I want a better limited slip
#3
I have not tried to rebuild. My current diff clunks when I lift on/off throttle, when I jack the rear in the air I feel like I can move the wheel way to far before it contacts, not sure how to say it, maybe free play. It also spins one tire more then then other.
Any links or books that could walk me through a rebuild?
being honest I have tools and average to below average mechanic ability.
Any links or books that could walk me through a rebuild?
being honest I have tools and average to below average mechanic ability.
#4
premix, for f's sake
iTrader: (6)
there should be an archived thread or 2 on it. Lemme see if I can dig'em up
*EDIT*
here ya go, overall the whole process is pretty strait forward, most of the hard part is measuring and doin math
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch...g-soon-717591/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch...ur-lsd-711948/
*EDIT*
here ya go, overall the whole process is pretty strait forward, most of the hard part is measuring and doin math
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch...g-soon-717591/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch...ur-lsd-711948/
#8
I know when I had the drive shaft made I got serviceable u joints added on both ends. How would I check the u joints and know they are bad? it does clunk, among other clunks its tough to tell what clunk is what. LOL I do have the upgraded axles if that helps figure out what 3.9 diff I have. If I recall right the miata LSD will fit inside the FB differential
#11
the name is Stan
iTrader: (1)
Those archived threads are awesome, but reading them makes my head spin.
Swapping a donor or rebuilding seems the most economical route.
I'm interested in the Tosen differentials at Mazdatrix.
Torque Sensing. No clutch plates to rattle in these $1005
How do you test a LSD without tearing it down?
I have an -SE rear taken from a donor car which I have no driving history. I have it on the bench now.
If I grab one of the disks and rotate the pinion, the loose side will turn freely.
Shouldn't the side I'm holding receive the power since its the side with traction?
Swapping a donor or rebuilding seems the most economical route.
I'm interested in the Tosen differentials at Mazdatrix.
Torque Sensing. No clutch plates to rattle in these $1005
How do you test a LSD without tearing it down?
I have an -SE rear taken from a donor car which I have no driving history. I have it on the bench now.
If I grab one of the disks and rotate the pinion, the loose side will turn freely.
Shouldn't the side I'm holding receive the power since its the side with traction?
#12
premix, for f's sake
iTrader: (6)
the traditional test of a LSD's condition, is to test for the torque break away, which is done while its still inside the axle housing and attached to the car. You pretty much jack up 1 side of the axle, while leaving the other side on the ground, and leave the transmission in gear. Then an adapter is attached to the hub to allow a beam style torque wrench to be positioned in the center. Apply force w. the torque wrench until the hub begins to turn and note the torque reading. I dont remember what the break away spec is for 1st gens, but I want to say that is 65-80ft-lbs.
Clutch style LSD's dont transmit the power away from the spinning wheel and to the side with traction, but rather attempts to keep both sides marginally tied together to an extent, but once it begins to slip, more power will get sent towards the easiest path i.e the spinning tire. After all, clutch style LSD's are still a traditional differential, they just have a stack of plates under a pre-loaded pressure that actively try to keep the axles at the same speed.
By the sounds of it, your LSD is tired and worn out, but the only real way to find out, is to pull it apart, inspect and measure the parts inside and compare them to the factory allowable tolerances
Clutch style LSD's dont transmit the power away from the spinning wheel and to the side with traction, but rather attempts to keep both sides marginally tied together to an extent, but once it begins to slip, more power will get sent towards the easiest path i.e the spinning tire. After all, clutch style LSD's are still a traditional differential, they just have a stack of plates under a pre-loaded pressure that actively try to keep the axles at the same speed.
By the sounds of it, your LSD is tired and worn out, but the only real way to find out, is to pull it apart, inspect and measure the parts inside and compare them to the factory allowable tolerances
#15
premix, for f's sake
iTrader: (6)
there are a few possibilities.
1. worn U-joints in the drive shaft
2. if you reference some of the pictures in the links ive posted. there could be excessive wear in either the "x" cross piece that the spider gears ride on or the ramps on the LSD case halves
(see post 10 by J9FD3S in the "LSD tear down link". He reference to issues that come about from excessive wear on the ramps, causing clunks on decel or throttle lift)
3. improper backlash or clearence, and/or pinion depth between the pinion and the ring gear (usually exhibits itself as a whine or growl that is speed or RPM dependant tho)
1. worn U-joints in the drive shaft
2. if you reference some of the pictures in the links ive posted. there could be excessive wear in either the "x" cross piece that the spider gears ride on or the ramps on the LSD case halves
(see post 10 by J9FD3S in the "LSD tear down link". He reference to issues that come about from excessive wear on the ramps, causing clunks on decel or throttle lift)
3. improper backlash or clearence, and/or pinion depth between the pinion and the ring gear (usually exhibits itself as a whine or growl that is speed or RPM dependant tho)