Need some direction as I am brand new to the rotary. My son just bought an 85 and bought the racing beat intake, holley carb and header. We hooked up a holley fuel pump and set it at 6psi. I am by no means a mechanic, but I could not get it to idle. It kept racing up and then almost dying. Does anyone have this set up and know what should be hooked up from a vacuum and smog standpoint. I think he disconnected everything and is just piecing it together as he goes. Are there any pictures or anything that can help?? It would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

The RB header was a good choice, the holley and intake not so much. Make sure you keep that
original nikki and intake, it can be made to work better than the holley.

Can I ask why the switch to the holley besides its shiny and cool?

 

I recently put the same set up on my 79 SA and it is running well. I spoke with Jim Tanner at RB several times by phone about troubleshooting and he was very helpful. I still have a secondary that sticks a bit after hard driving but otherwise I am happy. I had a skilled mechanic working on my stock set up for 2 months and he could not make it reliable. I've got 200 miles on the RB set up so far and all is well.

I'm just a weekend mechanic so I can't really guide you.

Silly question but have you tightened the fast idle screw (found by holding the throttle open and looking on the choke side of the carb) and the curb idle screws to raise the idle?

When the fuel line is not hooked up to the carb, turning the ignition on you should really see the fuel pouring out.

The only vacuum line goes from the trailing "T" pod on the distributor to the Holley. Leading is not used. I still have much of the "rats nest" on my car but it does nothing. I just haven't removed it yet.

The RB directions (PDF) from their site were pretty good in terms of hooking everything up. Again, I'm a weekend mechanic but could follow it with no problem. Taking all the stock stuff off was harder!

 

Is it an RB carb?

 

Yes it is an RB Holley that came with the kit. I appreciate the guidance and help. I will have him get back in touch with RB as well. What PDF's are you talking about. Are they on their website? I have not been there yet.

 

I think the same instructions came with the carb kit.
http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/18009%20Holley.pdf

 

Welp. Good luck with it, seriously. Those things are hit and miss at best. Turn both idle screws on the metering block to 1.5 turns out from seated on the firewall side, and 1 turn out on the side towards the water neck/tstat housing.

Look for a black plastic cap on the front of the carb, and rotate it until your choke flap opens a bit. Have it open about a half inch. You'll need to loosen 3 screws on the choke housing to rotate it.

After you've set that up, ensure you're at a static fuel pressure. Contrary to popular belief you only need 4-5 psi of fuel pressure. 7 psi deadheaded (I assume that's what you did) will tempt that carb to flood every time the engine shakes.

Set your floats low to start with, then get it started.

 

yeah what he said^, on that stockport engine i would only push 4psi max, and have a return line hook up if possible. what port did he tell them the carb was going on, the idle jets could also be too big. i have this issue rn on my gf's 79 with dual carbs (they came off a bridgeport 12a and now on stockport) i knew this would happen but i just hooked it up to see. it runs and im sure will drive but below 2k she dies, which i expect, until i put smaller jets in it to compensate for the stockport engine. my psi is around 3-3.5

 

I really feel bad for the people still buying these carburetors

 

Me too. I wonder how much longer Jim tanner will put up with all the phone calls.

 

They screen my calls at RB.