Jetboatking85

ok so im getting started on my 85. Now that I am finally able to post on the big boy pages, here is what ive come up with so far.

I have a Nikki carb, and a Mr. Gasket 42S fuel pump... Im getting gas to the carb, and the car starts with gas poured down carb. wont start on its own. I purchased this carb as a "rebuilt" off of ebay and it hasnt worked yet. im willing to tear it apart for troubleshooting. but dont know what i should be looking for. I have the FSM and it hasnt helped much.

Also cant seem to get the headlamps to turn on. i managed to get the tail lights and running lights to light up, but the headlights still do not work. nor do the hazards or the horn, or the flashers. (could be related?)

priority would be the carb issue.. id like to at least get it running and driving so i can feel good about the car and start building it up.

also, what is this thing in the last picture? it looks like it conects to a vacuum line somewhere and bolts to somthing, but it has a mitsubishi logo on the other side.. and there is no place for it to go.

here is a link to my original thread, for more info and reference
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...1#post11118782

Jetboatking85

Headlights work now... it was a fuseable link under the hood on the drivers side. made myself a new on and ta-da!

turn signals still dont work, and i dont know where to begin on the carb... some one chime in at any time lol

snivley whiplash

iTrader: (4)

sounds like float are stuck. get a rebuild kit, look at the manual and start learning it is soo much fun.. enjoy

85rotarypower

I would double check your fuel pressure to make sure its not too high before tearing into the carb. Also a few taps on the tops of the banjo bolts with a small hammer (light taps) may be enough to unstick the floats if by chance they are stuck, so try that as well.

As for your light problem, you said you made a fuseable link? How did you do this and manage to get the same amperage point at which it blows? The fuseable links are precisely calibrated wires made to burn off if too much amperage is drawn through them. Failing to maintain the same burn off amperage could result in electrical fires and burned up wiring if there was a problem that caused the fuseable link to blow in the first place.

Jetboatking85

the fuseable link that was there was just old and crudded on the conectors.. so i clipped the connectors and replaced them and re installed the link, and the lights turned on. ive had them on for 30 min or so and highs work as well.

as for the flashers and blinkers, im not getting power to the hazard switch so i think its somthing in the "CPU" or "cluster switch" in the dash.

i cant seem to figure out how to get the guage cluster out, searching through the FSM now.

Jetboatking85

ive found this for dash removal...
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...board+%2884-85

do i really have to take all of this off to get to the cpu? surely not...

Jetboatking85

UPDATE: found the cpu/flasher relay.... there are 2 wires comming off the back or the cpu, and i get power on this connector. however, the wires going elsewhere do not produce any power with ignition on and hazards/blinker on...

i think i need one of these,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-Rx7-FL...758#vi-content

Jetboatking85

I can get it started on its own now, and keep it running by feathering the gas, does not rev up and shuts off as soon as i release the gas pedal.

Jetboatking85

i have located and aquired a carb rebuild kit... suprizingly the local autozone had one.

im gonna remove the carb in a moment... it would be nice to have some support on this. anyone have a good step by step that is easy to follow... the FSM carb section is like 400 pages long... lol...

any support at this point would be awesome!

Jetboatking85

well its off... here we go, the instructions that came with the kit are easier to read than the ones that are in the FSM.... so, im gonna start here i think.

Jetboatking85

pic

Jetboatking85

all cleaned up and ready for re-assembly...this seems pretty straight forward.... the original needles and seats have some corosion on them and im curious if this is what was causing the issue. blew b12 through everything else no problem.

Jetboatking85

alright.. got it all back togerther.... had to do some more cleaning... i found that the bowl jets were clogged completely up just like the needle seats. so i took them out and cleaned them up... the kit didnt come with new ones but B12 is a hell of a tool.

ok so its ready to go back in the car tomorrow, im done for the night.

Rotor_Venom08

iTrader: (3)

step one.. throw that mr.gasket fuel pump in the trash, and if you dont unscrew the filter from the pump its to shallow to build pressure and will starve the car... not sure what else it wrong but start there.

Ive owned one and used it just long enough to pass up the return policy and be stuck with this POS.

Jetboatking85

thank you... i will be taking ur advise!

Rotor_Venom08

iTrader: (3)

and after reading your other thread, put more than 2 gallon ish in the tank, and if i was you i would check the pickup filter in the tank and make sure its clear. if the car sat for a period of time.

justinfox

iTrader: (3)

I had a problem similar to this when I first got mine. It ended up that the tank, fuel lines, filter, pump, and carb were full of dirt/ rust and she was starved for gas. I had to replace the pump and filter, drop the tank and clean it out, blow out the lines with compressed air, and rebuild the carb.

Jetboatking85

I think that most of my problem is related to the clogged jets in the carb bowls, and the floats being set wrong. and the tiny *** fuel filter on the end of the pump... im gonna re-install the carb, and remove this filter and see what happens.

that will at least give me a better idea

Jetboatking85

ok, so ive re-installed the "rebuilt" carb, and now i cant get the float bowls to fill up????

this is a step back from where i was

Also im missing some cables.. i have 2 linkages that dont have cables for them. if i close up all the vaccum holes the car should run? i have some "extra" vaccum ports.


im just wanting the car to run for now... so im just needing the bare essentials to get it to purr... all of the "fluff" is gonna go... just raw rx-7 to remain.

Jetboatking85

i tried again this morning, sprayed a little b12 in the carb and it fired right up, however the car died once the b12 was gone.

what would keep my floats from filling up? i measured the floats to have the same drop that the rebuild kit instructed. now im just out of options and really confused. Can anyone lend some support?

Jetboatking85

maybe we can change gears... I have an edelbrock 1406 currently installed on my boat. this carb is un-modified and was purchased from oriellies.

now, im needing to get a diferent carb for my boat... and i found this thread
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=12a+edelbrock


so i know its possible to run an eddy on the 12a.... the question is how? i need a step by step. the thread has a LOT of conflicting advise.

this would be a cost effective alternative.. seeing as how i bought the wrong carb for my boat and dont have another use for it, except possibly in this car with a RB intake mani.

Any suggestions? or am i still on my own?

Jetboatking85

anybody know of a more active forum? or is this it? im getting annoyed by the lack of interest.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

So heres the deal. You have a system that requires all the components to work properly to work.
It has tank, pump, filter, lines, hoses, carb, needles, jets etc. You need to work your way
forward so that your not trying to solve the problem with too many unknowns.

So ...

1. Make sure your flow and pressure are adequate at the carb. Do this by disconnecting the
fuel hose at the carb and timing how much it pumps into a measured bucket in say 30 seconds.
It should pump out about 2 quarts (assuming 30 gph for stock). Also the pressure
should be less than 3 psi. Measure that with a reliable fuel guage if possible.

2. Make sure the return works from the nikki. If thats clogged it will prevent flow.

3. Now hook your known good flowing fuel line and return to the carb and turn the key. Make sure
theres gas filling the bowls to the half way mark. Adjust floats accordingly. A light tap on the
top of the carb cover might loosen a stuck needle valve.

4. Now that your bowls fill lets check to see if the accel pump pumps a show when the gas
is pressed. Just look down the primaries to verify this. If it doesn't pump anything you may
have a blockage somewhere. Take apart the carb and clean it out some more.

5. The idle circuit is bit tougher. If all is well it should be getting some gas but not too much.
You can look down the primaries to see if its getting some gas at idle. Vaccum leaks are the
biggest cause of problems here. Use some propane around the carb to detect them.

Jetboatking85

Thats what im talking about! thank you!... i will take these steps when i get home and go from there! thanks again for the awesome, clear, avise.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Most people here check in maybe once a day, in the evenings after work.