1986rx7se

Hey guys.
I have an 85 gslse that I am currently in the process of building. It currently has a JDM s4 t2 swap. I'm curious if the mods I am doing are compatible with each other, and if you guys would do anything different. I am not looking for an all out drag car. I am trying to make a fun, streetable car that is as reliable as a turbo rotary can get. Heres the mods that are currently done to the car:
Haltech E6K
Griffin FMIC with 2.5" piping.
stock S5 turbo
Racing beat down pipe
550 primary injectors
720 secondary injectors
Greddy elbow on stock s4 turbo manifold
Stock GSLSE external fuel pump

The motor will be rebuilt at Speed1 Allentown. I am debating on what kind of porting I want to get done. Most likely a street port. I only want to port if it takes advantage of my mods listed. I do not want to port the engine, and have it restricted with my mods.

I am still trying to determine what fuel pump to run. I do not want to run a walbro 255.
I am currently thinking an MSD 2225. 43GPH @40PSI (160LPH). Is this enough fuel?

I am also wondering if my injectors are sized right. I really want a solid setup with no "weak links". 250hp or more to the wheels would be really nice.

This is my first big rotary project, and I'd love to get it right. Can any of you chime in and give some advice as to what things you would do differently, or some suggestions?

What kind of power do you think I will be seeing with these mods?

I've searched a lot, but I couldn't find an exact match to what I am building. Thanks in advance for the replies!

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

you would probably get better responses from the 2nd gen folks as your question has more to do with the motor (which they'll have experience with) and not the chassis.

1986rx7se

You're right. Thanks. I will post on the 2nd gen forum as well. Thanks.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Some would say to port it. Others would say you can make 400HP on stock ports. It's usually the noobs who say to port it, though. You also have a stock turbo, so something to take into account.

I have an MSD 2225 pump and an S5 turbo with essentially stock T2 size ports (they close at 50 degrees or in other words, 74 spec, but my exhaust ports are at GSL-SE spec so slightly delayed opening but closing is the same as T2). The power is pretty good for a hogged out Nikki. A fellow turbo 1st gen guy says my setup is more powerful than his was with the same turbo and his streetports using a weber DCOE, which he estimated to be right around 200. He and I never dynoed so we don't know for sure, but mine can break them loose in 3rd gear on dry road now (sorry if I repeat myself a lot, but I've never had a car this powerful before). Yet my low end driveability is FAR better than his giant streetport ever was. It's better than EFI in some ways. Oh and I've got the stock 7psi wastegate while he was using a manual boost controller set to 10psi and neither of us had an intercooler. Yeah I know red flag. I'll get an intercooler at some point and crank it up to 10psi. Oh also no water cooling yet either. I'm doing so much testing that it requires the turbo to come out now and then. Less mess. Eventually it'll get hooked up so I don't have to run it for a few minutes after driving. This prevents coking of the insides, as you probably know.

As for your specific question about fuel pumps, I'd lean to the MSD (ew, bad pun) because my setup has more than enough fuel for its current power levels. The other guy I mentioned who had his boost cranked at 10psi using the same fuel pump also never ran lean. Even though we are carbed and you aren't, I'd think the same volume in, regardless of pressure, equals the same power out. does that make sense? However I know with higher pressure you can do more, such as voltage vs amps (you can use thinner wires up to a point), and you give up some fuel volume (amps) for higher pressure (volts) but in the end it works out pretty close. Someone like divindriver knows how to compare electrical to liquid better so I'm sure when he sees this he'll add 2 cents and correct me if I'm wrong.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i agree with Jeff, if you do a port, smaller is actually better. the big bottleneck for power in your setup isn't the ports, but the turbo. the stock ports are actually optimized fairly well for a turbo. if you want more power, the best first step is to ditch the stock turbo.

the other thing i would consider changing is the E6K, those things are so bad its a wonder we ever got them to work in the first place. anything newer, like the adaptronic, is 10,000times easier to tune, and much more accurate, and can do stuff that the haltech can't, like sequential injection

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Even a MegaSquirt is better than the E6K because it's totally adjustable to just about any EFI configuration you could ever imagine. I don't know about sequential and all that, but I got one to run on a 20B with wasted spark (I called it a V12 in the tuning software). I like my current Nikki blow through S5 turbo setup better, though.

It's possible the E6K is responsible for a lot of cracked irons over in the 2nd gen forum.

1986rx7se

Thanks guys. Nobody mentioned my injectors, so I will assume that they are sufficient.

With the mods I have listed, what turbo would you guys recommend?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the injectors you have are plenty for the amount of HP the stock turbo can make. if you go with a bigger turbo, it will make more power, and then you will need more fuel.

do you want more power? and if so how much?

if you want a mild power increase, a BNR stage 1 or 2 is great. its inexpensive, bolts on, etc.

if you want a big increase, there is a whole gaggle of bigger turbos, all of which will require a new manifold, and downpipe, among other stuff

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Nothing bigger than what you have, otherwise you need bigger secondaries and pump for sure!

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

My TII Swap Build Thread

Feel free to read through that thread, it details as much of the build as I could handle on how to do a complete TII swap.

You don't need to run bigger fuel line because you have a GSL-SE
550/720 is good for the numbers you're looking to put down
Your ECU will be able to handle the setup
You just need to focus on wiring mainly it sounds like