brownmound

After dismantling my entire intake I've got bits of gasket here and there on just about everthing. The manifolds, actuators, BAC and ASV, etc. I tried scraping with a blade, but it doesn't work and nicks the aluminum. Tried a gasket remover product, it sort of turns em to mush but they are still sticking. nothing to get a blade under either, real thin residue.

How the hell do you guys clean the surfaces before you but new gaskets on??

Right on.

PS: Mound Restoration 2003 website update coming soon, I've been too busy cleaning the damn thing and of course, rockin' out on the weekends.

unreality

I have to pull gaskets off of aluminum transmission parts daily at work, and razor blades are the way to go. If you can't get under it, hold the blade perpendicular to the surface of the gasket and move the blade back and forth rapidly.

If you're working on something non-aluminum, like stainless steel, take it to a wire wheel.

Lastly, if you really can't get the gasket off by hand, invest in a tub of Berryman Chem-Dip. Put the part in overnight, and in the morning the gasket will be long gone. I promise

RX-7-8593

Ive tried the razor blade and gasket disolver stuff does not work really well on hard baked on gaskets that a rotary usually has. I use a gasket remover tool that goes on the end of my die grinder. It kinda feels like a scotch brite pad. You hit the old gasket with it and it grids right threw it in seconds. As soon as you hit the metal surface it does not hurt it but kinda polishes it. I got it at an industrial hardware store but I cant remember what brand it is or the exact name of it. You might be able to get it at your larger local auto parts stores like NAPA.

unreality

Hey! Another San Diego driver.

I've dealt with some pretty nasty gaskets before, and Chem-dip always manages to take it off. However, if you do figure out what that gasket remover is called, let me know.

81Rex6port13b

i had a gasket that was baked on was almost imposible to get off with a razor so i used sand-paper and sanded it off worked for me.

although now that i think of it if you sand it to long you can accualy sand the aluminum away and make it warped. so if you do it that way be carful.

680RWHP12A

sharp new razor blades!!!! your best friends!

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, sandpaper works well sometimes too .

~T.J.

cheapie

Make sure you use a block with the sandpaper, and you will have less of a chance to mess up the surface.

Rotary13B1

iTrader: (8)

when you ain't got time to mess around...I take the air drill and attach the wire brush attachment to it and pull the trigger....nice and shiny..

brownmound

Thanks for all the tips....I think I may have found another solution, I dropped the parts off at a local machine shop and said, "here, clean these." We'll see what happens, it's only $10 a pop (dynamic chamber, lower and upper intake for $30)

They were dirty anyways and the B12 chemtool was just moving the grime and redepositing it elsewhere.

Parts order is into my Mazda dude...waiting to see what the damage is (mostly a bunch of crush washers and gaskets, but I'm worried about the cost of those OMP lines.)

Right on.

FJ

RX-7-8593's method is the best, but if you don't have the tools...

Gasket remover does nothing on mostly complete, baked gaskets. A sharp putty knife until you get close to the metal, then razor blades and gasket remover works. (Careful, it's easy to cut into the metal surface.) Then scuff pads and gasket cleaner for the residue.
Sandpaper works, but do use a block. Even then, it's easy to sand the surface too far. It may be clean, but uneven is a problem.

Of course, sending it out works also.
I have taken the same parts as you for bead blasting. I had removed the gasket on the manifolds, (RPTB) but not the DC. He removed the gasket on the DC, cleaned the innards, and bead blasted all three parts for $30.00 CDN.
When I picked the parts up, I asked him to do my Aux port valves and the line that feeds them, and I would pick them up tomorrow: he cleaned them while I waited, no extra charge. Wouldn't accept a $10.00 tip. I had to pressure him to take five.
He is a local garage owner that has the bead blasting machine. I couldn't be happier with the results.
I had bead blasted the lower manifold (and other parts) about 8 years ago, and it was still clean. (Dirt doesn't seem to stick in the relatively rough/porous surface.) Now it all looks better than new. (Mazda had applied a varnish, which discolors.)

General Tip: After searching the phone book, I found him by asking the local parts/body shop supply store who bought the bead blasting material.

brownmound: I hope your results are as good as mine, and I suspect they will be. Bead blasting is the best cleaning and finish, unless you want to polish.


I've read the OMP lines are around $25.00 U.S. each. If you have a hobby shop close by, you might check for R/C fuel lines. Someone mentioned in the 2nd Gen forum that nitro fuel lines can be had cheap, in a similar size, by the foot. I haven't looked into it as mine are still flexible, but it's an option.

-John

SilverRocket

I just use a Dremel.

FJ

I've tried my Dremel also, but it can bite into the aluminum real quick. Probably the wrong bit.

What drum size, paper # did you use? Or did you use one of the special drum-style bits?

-John.

nopistonsforjoe

I'm SD tooooo!!! hehe I used a razor blade on my gaskets, just make sure you switch it out when it starts getting even a little dull...a sharp blade makes all the difference.

brownmound

Nice post....yeah I've found the gasket remover makes nothing more than a gelatinous mess. I should probably invest in a right angle grinder or something.

I dropped the intake parts off at a machine shop and I believe they are just going to dip them. Hopefully they will machine the mating surfaces as well. If not I'll ask em too....bead blasting will happen if I am not happy with the results of the dipping. We'll see.

Thanks for the help guys.

Right on.