$100T2

iTrader: (1)

I can't get this thing out no matter what I've tried, including my sawzall. Can you guys think of anything to try?

rotor vs. piston

Hammer, big hammer. What happens allot of times is the bolt will rust along with the control arm and they'll bond together.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

I've tried the BFH, it doesn't work either. Man, this sucks.

rotor vs. piston

Do you have an air hammer? That may do it.

Other wise... I have cross member and an extra set of control arms if you need them.

If you haven't already, use allot of PB Blast on them... squirt it a few times today and try tomorrow.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

yea you need to cut it out, get some better blades for the sawzall or try a angle grinder with cutting disc.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I was about to give up on this one after a couple hours of wacking on them. But I came back another day with a little more patience and some better fitting wrenches, rachets, scedule 40 PVC "helpers" and lots of PB blaster and got them off both sides, it's a nice feeling when it happens.

Ray

EonBlue

Sweet merciful God, the bolts on my car did NOT want to come out. I used penetrating lubricant, propane torch, and hammered the ever loving **** out of it. I ended up dropping the entire crossmember and cutting the bolts with a cut off wheel. Hopefully you won't end up in my position.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Interesting that you guys are having so many problems, mine came out pretty easily. An air hammer would work wonders in this situation though.

rotor vs. piston

^^Just all depends on rust... I've had some I can easily get the nut out and pull to bolt out by hand (wiggling the control arm) and others I've had to beat the ever living mess out of... it's a just a big "it depends" when it comes to these. And like I said before, just because you get the nut off doesn't mean the bolt is going to come out, it still may be rusted to the inside of the control arm.

Manntis

Is the control arm out and off the car? Gently heat the hole around the bolt with a torch, then using two hammers, tap the bolt on both sides at the same time to work the rust free. That prevents distortion that would lock the bolt into place, which would be bad.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Nope, I can't get it off the car. It's drooping down like a flacid *******.

Manntis

might still be able to heat it, but mind the brake lines and bushings.

Hades12

I just always use a 1/2 drive and a bar. We had one fight us. used the 3/4 set a pipe and two of us. When It popped we thought it was the socket breaking.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Well, I got the nut off of it a year or two ago no sweat... I can turn the bolt with my rachet easily, I just can't get it out of the damn hole.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

What's holding the bolt in place is the steel sleeve that's larger than the bolt holes on either side. If you can't break the rust bond between the sleeve and bolt, then you will need to cut the bolt on the inner sides of the LCA.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Finally got it off. It only took a cut-off wheel, a torch, the BFH, and two hours.

Next up, I get to do the drivers' side.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

you going to keep the FB?

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I've put too much work into it to junk it or give it away. I'll just chip away at it here and there when I have the time. The 'vert is gone, the T2 is going this weekend I believe.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

I did this last year took sawzall, BFH, wrenches and a ***** load of swearing, grease the new bushings and regrease them annually

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

good choice with keeping the FB. any engine ideas?

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

The 12A is fuxxored. Going to do a swap, probably V-6.

two79rx7's

try a very hot torch, like propane and compressed air mix, or O2 and aceltylene.
Once you get it hot through water all over it or better yet dunk in water. eventually the expansion and contraction cycle should break it free.

a far second choice: cut the threaded part off and precision drill it out