*bump*


I'm not bumping this to the top, I'm describing how my 12A starts. Just nudge the starter.

 

Pull the choke on my '83 and it fires instantly at 30 below

 

yes, just to add to my own thread hahaha, my car now starts immediately!!!

 

My '85 12A starts great when cold or from after sitting for long periods. I just pull the choke and touch the key and it fires right up! The only time it is a bit cranky is in the hot weather after sitting for 10-20 min. after a hard run. But even then its still easy to start. Crack the throttle a bit and she starts!

 

Forgot to mention : I dont have any sort of choke on my nikki. The Shaft and butterflies and everything has been removed ,in an attempt to get all restrictions out of the way.

I`am seriously considering refitting the choke.Its really getting annoying now.

 

no choke no nothing, key in to start for about 1/2 second

 

When its cold I just pump the gas twice and turn the key for about half a second and she starts right up. Then I keep her at 2000 for about a minute and she's ready. When its warm/hot out or I've already had the car running, all I gotta do is think about sticking the key in and she starts right up.

 

I'm glad this thread has demonstrated that carbed rotaries don't seem to be all too difficult to start under varying conditions.
...Now I'll plug my carb!
Cold, one pedal stroke. Hot, of course, none.
Getting the warm rotary to start immediately with just one key-crank is not just a function of proper carb tuning.
There are other important differences going on in all of your carbs, engines, and other components. Starters are getting old for some of you, seal springs are not giving as good compression at start-up as your buddys' are, accelerator pump diaphragms are tough as old shoes for some of you, accelerator pump nozzels and other internal jets are varying sizes on different year carbs (-I.E., some APs are just plain better!), and then is the mixture and speed adjustments. Some have emissions **** in tact, while others don't.

-If you take this all into concideration, it's really quite remarkable that ANY of these postas were similar!

I do not have a choke installed. Others have flooded my car attempting to start it. I mention this because I converse alot via email with folks inquiring about modded carbs, requesting the choke be retained mostly because they have always experienced starting problems with their rotaries.
My opinion is that if you've tuned the carb properly, and you're looking for performance in a carb, you should'nt need a choke. The physical presence of the choke plate and shaft will (is thought to) impede air flow. For a modded carb where every source of flow restriction is sought to be removed, it seems silly to make such efforts to wring the best from the carb and then replace the choke!
-Having said all of that, Carl will be flow testing with and without chokes to measure the difference.

 

i've noticed that i can crank mine now without the choke, but it's just that much quicker with it. eventually when you guys finish all your flow testing i will be sending a carb to get the full works! haha

p.s. i'm glad i started this thread, now when people say "the f.i. 13b 1st gen is so much more reliable for starting" we can throw this in their face! WOOT FOR CARBS!

 

LOL you cars all start better than my FI system! Oh well, I just have leaky injectors, and I'm getting them cleaned today.

 

When I purchased my 79 it was very very rough. With new points and sparkplugs, it started quicker EVERY TIME than any of my 2nd gens have.

Going back together with the new motor, most of the emmissions gone and the electric throttle motor thing gone, it probably won't be the same.

Weather from 20 degrees to 100.