Hot start issues
04-30-06, 12:26 AM
#1
Hot start issues
So i just finished a rebuild. And i'm 300 miles into the break-in. It starts right up when it's cold. But hot starts are a bitch. It doesn't flood, at least I don't think it's flooding. It's a S513BT blow through weber 45dcoe incase you needed to know. NE1 got any Ideas? Timeing L 10* BTDC and T 2* BTDC w/ locked dizzy.
05-01-06, 06:16 PM
#5
dark side i sense in him
i have to pull out my choke, its an automatic choke and it wont stay out but keep it pulled and normally starts right up. and a little gas doesnt hurt either.
05-01-06, 06:19 PM
#6
when u did the build, was the apex seals and springs, corner seals and springs replaced? the first time i did my rebuild, i had the same prob. i'm not sure if it was caused be reusing the old apex and corner seals and springs, or if the guy that ported my rotor housings got the exhaust port too big that it was loosing compression due to too much overlap.
05-01-06, 08:17 PM
#7
I got brand new apex seal springs, FD cornerseal springs, solid cornerseals. Every seal and spring was brand new, except for the apex seals and bearings. Ran out of money. I did a really small port on the intake and left the exhaust stock. All the side seals were clearanced to .025" (big debate on weather .02 or.03 was best. I went with inbetween) I don't think it's flooding cause when it starts it's not sounding like it's flooding. it's a different sound. When it starts after a flood it gergals, but it just takes two minutes of cranking to get it to start when it's warm.
Rxtasy3: did the problem eventually go away?
Rxtasy3: did the problem eventually go away?
Last edited by Hyper4mance2k; 05-01-06 at 08:20 PM.
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05-02-06, 12:30 AM
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
shouldnt have re used the apex seals, a big no-no, unless each seal/ corner chip goes back in exactly where it was before you dis- assembled the motor.... hard warm stars usally is a sign of low compression 
the apex seals(stock ones ) are a hard, slow wearing material, so, the used seals are worn , and will not properly bed in the re assembled motor ...
the apex seals(stock ones ) are a hard, slow wearing material, so, the used seals are worn , and will not properly bed in the re assembled motor ...
05-02-06, 01:55 PM
#10
Holy ****. really?!?! Fawk! man... ****! Is there anything i can do besides buy new apex seals and rebuild it again? everything else is new. damnit! Fawking people said you can reuse seals as ling as they're in spec.... ****. When I hook up the charge pipe will boost help the seals break in better?
05-02-06, 02:00 PM
#11
I would definitely replace the apex seals, who ever told you that you can is on some really good crack. As for the breakin, I think your supposed to stay out of boost for atleast 500 miles, and even after 500, little at a time...there should be a bunch of threads on this in the 2nd & 3rd gen sections.
05-02-06, 05:15 PM
#13
Welp I'm at 400 miles into the breakin and still havent hooked up the charge pipe or gone over 4k since I don't have a fuel punp to support the boost yet. So as long as they will break in eventually even if it takes 3k as long as it does and I don't have to rebuild again I'll be okay. I drive 100 miles a day for work so it shouldn't take me too long.
05-04-06, 07:00 PM
#16
560 miles in just home 4um werk going to change the oil: Still won't start hot. If I let it cool for literally 2 minutes it'll start with some pedal play. When it's cold it starts on the first compression stroke. Starts cold better than any engine I've ever had.
05-04-06, 07:07 PM
#17
Sounds like it's getting better, the 2 minutes are funny, that is not enough time to cool any thing. The engines is still going into heat sink 2 minutes after shut down. Sounds more like a hot fuel issue than anything, fuel percolation maybe.
05-05-06, 12:30 AM
#19
Update I'm at 650 miles and it got it's oil change and new plugs runns great. Just still a little hot start issue.. Gettign better though. On an off note; where should I hook up the boost reference port on the mallory FPR? It's on the intake manifold right now. Question is that if the turbo is building boost at say 3000 rpm cruise then how would the FPR know that there is boost on the carb side of the throttle plates if the FPR is seeing vaccume from the manifold. How would it know to increase fuel pressure to the carb and cruise no matter how big of a pump you have. I ask because I was kinda mad and just hooked up the charge pipe and it went brickwall lean when I was at part throttle, but if I just stomped on it, it would haul *** down the road at 5psi and the fuel pump was keeping up fine nice and rich. Oh and its scarry fast, but I can't drive it over 3k at any type of part throttle or it goes off the map lean and surges, but there is vaccume in the manifold. Do I just need to shut the fawk up eat more cheeseand buy a bigger fuel pump, or what? Again its currently a Holley Blue 14psi@110gph as opposed to the GSL-SE which does 50 psi @ 27gph.
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