How To: Repair the hatch lock
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,843
Likes: 1
From: Convoy, Ohio, USA
I have two FBs with the same problem thought I'd share an easy fix with you guys.
The rubber that isolates the latch shrinks with age and allows the latch to move about causing locking problems, some can be adjusted and tightened but i decided to fix it once and for all.
Remove two large retaining screws and remove both top and bottom plates. Each plate has a rubber gasket insulating the metal from the glass.
The rubber that protrudes into the glass holes is the one that shinks.
Cut the two pieces of rubber that extend into the glass holes off.
I had a piece of silicone heater hose, but regular will do, cut 2 pieces of about 1/4" length, slide them into the glass holes. This hose was an exact fit, couldn't be luckier.
replace the remaining stock items, the metal posts will take a little coaxing but will go into the heater hose nicely. Tighten and test the lock works. Now my latch wont move at all.
I found I had a problem with the striker so removed the rear trim, loosened the catch panel and raised it about 1/4".
Now my latch is secure, I can close and lock my back hatch, it doesn't jump open over dips, rattles are vastly reduced as is exhaust sound (well a little bit)
Steve
The rubber that isolates the latch shrinks with age and allows the latch to move about causing locking problems, some can be adjusted and tightened but i decided to fix it once and for all.
Remove two large retaining screws and remove both top and bottom plates. Each plate has a rubber gasket insulating the metal from the glass.
The rubber that protrudes into the glass holes is the one that shinks.
Cut the two pieces of rubber that extend into the glass holes off.
I had a piece of silicone heater hose, but regular will do, cut 2 pieces of about 1/4" length, slide them into the glass holes. This hose was an exact fit, couldn't be luckier.
replace the remaining stock items, the metal posts will take a little coaxing but will go into the heater hose nicely. Tighten and test the lock works. Now my latch wont move at all.
I found I had a problem with the striker so removed the rear trim, loosened the catch panel and raised it about 1/4".
Now my latch is secure, I can close and lock my back hatch, it doesn't jump open over dips, rattles are vastly reduced as is exhaust sound (well a little bit)
Steve
My first question for both of you is what kind of shape is the hatch weatherstrip in? As that ages, and shrinks, it can affect the tightness of the latch too.
Steve, you're just full of ideas today, aren't you.
Steve, you're just full of ideas today, aren't you.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,843
Likes: 1
From: Convoy, Ohio, USA
Mine is in pretty good shape actually, strip has no rips and is standing up to useage. It looks as though it may have been replaced and that's why i had to raise the catch.
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Originally Posted by IanS
What is diameter of hose? Nice writeup. My new subs like to open my hatch while going down the highway.
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