Fusible Link Conversion Thread *pics*
 

Everyone knows what a pain it is to test, change, and search for replacements for the links. Some people change over to the 2nd gen fuse boxes to get rid of the pesky links. But... theres a much easier way!

Total Time: Less than a minute
Total Cost: Up to $6

This method is way easier than trying to swap over to another fuse box, with all the wiring and everything else. Its even cheaper than to go buy new links from the Mazda Stealership (which works out to about $20 for all three).

Heres what you need, go to any auto store, look on the shelf and find this type of fuse. I've seen them go for about $2 each. You can even rip these off at the junkyard from almost any engine fuse block in almost any car.

This is what they look like:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...8/f33e9a71.jpg

And, here's a shot of the back:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/f33e9aae.jpg


Here's a shot of the fuse next to the link...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...7/f33e9a87.jpg
Co-incidence you say? Yeah... probably. But it works!


Of course, you are going to need three of them, I used a 30,60,30 amp combination and have had no trouble with them. I've seen other posts around here that show different amperages, but I'll leave it open to suggestion as to what amp fuses to use. I've used the 30-60-30 combo for about 4-5 months now with no problems.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...5/f33e9aa2.jpg

Now, the actual working part..

Rip out the old crusty, covered in dirt fusible links. You may want to hang on to them for the future just in case.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/f33e9a7b.jpg

Now... once you've got all the old links out. Start inserting the fuses. Real simple . Start with the bottom first to make things easier. You may have to wiggle it around a bit, but it should slip in pretty easy.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/f33e9a81.jpg

Here's a shot of all three in place:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/f33e9a8f.jpg

Now, celebrate! You're electronics work, you're headlights turn on, and are no longer stuck open! Have a drink and sit back knowing that you've gotten rid of those rotten fusible links.

These are a lot easier to change, and you can actually visibly see that they're blown rather than using a multimeter or feeling around the fusible link.

;)


One more thing.... before anyone says clean up yer engine bay, or get rid of that A/C because its leetching power.. or fix all that rust... this is the parts car. And, a funny thing today too... I tried jacking it up in the rear-left with the stock jack, in the stock mounting position. The car starting going up.. then came crashing down...:eek: A whole lot of rust sprayed out the bottom... the jack poked a whole straight through... man, was I glad it happened before I stuck my head under there.

nice wright up, but how did you get the fuse to stay in...did you just wire up the fusable link wires in the new fuse?

Thats the beauty of it. The fuse is a perfect fit. No modification is necessary at all, just a direct replacement of the link :)

Think of a male and female spade connection. Inside the fusible link box are the male spades. The fusible links and the replacement fuses use the female spade connection. The fuse just happens to slide right into the fusible link box perfectly. No need to modify anything!

Pretty slick. You get an "A".

You win the most ingenious/useful idea of the year!

Cooper Bussmann (Buss) makes those. They even call them fusible links as well, and come in amperages of 20 up to 60, in even decades. I saw them at Schucks(/Kragen/Checkers) the other day.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...4&page=1&pp=15

Mike-P-28 has been running those for years, but thanks for the write up!

~T.J.

Damn, lol, I thought it was original.

Glad it didnt fall on you... Breaking news:Rotor head dies under a rotory powered car...

what cars can i rip them off of? any civics lol ?

Almost anything, I guarantee you will find them at the junk yard. Just pop open some engine fuse blocks.

Nice write-up! :bigthumb: I'm on that first thing in the morning.

Ill be damn.

Yeah... ouch, that would have sucked. Though the condition the car is in, im sure the part my face hit would have just disintigrated. I'll take a pic of the damage later and post it, theres like a neat pile of rust right where the jack broke through.

Dip me in dog doo, and roll me in cracker crumbs:rlaugh:

I was wondering about those fuses, nice to see they actually work. Do they seem to plug in deep enough to get a solid connection? I have not had any problems with the fuse links, but I think I will grab a few of those, just in case.
I wonder if the junction block was used when designing those little fuse links. After all, the first gen has been known to have issues with those fuse links for years.................

They fit in nicely, they grab the blade in the box just fine. Its actually a good tight fit, just perfect. If it was just a co-incidence that they work so well... its a damn lucky one.

Cool. When I first saw the pic of the newer style, I thought you was going to make jumper wires to connect them. I am happy to see I was WAY off target.
Thanks for sharing your find.:bigthumb: :bigthumb: :bigthumb: :bigthumb: :bigthumb: 5 Thumbs up, my best rating.

? so you removed the cables and replaced the cables with fuses? I thought the part that works as a 'fuse' was the box. not the wires. So those wires are set to die out at a certain voltage?

I just want to know cus I am going through some shit with my car.

The "wires" are the fuse, and they burn out a at specific amperage.

Went outside and did mine this morning! Great idea! I had a 2nd gen fuse holder I was going to swap in but no need I just used the three fuses I needed out of it! Thanks! :bigthumb:

what amps do i go to for each fuse i have a gsl-se

The haynes manual lists the fusable links as "0.5f and 1.25f" WTF is that sposed to mean?

Also, just a bump, in hopes of seeing this added to the archive.........................

The part I like best about that conversion is that no soldering is required! The links are pretty sensitive to voltage and a faulty solder will makeyou think you burned up your car! I like that one, just clean em up and stick em in. Im gonna do it this afternoon, figure I can just copy the color pattern from the pics on the first post. Good one man!!!

wow nice tight fit!! wonder why mazda didn't use them.. they only cost me 2.99 each @ consumer auto parts

Great tip!

How do i remove the fusible links without damaging them?
To keep them if they are still good, for an emergency?