1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Gsl-se.........want 200hp...

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Old 04-07-21, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mhr650
I have done it, 210 at the wheels. GSL-SE housings ported, S5 intake and throttle body, MS3Pro, and LS coils. Be aware that at this power level you will need a second oil cooler.
Is that bridge port or street port? Also, for the S5 intake, does that include the lower section that activates from exhaust backpressure or are you still using the stock GSL-SE section?
This piece:


People on ebay label both that section and the intake section that bolts on above it as "lower intake manifolds"

Also, just out of curiosity, why didn't you go for itb's?
Old 04-08-21, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by AAAOA
Is that bridge port or street port? Also, for the S5 intake, does that include the lower section that activates from exhaust backpressure or are you still using the stock GSL-SE section?
This piece:


People on ebay label both that section and the intake section that bolts on above it as "lower intake manifolds"

Also, just out of curiosity, why didn't you go for itb's?
It’s a very simple street port, nothing fancy. I run the S5 lower intake, but everything except the runners is plugged or removed. The inlets on the SE center housings can’t be ported all the way out to match the S5 lower intake, but I got them as close as possible






Old 04-08-21, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by AAAOA
Thanks for the thread links man. Nothing against a standalone or any desire to want to make the stock ECU work. Just a bit intimidated when it comes to electrical components is all
Don’t waste your time trying to make the stock ECU work, I made it work and the results were pretty crappy. You can see in this picture I plugged the secondary injector bosses in the S4 intake and ran the engine with the stock GSL-SE ECU and 2 injectors. The problem is that the stock air flow meter, which is the only thing that makes the stock system work, is very restrictive. Even worse is that the stock system runs crazy rich at high RPM, that really kills you when you are trying to make power. Once I upgraded to the MS3Pro I got a huge increase in top end power, and the drivability was so much better.



At some point the wiring does look intimidating, but just take your time and you will end up with a much better car. Bonus is since you did every bit of the wiring you will be able to better understand what is happening if you have problems


Old 04-09-21, 06:17 AM
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Holy Castor, Batman.
Old 04-09-21, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by HotGritz910
I know this is a old thread, but this is exactly the question i have. From my research porting a 6 port 13b dosen't do much or is not worth the money. Now a 4 port 13b would make big gains with porting. I have a gslse that im building into a track day toy and all i think i would need is 200whp on a gutted car that hp should be plenty. I really don't want to turbo the car or swap in my 4.8 ls I have on the engine stand..

It would seem the obvious route is your everyday rotary power mods plus a ida fuel injection system?? Am i right??
The racers running street ported 6port Rotaries would beg to differ. Well north of 200 rwhp is very possible using 6 port housings. Now, would a street ported turbo II or an old school 4 port 13B be better...yes. In fact a street ported turbo II was recommended by a well know engine builder over doing a full on bridge port because of reliability. But in allot of cases a racer has to use what the rules allow them to use or what they have access too. The street ported GSLSE in my car has never been on a dyno but it runs down the straight with cars that make the kinds of numbers you want to see. I used Pineapple Racing EP porting templates and run a 51mm IDA carb with 42mm chokes.

The down side is that these engines are peaky and really need to be attached to a close ratio transmission to get the most out of their power band. They also need a good cooling system for water and oil. On the upside, they make all this power on pump gas and if built right can return years of service on a race track.
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Old 04-09-21, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxwedge
Holy Castor, Batman.
It’s a race car, I think that is pretty normal for racing. This much caster, plus sticky 245-40-15 tires, and 2-hour stints is why I am converting to power assist steering.
Old 04-09-21, 08:49 AM
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Oh I didn't mean to be insulting - I'm just not used to seeing camber plates with that much built-in caster. No race cars in my stable.
I have a street ported 13B 4 port going in my car this summer with a 48 IDA, lightweight flywheel and Miata close-ratio gearset. I'm hoping for about 200hp too.

Last edited by Maxwedge; 04-09-21 at 08:51 AM.
Old 04-09-21, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxwedge
Oh I didn't mean to be insulting - I'm just not used to seeing camber plates with that much built-in caster. No race cars in my stable.
I have a street ported 13B 4 port going in my car this summer with a 48 IDA, lightweight flywheel and Miata close-ratio gearset. I'm hoping for about 200hp too.
Not insulted at all, just pointing out things we do to make a race car handle. On my car even with the camber plates all the way in until the 2.5-inch coilovers rubbed the strut towers I couldn’t get enough camber. I moved the lower control arm pivot point out a half inch on each side, that made it much better. You do what you have to do



You will love the Miata gearset, I converted my car and it made a huge difference.
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