bliffle

This poor old SE was stinking of exhaust fumes so bad I daren't drive it more than 15 minutes, so I replaced the wretched hatch seal with a $100 OEM from Mazdatrix and problem is solved. Easier than I thought. I didn't even have to glue it in, the grip on the flange is adequate. Highly recommended: save yourself being overcome by CO and crashing.

yer

Bump for a good idea.

MosesX605

Yeah, the hatch seal is a common location for exhaust leaks into the cabin. Another is the tail-light seals. I had a devil of a time tracking down an exhaust leak problem in my original '82 GS until I redid the tail-light seals. Voila! Problem solved.

bliffle

Taillight seals would be my next try. I may do it anyhow, since all the seals are so deteriorated. But I've never been able to get the taillights out, even after removing all the nuts I could see from inside. Is there something I must force?

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

There is nothing that needs to be forced, there is the metal basket/bracket that comes out first of all. Then you need to make sure you get all the nuts off/loosened, note there is a couple hidden further up on the edges. From there unclip the electrical connectors, and bingo just slowly work them out, make sure to be gentle because breaking parts sucks...

rotor vs. piston

Over time they just get stuck... just remove the metal "basket" and double check that you have all of the nuts off, don't forget the ones on the side, and gently push on the studs evenly and they'll eventually pop out.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Sometimes the center panel needs to be removed first, then slide the tail light unit outboard, sideways, then pull back. Iirc, there are 10 nuts per light.

There are 2 other sources of exhaust leaks. The corner marker gaskets and the plates in the floor that access the rear nut for the bumper shocks. Chances of infiltration from these 2 sources are very minimal.

bliffle

OK, I'll check all that out. the seals are all so dry and sun-deteriorated that I don't want to take chances.