Okay so yesterday I finished up mostly everything. Removed rats nest, and that I know of everything is quite fine, since it is running and idles.

Also when I purchased it the shutter valve was already off, but the shutter is still in the intake, doesn't seem to affect anything. But there is no cover plate for where the valve was. Should I fab a cover plate? I didn't see that it connected to the intake. Instead it was connected to the rats nest and that was where it gained the vacuum for such.

So everything is fine except for

THE IDLE

Well Pete, I got it to idle without the choke. So score one for the Sterling carb... although I won't pass emissions for ****.

Now I had to massage the pedal and keep it above 2000 rpm so it would not die. When it was brought up to temperature it would idle at 3000 rpm and then it would occasionally idle at 4000 rpm after raising it higher than 5000 rpm. So natuarally I have to somehow fix that. I remember Jason telling me that it would have a high idle, but that was if I had the fast idle attatched, and I don't. I only have the throttle cable hooked up.

I just need to play with the screws right now, right? Anyone experienced with mixture like this? I don't want to blow it up... although I've done quite well for a first time mechanic so far. I didn't really think I would be able to get it running within the week. I started on Sunday. (yes, I've owned it since october and I seriously started it on sunday. Even though I had Jason over in the beginning of january to tell me that the rats nest needed to be worked on so that the carb would be okey dokey.)

yeah, and grammar is a bitch. Copy and paste to other rotary forums here I go.

 

I have the same problem it idles only when the car is cold but at around 1,000 - 1,500 RPM, then when it warms up it becomes unstable and sounds different and it wont go unless I have my foot almost all the way on the gas which sux but I just closed off all the vacuum openings and I will try and adjust my carb... Did you try to change the Dizzy at all like move it a few degrees up or down?

 

it idles, just at 3000

 

3000 isn't an idle speed, 700-800 is an idle speed.

I believe what you meant to say is the slowest you can get it to run smoothly is 3000 rpm

 

I was always taught that the definition of idle is the car running on its own. *shrugs*

 

Yes the car runs smoothly at around 3000RMP the cause of that is???????

thats all I want to know

Thank you

 

Hell if I know. Stan says I need to ensure a better seal on my ACV block off plate, he's almost positive that's contributing to it.

I'm going to have to go try out my idle screws on the carb, I guess.

I'm hungry, too.

 

Make sure you block the ports where the shutter valve went. Make sure the actual shutter butterfly is secured open since theres nothing to keep it open now. Turn the idle mixture screw in till it GENTLY bottoms. Dont overtighten it or youll ruin the needle. Then back it our 3 1/2 turns, thats the bench setting and is usually really close. Within 1/2 turn or so. Dont mess with the mixture again till you get the idle speed right.


Oh and whats that in your avatar? Its always puzzled me.

 

Thanks for chiming in Carl. I'll be sure to play with all of that soon. Do you know of anyone that has a shutter valve block off or should I just JBweld it? The area is so small a friend suggested JBweld, but it'd suck if it got sucked in there.

Oh and my avatar is a White Mage I made from Final Fantasy V, a video game for the Super Nintendo. If you chilled in the lounge a while ago I got into a nerdy avatar battle with Kori Yahi.

 

i have a manifold that i jbwelded, removed the whole valve and butterfly. I miss the 12a sometimes...

 

Yea JB should be ok. Make sure the area is clean so it sticks well. Even safer would be to find a correct size bolt and jb it in. That'll never get sucked in.

Ok, thanks for the explanation.

 

None of the screws or adjustments on the carb could ever possibly make your car idle at 3000. I know, I've been there.

You've got a major freakin' vacuum leak I'd imagine. Remove the carb, check the vacuum holes for the shutter valve and make sure you've plugged 'em well. Make sure the butterfly is wide open and stuck there. When you put the black vacuum spacer back on, just cap everyting on it as a start. You can reconnect your vac advance once you get it idling. Just make sure that you don't have any vacuum leaks on the manifold or the spacer. Then make sure you've got a gasket between the spacer and the carb and it's sealed well. That should get you idling at a proper speed, or at least a helluva lot closer.

Make sure your throttle linkage is fully shut (should be, but my throttle return spring got hooked in the wrong place and caused a high idle 'cause it wouldn't close the butterflies).

THEN, when you're within 200rpm of a thousand, you can play with the screws.

Jon

 

Also, make sure that your gasket between the spacer and the carb doesn't block the holes in the spacer or carb. Make sure the little holes on the manifold, spacer and carb don't get blocked.

 

I think it would help if you can also do some research on your own.


_______________________________________________
Computer Controlled Rotary Valve - The New Gerber Rotary Valve Product Catalog

 

^DAMN!! this noob's gots some ***** LOL!!

 

And a year behind no less. lol. I opened this thread thinking Trank had his DCDs running already, then I was going to **** and moan 'cause I'm still working on mine.

 

Yes, but no sense of timing!

One note to add to this petrified thread though. With the shutter valve, what I did was remove the small screws that hold the "flap" on the shaft, then removed the flapper itself leaving the shaft in place. Just be careful not to drop one of the screws or you'll be in for more work than you wanted. I figured that since the rear barrel is larger (to compensate for the space taken up by the shutter valve), leaving the shaft in place would maintain the balance between the front/rear barrels....

 

WHen my shutter valve went bye bye, i just ghetto fixed it...i plugged it up....with tape LOL! AND IT WORKED!!

 

i pulled the shudder valve out and cut the shaft in two pieces, i then coated the two pieces with JB weld, and pluged the hole where the valve itself went and the vac port on the side of the mani with those pieces, worked perfecly for me.

 

Just an update

I am now using the stock intake as a doorstop

 

ok, so i didnt read through all of the responses. but i say its a vacuum leak. you can check for those with a few simple proceedures that can be foundby searching.

 

its an old thead, but funny that someone found it the same week i decided to trash the stock intake all together

yes, a whole week of posting from my ps3

 

Damn you. I saw the thread and I thought you got your DCD's on. Weber tease...