Well... for exhaust, I want your opinion if this is a good idea ect..ect...ect.... I am gonna be daily driving.... Nothing really over 3.5K RPMs..... unless racing... so I was thinking of getting an RB's road race header, and the presilencer's and everything, and right after they reunite, have one of those things that I think jc whitney sells, that you can choose it to dump or go to the muffler, put it in there, somehow make a relay so that at 3.5K RPM it dumps..... Maybe one of those motor things off of a R/C plane, and lots of resisors or somthing.....
So what do you think about that?



Are bridgports reliable with stock seals?


Can I take GSL-SE brake rotors, and stick them on my spindles?

 

Andrew if you really think you're never going to go above 3.5k, you're nuts....

As far as a cutout goes, that would work, but I'll tell you now, you're going to go deaf. On the RB systems, most all of the quieting is done by the power pulse muffler.

you could damn near run a straight pipe to that muffler and it would still sound pretty good. a cutout after the presilencers would be deadly.

The bridgeport ? - TRhat will barely idle below 3.5k how you gonna drive it on the street?

And no, you can't stick those rotors on the spindles... the are a different size.

 

yeah, well I guess I have to wait til' the next autocross you go to, to actually hear the RB system....


So I guess te bridgey is outa the question..


And that sux that the rotors wont fit



Hey, get onto AIM!!!!

 

I'm at dad's.. no AIM here.

Come on out.. Sept 1st or sept 28th I'll be there

 

or both.,.... What we should do, is have you try your best, then have me ride with ya, then see how many seconds longer it took


LOL





Anyways... I was just going to show you what I attempted with your car, and a set of rims....

 

The RB system is super quiet, save for a nice mellow 'burbling'...

 

I was thinking that the muffler might have some restriction... so I figure than when racing (above4 KRPM) it could be dumped, and give a lil' more kick......


I am talking about the road racing header, and dual pipe/presilencer from the header, then it collects together before the axle, and I was thinking about the dump there..... I dunno...


Would the metal hold up?


Will I have to make my own?


THANX, LATERZ, Andrew

 

It makes me laugh when people say bridge-ports aren't streetable when they've probably never even seen one let alone driven one.

The idle is typically around 1800-2000rpm but they do suffer from poor low load fuel economy and they can be annoying to drive in traffic. Other than that they're perfectly streetable.

 

compared to stock the restriction of the RB system is practically nonexistant. Yesterday morning I had stock, I now have RB exhaust, so it's almost a side by side comparison.

 

Is there anyway to do a part bridge? or is that an big extend port?


Please tell me more, I want it to idle at least at 1500 RPM.... And how long do one of these motors last with stock apex seals? With carbon apex seals? Do carbon apex seals mess up the rotor housings???



THANX, LATERZ, Andrew

 

Coool!!! I will still try my idea, only manually turning it on/off.... I might just dyno it, one with, one without...


This will be in the far future.... right now I am trying to decide to keep which car, or which car gets what.....




Thanx, Laterz, Andrew

 

In regards to the GSL-SE rotors:

If you're looking for some more info on brake upgrades check out this site:

http://www.roglv.org/Members/1stGen/.../upgrades.html

 

You can do a partial bridge which means bridge-porting the secondaries only. When used in conjunction with a suitable four barrel carby it should give a slightly better idle and low rpm performance over a full bridge.

Quote:

Please tell me more, I want it to idle at least at 1500 RPM.... And how long do one of these motors last with stock apex seals? With carbon apex seals? Do carbon apex seals mess up the rotor housings???

I doubt you'll get any decent bridge to idle that low. With stock apex seals the engine life shouldn't be much shorter than a stock or street-ported engine providing you keep the rpm's below 8500. Carbon seals allow you to make the most out of the port by having a higher rev limit but they don't last as long... but they are a lot easier on the rotor housings if they break.

 

can someone show me a clear decent image of a bridge port? on both the secondarie, and primary plates!!! THANX!!!


I am wondering....What kind of carb could I run. I was thinking about a holley, since they are easy to come by, and an RB intake, but what size holley? Should the secondaries be jetted different cause of the bridge that would be on them? The primary will probably have a large extend port..... I really dont like idling that high, but I might just do a large extend port all around... will see in the next few months....


I heard somthing about 93+ springs for the apex seals, or somthing.... what was that about?


And what else could I do, like mis matching parts, to make it better? (IE, The springs I guess for better sealing)

Thanx, Laterz, Andrew

 

i was thinking of the same thing with the exhaust, only i want mine to be right after the presilencer and be controlled manually with a choke **** kinda system, and have a side exhaust pipe right in front of the right rear wheel for the cutout.

 

they dont last long, buddy had one on his TII, lasted a week, then flapper thingy blew out, that and with it closed, it never really sealed...
if you do get a switchable cutout, get one with either a bolt on cap, or the manual lever to switch it.

 

You're nuts.... I would never even think about flooring it below 4k. I have been shifting at redline or above, daily driving, for years and years, with no problems. These motors are meant to be reved, that's where they make their power. Porting them only makes this more the case, so if you're looking to do that you better get used to the revs.

 

I once acted as designated driver for two lovely senoritas in LA, driving the Honda Civic coupé belonging to one of 'em. They started screaming when I brought the revs over 2,500 RPM, saying I was going to blow the engine or something. Apparently the girl had been short-shifting the thing the whole time, not realizing how much power a Honda engine has higher up *L*

 

Streetable means capable of everyday use, street-legal, idle no more than 1200 rpm, mpg no lower than 6 and easily capable of stop-and-go traffic without killing your left leg if it's got a clutch. Just cuz it can drive on the street doesn't mean it's streetable.

 

Yeah, I am just worried about MPG, and the idle being at LEAST 1500RPM..... Oh, AND reliability

I probably will go large extend port..... First I need a job... Stupid Minyards dont hire 14 yr olds..... even though I turned in at least 5-8 applications to them and other stores.... what a bunch of bull!!!


Anyways.... Thanx every one.... now I am thinking of getting rid of one of my rex's..... Might keep the 79..... and put all the parts from the 80 i need for the 79, into the 79..... then scrap the sheel over to mario


I dunno..... what to do... what to do.... At least then I would ave some money to get stuff.....


Mario! Check ye pm's and right back yo!!!

Unless my PMS are full?!?

Anyways, Thanx, Laterz, Andrew

 

Is that out of the dictionary or is that just your definition of "streetable." My car idles at around 1400rpm and has shitty fuel economy so I guess it's not streetable then... even though I drive it every day.

 

Way to make up definitions mar.... guess my daily driver isn't streetable either lol.

Streetable is a relative term; everyone's got their own idea. And that's fine, because each of us is willing to put up with varying amounts of compromise in our cars. That might be your definition, but that doesn't mean it's mine.

And if you throw in the street-legal part, 80% of our cars are not "streetable".