High Immediate Idle
#1
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High Immediate Idle
Now this has happened to me only 2 times this year when i leave school. Car has been sitting outside all day and around 70 degrees. When i start it up, it revs up to 3000 and stays there for almost 5 seconds or more. I am thinking that i possibly have a sticky throttle linkage, or something is sticking once in a while causing it to do that. Anyone ever had this problem or any suggestions to my problema?
#2
I had a similar problem with my dashpot. It is what keeps the throttle from slamming closed during sudden closings. It seemed like every time I stopped to get gas and started the car back up, it would rev to 5000 rpm for like 15 seconds. I got a lot of crazy looks for that one.
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Re: High Immediate Idle
Originally posted by GavinJuice
Car has been sitting outside all day and around 70 degrees. When i start it up, it revs up to 3000 and stays there for almost 5 seconds or more.
Car has been sitting outside all day and around 70 degrees. When i start it up, it revs up to 3000 and stays there for almost 5 seconds or more.
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Re: Re: High Immediate Idle
Originally posted by knight1976
I think they are supposed to do that its for the cat to warm up real quick. Its normal for it to do that but if you want to bring the rpms down i believe you just tap on the gas and it will immediatly come down. Least thats the way it works on my 90.
I think they are supposed to do that its for the cat to warm up real quick. Its normal for it to do that but if you want to bring the rpms down i believe you just tap on the gas and it will immediatly come down. Least thats the way it works on my 90.
#6
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Yea it's fuel injected, GSL-SE should have popped up in my sig but it didn't.
I understand the cold start portion but it's never happened like this before, i tapped on the gas also but it doesn't kick down, it's like something is hanging up but i don't how what.
I understand the cold start portion but it's never happened like this before, i tapped on the gas also but it doesn't kick down, it's like something is hanging up but i don't how what.
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It will do it on cold starts, but when you push in the clutch and engage 1st gear, it's SUPPOSED to go down. Right now, mine does not. It'll stay up around 3-4k for anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute, and yes I get the weird looks too. Still workin on this one
Zac
Zac
#9
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Mine always revved up to 3000rpms cold-I would start it in gear and then it would come right back down to 2000rpms for normal cold idle.
After doing the 2nd gen intake and throttle body mod (w/everything but the thermowax removed) it only jumps to 1500rpms on cold starts and idles there until warm.
Cold start assist/enrichment sucks, it revs the engine too high before the oil can lubricate anything
After doing the 2nd gen intake and throttle body mod (w/everything but the thermowax removed) it only jumps to 1500rpms on cold starts and idles there until warm.
Cold start assist/enrichment sucks, it revs the engine too high before the oil can lubricate anything
#13
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Completely normal for an SE - the ECU detects water temperature and outside air temperature and then combines this with the clutch switch and neutral switch to set whether and/or how long the 'choke' cycle remains in effect.
On a properly tuned SE, as soon as you start driving, the ECU detects that your engine RPM's are high enough to promote good combustion (combined with O2 sensor signal), and drops the artificial idle speed increase. Of course, the thermowax system is still in effect, so when you come to a light/stopsign within the electronic 'choke' cycle, the idle cam is still set to fast-idle.
Once water temp comes up and circulates through the thermowax pellet, the idle cam drops and the engine goes back to unassisted idle, i.e. no choke (electronic or mechanical).
Overall, the choke system on SE's works well to keep the engine running in the early stages of startup, and also creates a rich mixture to both increase compression, and heat the cats for better emissions. If you're in a climate that doesn't require choke to keep it running (FL, AZ, some parts of CA, TX, etc.), then you may consider deactivating the mechanical choke features like the TB 'mod' spoken about here and elsewhere.
In all cases, after you start up and start driving, the idle adjustments shouldn't affect engine speed during driving - these are disengaged at anything other than idle speed to help with driveability when cold. HTH,
On a properly tuned SE, as soon as you start driving, the ECU detects that your engine RPM's are high enough to promote good combustion (combined with O2 sensor signal), and drops the artificial idle speed increase. Of course, the thermowax system is still in effect, so when you come to a light/stopsign within the electronic 'choke' cycle, the idle cam is still set to fast-idle.
Once water temp comes up and circulates through the thermowax pellet, the idle cam drops and the engine goes back to unassisted idle, i.e. no choke (electronic or mechanical).
Overall, the choke system on SE's works well to keep the engine running in the early stages of startup, and also creates a rich mixture to both increase compression, and heat the cats for better emissions. If you're in a climate that doesn't require choke to keep it running (FL, AZ, some parts of CA, TX, etc.), then you may consider deactivating the mechanical choke features like the TB 'mod' spoken about here and elsewhere.
In all cases, after you start up and start driving, the idle adjustments shouldn't affect engine speed during driving - these are disengaged at anything other than idle speed to help with driveability when cold. HTH,
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