going through an se
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 268
Likes: 10
From: Upton,Ma
going through an se
well i have begun my long road to sprucing up the 7, i yanked the motor out of it for a rebuild(much needed coolant seals were GONE). and from there i went through the front suspension, i did ball joints,tie rods inner and outer, idler arm, pitman arm, etc.. not to mention i had my control arms powder coated 
, and today i ripped out the rear links for some sand blasting and more powder coat, its time to go through the rear of the car. we are talking i have done just about every bushing in this car, ive rebuilt all the calipers for the hell of it. ran new brake lines all around(waiting for my steel braided). next im going to run all new fuel lines and clean up engine bay. think theres anything im missing? ill post pictures up soon!
, and today i ripped out the rear links for some sand blasting and more powder coat, its time to go through the rear of the car. we are talking i have done just about every bushing in this car, ive rebuilt all the calipers for the hell of it. ran new brake lines all around(waiting for my steel braided). next im going to run all new fuel lines and clean up engine bay. think theres anything im missing? ill post pictures up soon!
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,584
Likes: 542
From: Phoenix, AZ
You're just getting started!
Door seals, rear hatch seals, rebuild your window track motor assembly and scissors, check the headlight links, engine mounts, and transmission cross-brace isolation mount, check the driveshaft and U-joints for play, and front tension rod bushings. You could also recharge the A/C system (depending on where you live) and convert it over to R134a, which cools just as well. While you're in the engine bay, check the heater core return line right below the oil filter pedestal - these tend to absorb oil drips over time and blow out, causing rapid coolant loss.
Is this going to be a daily driver that you're preparing? A lot more work could be put into it, if that's the case, to increase reliability, but that should get you started.
Once you have all that stuff done, it's just a matter of keeping it in tune with TPS, Airflow Meter, and BACV valve adjustments, along with oil changes and plugs from time to time.
Good luck, and glad to hear another SE is on the roads,
Door seals, rear hatch seals, rebuild your window track motor assembly and scissors, check the headlight links, engine mounts, and transmission cross-brace isolation mount, check the driveshaft and U-joints for play, and front tension rod bushings. You could also recharge the A/C system (depending on where you live) and convert it over to R134a, which cools just as well. While you're in the engine bay, check the heater core return line right below the oil filter pedestal - these tend to absorb oil drips over time and blow out, causing rapid coolant loss.
Is this going to be a daily driver that you're preparing? A lot more work could be put into it, if that's the case, to increase reliability, but that should get you started.
Once you have all that stuff done, it's just a matter of keeping it in tune with TPS, Airflow Meter, and BACV valve adjustments, along with oil changes and plugs from time to time.
Good luck, and glad to hear another SE is on the roads,
You're just getting started!
Door seals, rear hatch seals, rebuild your window track motor assembly and scissors, check the headlight links, engine mounts, and transmission cross-brace isolation mount, check the driveshaft and U-joints for play, and front tension rod bushings. You could also recharge the A/C system (depending on where you live) and convert it over to R134a, which cools just as well. While you're in the engine bay, check the heater core return line right below the oil filter pedestal - these tend to absorb oil drips over time and blow out, causing rapid coolant loss.
Is this going to be a daily driver that you're preparing? A lot more work could be put into it, if that's the case, to increase reliability, but that should get you started.
Once you have all that stuff done, it's just a matter of keeping it in tune with TPS, Airflow Meter, and BACV valve adjustments, along with oil changes and plugs from time to time.
Good luck, and glad to hear another SE is on the roads,
Door seals, rear hatch seals, rebuild your window track motor assembly and scissors, check the headlight links, engine mounts, and transmission cross-brace isolation mount, check the driveshaft and U-joints for play, and front tension rod bushings. You could also recharge the A/C system (depending on where you live) and convert it over to R134a, which cools just as well. While you're in the engine bay, check the heater core return line right below the oil filter pedestal - these tend to absorb oil drips over time and blow out, causing rapid coolant loss.
Is this going to be a daily driver that you're preparing? A lot more work could be put into it, if that's the case, to increase reliability, but that should get you started.
Once you have all that stuff done, it's just a matter of keeping it in tune with TPS, Airflow Meter, and BACV valve adjustments, along with oil changes and plugs from time to time.
Good luck, and glad to hear another SE is on the roads,
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 268
Likes: 10
From: Upton,Ma
pictures are coming as promised, i havent had time to upload them...i have new sunroof seals and hatch seals.havent gotten to the door seals yet..andd im going to driving this car when its nice out only, i got a dd and other toys as well but shes first on my list
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84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,584
Likes: 542
From: Phoenix, AZ
Well, what you can do is clean them up. Unfortunately, the white plastic 'wheel's that ride on the scissor rails are the parts that corrode, dry-up, and fall off, resulting in the glass going up and down at odd angles.
One way to be sure they won't break prematurely is to get in there and clean out the heavy grease that dries up and causes resistance. Now that I think about it, I had to replace both scissor racks for my doors, at a cost of about $200 each, IIRC.
Also, while you're in there, check the white plastic stops that hold the glass to the rack. They're made of the same type of plastic.
One way to be sure they won't break prematurely is to get in there and clean out the heavy grease that dries up and causes resistance. Now that I think about it, I had to replace both scissor racks for my doors, at a cost of about $200 each, IIRC.
Also, while you're in there, check the white plastic stops that hold the glass to the rack. They're made of the same type of plastic.
