My motor died on the track.

Takes forever to turn over, and then just sputters and runs very rough, often dies unless you keep the choke right out and half on throttle.

Blows lots of smoke. :/

How can I tell if the apex seals are blown?

~DQ

 

Lack of compression in part of the rotation is the key symptom. Basically, you have no or little compression from one rotor on two-thirds of the rotation.

Horrible noises, parts coming out, failure to start or hold idle, extreme rough running, can also accompany. It's also been described as just like someone hitting a kill switch, or like running out of gas. Onset is sudden.

An empty wallet seems to also be a common symptom.

 

Wouldn't that be more of a common side effect?

 

Exactly what happened. On track, zooming along, feels good man.....Poop, engine starts sputtering, no power and then dies, luckily I was able to roll into the pits.

 

Remove leading spark plugs, Turn engine over by hand. Listen for 3 wooshes. Should sound like Wooosh Wooosh Wooosh. If it goes Wooosh Wooosh _______ Wooosh Wooosh _______ you have a side seal gone. If it goes ______ ______ Wooosh ______ ______ Wooosh then you have a broken apex seal.

Do the same for the rear. Remember to leave one set of plugs in (front in rear out, or vice versa).

 

So pull both plugs for the front rotor, then put them back in, then pull the one for the rears?

I assume turn it over with a socket, though mine still has the stock fan.

Thanks for the idea Jeezus!

 

Just because I guess.... Im sure you already know how it works but hey why not.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGrD7FTFLJc

 

lol, thank you. I know how they work.

 

very good animation though

 

And its usually easiest if you remove leading (bottom plug) imo and then you get a better feel of the whoosh

 

This is what you will hear, only more powerful since they are coming out the spark plug holes:

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=QCcfL37d0YE

This is with front and rears open, so you will hear more wooshes.

EDIT: Also, if you remove the clutch fan, you can turn the engine over with a 19mm socket. Or just grab the belts and pull.

 

Make sure the battery is charged.
Remove both top plug wires (unplug at distributor).
Remove leading wire from coil to distributor.
Remove front top plug (T1).
Put a rag in front of the open plug hole.
Crank the engine with the key for a few seconds.
Listen for the sounds described above.
Replace T1 plug and repeat for T2 plug.

Rag to avoid fuel spraying out of the hole while cranking. Remove the leading coil wire so the car won't start. Remove both trailing plug wires from distributor to avoid open sparks and blowing up your car. Regular chugs with no gaps you are good.

 

Well my starter cracked off, but that's a separate incident.

I went down and cranked the engine over by hand:

After removing the fan and shroud I had enough room to do a 1/3 turn with my ratchet. Every full rotation of the eccentric shaft I get a single woosh. I tested both rotors individually and got the same results from each.

.33 x 3 = 1 approx
each 1 turn of the eccentric shaft = woosh.
That video confirms that the eccentric shaft spins 3 times for every compression.

So it sounds like my motor seems to have compression? Blarghk! Not sure why I died out. I still have a full tank of fuel.

 

Time to check your ignition. Check to see if you are getting spark. My bet is either that or your Carb is in need or a rebuild/fuel filter, based on the first post.

 

More like collateral damage.

 

I'll check the distributor tomorrow, Any tips on checking the plugs? I couldn't seem to get them to gap to anything metal before. (though I was a bit scared having never done it.)

 

Well, unable to test for spark since my starter is poop, and no one is around to help.

Pulled all the plugs, the cap and rotor. Everything looks alright?

Maybe it's one of the ignitors?

Plugs are fairly new, but looks pretty beat


Cap seems in alright shape, little bit of wear.


Rotor looks a bit beat.


Mitsubishi alt???

 

Probb just an igniter..

 

Is that dizzy rotor on tight? It looks kinda like it's been rubbing, from the burrs around the top hole.

 

The cap wiggles a bit even with both clips down.

 

Could be part of your problem - - should be pretty solid.

I was wondering about the rotor, though, not the cap. Both have to maintain pretty exact clearances for good spark, and if they bump at speed, it will usually rip em both up good.

 

I'll have to fix my starter and get someone to help me check for spark.