Fusible Link Conversion Thread
07-15-05, 09:31 PM
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Fusible Link Conversion Thread *pics*
Everyone knows what a pain it is to test, change, and search for replacements for the links. Some people change over to the 2nd gen fuse boxes to get rid of the pesky links. But... theres a much easier way!
Total Time: Less than a minute
Total Cost: Up to $6
This method is way easier than trying to swap over to another fuse box, with all the wiring and everything else. Its even cheaper than to go buy new links from the Mazda Stealership (which works out to about $20 for all three).
Heres what you need, go to any auto store, look on the shelf and find this type of fuse. I've seen them go for about $2 each. You can even rip these off at the junkyard from almost any engine fuse block in almost any car.
This is what they look like:
And, here's a shot of the back:
Here's a shot of the fuse next to the link...
Co-incidence you say? Yeah... probably. But it works!
Of course, you are going to need three of them, I used a 30,60,30 amp combination and have had no trouble with them. I've seen other posts around here that show different amperages, but I'll leave it open to suggestion as to what amp fuses to use. I've used the 30-60-30 combo for about 4-5 months now with no problems.
Now, the actual working part..
Rip out the old crusty, covered in dirt fusible links. You may want to hang on to them for the future just in case.
Now... once you've got all the old links out. Start inserting the fuses. Real simple . Start with the bottom first to make things easier. You may have to wiggle it around a bit, but it should slip in pretty easy.
Here's a shot of all three in place:
Now, celebrate! You're electronics work, you're headlights turn on, and are no longer stuck open! Have a drink and sit back knowing that you've gotten rid of those rotten fusible links.
These are a lot easier to change, and you can actually visibly see that they're blown rather than using a multimeter or feeling around the fusible link.
One more thing.... before anyone says clean up yer engine bay, or get rid of that A/C because its leetching power.. or fix all that rust... this is the parts car. And, a funny thing today too... I tried jacking it up in the rear-left with the stock jack, in the stock mounting position. The car starting going up.. then came crashing down...
A whole lot of rust sprayed out the bottom... the jack poked a whole straight through... man, was I glad it happened before I stuck my head under there.
Total Time: Less than a minute
Total Cost: Up to $6
This method is way easier than trying to swap over to another fuse box, with all the wiring and everything else. Its even cheaper than to go buy new links from the Mazda Stealership (which works out to about $20 for all three).
Heres what you need, go to any auto store, look on the shelf and find this type of fuse. I've seen them go for about $2 each. You can even rip these off at the junkyard from almost any engine fuse block in almost any car.
This is what they look like:
And, here's a shot of the back:
Here's a shot of the fuse next to the link...
Co-incidence you say? Yeah... probably. But it works!
Of course, you are going to need three of them, I used a 30,60,30 amp combination and have had no trouble with them. I've seen other posts around here that show different amperages, but I'll leave it open to suggestion as to what amp fuses to use. I've used the 30-60-30 combo for about 4-5 months now with no problems.
Now, the actual working part..
Rip out the old crusty, covered in dirt fusible links. You may want to hang on to them for the future just in case.
Now... once you've got all the old links out. Start inserting the fuses. Real simple . Start with the bottom first to make things easier. You may have to wiggle it around a bit, but it should slip in pretty easy.
Here's a shot of all three in place:
Now, celebrate! You're electronics work, you're headlights turn on, and are no longer stuck open! Have a drink and sit back knowing that you've gotten rid of those rotten fusible links.
These are a lot easier to change, and you can actually visibly see that they're blown rather than using a multimeter or feeling around the fusible link.
One more thing.... before anyone says clean up yer engine bay, or get rid of that A/C because its leetching power.. or fix all that rust... this is the parts car. And, a funny thing today too... I tried jacking it up in the rear-left with the stock jack, in the stock mounting position. The car starting going up.. then came crashing down...
A whole lot of rust sprayed out the bottom... the jack poked a whole straight through... man, was I glad it happened before I stuck my head under there.
Last edited by darkfrost; 07-15-05 at 09:48 PM.
07-15-05, 11:44 PM
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Thats the beauty of it. The fuse is a perfect fit. No modification is necessary at all, just a direct replacement of the link 
Think of a male and female spade connection. Inside the fusible link box are the male spades. The fusible links and the replacement fuses use the female spade connection. The fuse just happens to slide right into the fusible link box perfectly. No need to modify anything!
Think of a male and female spade connection. Inside the fusible link box are the male spades. The fusible links and the replacement fuses use the female spade connection. The fuse just happens to slide right into the fusible link box perfectly. No need to modify anything!
Last edited by darkfrost; 07-15-05 at 11:46 PM.
07-16-05, 03:35 AM
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Cooper Bussmann (Buss) makes those. They even call them fusible links as well, and come in amperages of 20 up to 60, in even decades. I saw them at Schucks(/Kragen/Checkers) the other day.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...4&page=1&pp=15
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...4&page=1&pp=15
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07-17-05, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RotorMotorDriver
Mike-P-28 has been running those for years, but thanks for the write up!
~T.J.
~T.J.
07-17-05, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dj55b
what cars can i rip them off of? any civics lol ?
07-17-05, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 1985_RX-7
Glad it didnt fall on you... Breaking news:Rotor head dies under a rotory powered car...
07-17-05, 01:33 AM
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Dip me in dog doo, and roll me in cracker crumbs
I was wondering about those fuses, nice to see they actually work. Do they seem to plug in deep enough to get a solid connection? I have not had any problems with the fuse links, but I think I will grab a few of those, just in case.
I wonder if the junction block was used when designing those little fuse links. After all, the first gen has been known to have issues with those fuse links for years.................
I was wondering about those fuses, nice to see they actually work. Do they seem to plug in deep enough to get a solid connection? I have not had any problems with the fuse links, but I think I will grab a few of those, just in case.
I wonder if the junction block was used when designing those little fuse links. After all, the first gen has been known to have issues with those fuse links for years.................
07-17-05, 01:36 AM
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They fit in nicely, they grab the blade in the box just fine. Its actually a good tight fit, just perfect. If it was just a co-incidence that they work so well... its a damn lucky one.
07-17-05, 01:40 AM
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Cool. When I first saw the pic of the newer style, I thought you was going to make jumper wires to connect them. I am happy to see I was WAY off target.
Thanks for sharing your find.
5 Thumbs up, my best rating.
Thanks for sharing your find.
5 Thumbs up, my best rating.
07-17-05, 05:05 PM
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? so you removed the cables and replaced the cables with fuses? I thought the part that works as a 'fuse' was the box. not the wires. So those wires are set to die out at a certain voltage?
I just want to know cus I am going through some **** with my car.
I just want to know cus I am going through some **** with my car.
07-17-05, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by apexwarrior
I thought the part that works as a 'fuse' was the box. not the wires. So those wires are set to die out at a certain voltage?
07-17-05, 07:36 PM
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Went outside and did mine this morning! Great idea! I had a 2nd gen fuse holder I was going to swap in but no need I just used the three fuses I needed out of it! Thanks!
07-18-05, 12:31 PM
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The haynes manual lists the fusable links as "0.5f and 1.25f" WTF is that sposed to mean?
Also, just a bump, in hopes of seeing this added to the archive.........................
Also, just a bump, in hopes of seeing this added to the archive.........................
07-18-05, 02:17 PM
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The part I like best about that conversion is that no soldering is required! The links are pretty sensitive to voltage and a faulty solder will makeyou think you burned up your car! I like that one, just clean em up and stick em in. Im gonna do it this afternoon, figure I can just copy the color pattern from the pics on the first post. Good one man!!!
