough fibers in the tomato sauce to make it work, make one hell of a pasta sauce though! mmm, secret sauce!
09-22-10, 06:01 PM
#16
Glad I opened this thread. Never knew you could fix a rad leak with tomato sauce. And yeah, paste might be even better.
No doubt the fibers in the sauce (paste) are just perfect for packing into those fine leaks in the system. And as we all know, cooking that sauce only makes it better. Those Puerto Ricans know whereof they speak when it comes to rotaries.
Very cool, thanks Ken. Now I can't wait for the rad to leak to give it a try.
No doubt the fibers in the sauce (paste) are just perfect for packing into those fine leaks in the system. And as we all know, cooking that sauce only makes it better. Those Puerto Ricans know whereof they speak when it comes to rotaries.
Very cool, thanks Ken. Now I can't wait for the rad to leak to give it a try.
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