1979 Glass Sunroof Locking pin?
#1
1979 Glass Sunroof Locking pin?
Hi,
Some of you read my thread about the sunroof being lost during shipping of my 79 and how I replaced it with a moonroof. This top has a pin in it for locking and I noticed that the steel roofs also have a sliding mechanism for locking. There is nothing on my car for these 'locks' to slide into! Is there a piece on my car that is missing???? Are you supposed to install the sunroof deflector piece and then lock to that?
Here is the locking pin on my moonroof.
Some of you read my thread about the sunroof being lost during shipping of my 79 and how I replaced it with a moonroof. This top has a pin in it for locking and I noticed that the steel roofs also have a sliding mechanism for locking. There is nothing on my car for these 'locks' to slide into! Is there a piece on my car that is missing???? Are you supposed to install the sunroof deflector piece and then lock to that?
Here is the locking pin on my moonroof.
#2
Happy Rotoring!
iTrader: (13)
Your opening should have a formed metal bracket thats attached to the body. The roof clips into the two forward catches and the pin is slid under the bracket. The pin doesn't exactly go into it, more like under it and is captured by the bracket, preventing the forward edge of the roof from lifting up if the roof happens to move to the rear and becomes detached from the two catches. If that happens and it catches air....."POOF" she gone! Maybe that's how the transport company lost it in the first place? I can post a pic of the bracket later.
I saw this once a long time ago from a car in front of me on a highway. Didn't know what this thing was flipping up through the air until it crash landed into a million peices ahead of me. The car just kept going like nothing happened, no brake lights or anything.
I saw this once a long time ago from a car in front of me on a highway. Didn't know what this thing was flipping up through the air until it crash landed into a million peices ahead of me. The car just kept going like nothing happened, no brake lights or anything.
#3
Your opening should have a formed metal bracket thats attached to the body. The roof clips into the two forward catches and the pin is slid under the bracket. The pin doesn't exactly go into it, more like under it and is captured by the bracket, preventing the forward edge of the roof from lifting up if the roof happens to move to the rear and becomes detached from the two catches. If that happens and it catches air....."POOF" she gone! Maybe that's how the transport company lost it in the first place? I can post a pic of the bracket later.
I saw this once a long time ago from a car in front of me on a highway. Didn't know what this thing was flipping up through the air until it crash landed into a million peices ahead of me. The car just kept going like nothing happened, no brake lights or anything.
I saw this once a long time ago from a car in front of me on a highway. Didn't know what this thing was flipping up through the air until it crash landed into a million peices ahead of me. The car just kept going like nothing happened, no brake lights or anything.
My roof opening only has the two brackets for the sunroof:
#4
Happy Rotoring!
iTrader: (13)
Yep, your missing the part in the middle that the pin goes through. You can see where it once was. The flip up rear latch allowed the roof to move rearward slightly and if the front catches came apart, this was a backup to keep it from possibly flying off. It would most likely tear off the the rear latch if it did go.
Since your rear flip up looks intact, I wonder if it was attached correctly. If it was also missing this front bracket, the blame for losing the roof goes more to the seller than the shipper IMO. This is probabbly why they re-designed the roof mechanism to the tab /slot arrangement at the front.
Since your rear flip up looks intact, I wonder if it was attached correctly. If it was also missing this front bracket, the blame for losing the roof goes more to the seller than the shipper IMO. This is probabbly why they re-designed the roof mechanism to the tab /slot arrangement at the front.
#5
Yep, your missing the part in the middle that the pin goes through. You can see where it once was. The flip up rear latch allowed the roof to move rearward slightly and if the front catches came apart, this was a backup to keep it from possibly flying off. It would most likely tear off the the rear latch if it did go.
Since your rear flip up looks intact, I wonder if it was attached correctly. If it was also missing this front bracket, the blame for losing the roof goes more to the seller than the shipper IMO. This is probabbly why they re-designed the roof mechanism to the tab /slot arrangement at the front.
Since your rear flip up looks intact, I wonder if it was attached correctly. If it was also missing this front bracket, the blame for losing the roof goes more to the seller than the shipper IMO. This is probabbly why they re-designed the roof mechanism to the tab /slot arrangement at the front.
Btw, I checked my manufacturing date and its 8/78.
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#8
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
Bit of a side-thought Cooch, but you might want to pull up your sunroof SEAL and check underneath for rust and grunge - and be sure your DRAIN holes are clear! That will keep them as new and delicious as Banzai's roof gutters!
Likewise the lower gutters of the hatch under the rear seal are rust-prone too! AND - be sure the 2 (or 3 in some rare early SAs) drain holes at the hatch base have the hoses (1) still attached and (2) still exiting under the bumper at each corner!!! VERY easy to pull into the car, then hatch drains into rear fenders, chaos ensues!!(ie, rust)…and (3) again- make sure the hoses are clear. These all plug easily, then standing water and muck = rust in no time.
If you do discover rust (I would be VERY impressed if you did not) - POR15 rust seal (POR15.com) is impressive stuff, and can be painted over afterwards. Nuke-proof, easy to apply. Use it on areas (oh yes, there are _several_ rust-prone spots!) all over my SA…
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Likewise the lower gutters of the hatch under the rear seal are rust-prone too! AND - be sure the 2 (or 3 in some rare early SAs) drain holes at the hatch base have the hoses (1) still attached and (2) still exiting under the bumper at each corner!!! VERY easy to pull into the car, then hatch drains into rear fenders, chaos ensues!!(ie, rust)…and (3) again- make sure the hoses are clear. These all plug easily, then standing water and muck = rust in no time.
If you do discover rust (I would be VERY impressed if you did not) - POR15 rust seal (POR15.com) is impressive stuff, and can be painted over afterwards. Nuke-proof, easy to apply. Use it on areas (oh yes, there are _several_ rust-prone spots!) all over my SA…
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#10
Bit of a side-thought Cooch, but you might want to pull up your sunroof SEAL and check underneath for rust and grunge - and be sure your DRAIN holes are clear! That will keep them as new and delicious as Banzai's roof gutters!
Likewise the lower gutters of the hatch under the rear seal are rust-prone too! AND - be sure the 2 (or 3 in some rare early SAs) drain holes at the hatch base have the hoses (1) still attached and (2) still exiting under the bumper at each corner!!! VERY easy to pull into the car, then hatch drains into rear fenders, chaos ensues!!(ie, rust)…and (3) again- make sure the hoses are clear. These all plug easily, then standing water and muck = rust in no time.
If you do discover rust (I would be VERY impressed if you did not) - POR15 rust seal (POR15.com) is impressive stuff, and can be painted over afterwards. Nuke-proof, easy to apply. Use it on areas (oh yes, there are _several_ rust-prone spots!) all over my SA…
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Likewise the lower gutters of the hatch under the rear seal are rust-prone too! AND - be sure the 2 (or 3 in some rare early SAs) drain holes at the hatch base have the hoses (1) still attached and (2) still exiting under the bumper at each corner!!! VERY easy to pull into the car, then hatch drains into rear fenders, chaos ensues!!(ie, rust)…and (3) again- make sure the hoses are clear. These all plug easily, then standing water and muck = rust in no time.
If you do discover rust (I would be VERY impressed if you did not) - POR15 rust seal (POR15.com) is impressive stuff, and can be painted over afterwards. Nuke-proof, easy to apply. Use it on areas (oh yes, there are _several_ rust-prone spots!) all over my SA…
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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