Full Synthetic
#1
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Full Synthetic
Hello, I love my car as I’m sure you all do and I want it to live as long as possible. I already premix and want to run a full synthetic oil. I know I have to do an OMP pump delete so I don’t get carbon deposit build up. Is there anything else I need to do? Or is there some other reason you would advise against running full synthetic?
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
Dino oil has come a long way, so I don't think there's a huge benefit to running synthetic, unless maybe you're tracking the car or drive it like you stole it all the time.
There's some folks that will chime in that run synthetic. I'm still running the OMP and use dino.
There's some folks that will chime in that run synthetic. I'm still running the OMP and use dino.
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running synthetic in the engine should be totally fine, but the two things to consider are
1. the money, if you're changing the oil a lot because it tends to get diluted with fuel, synthetic gets $$
2. second the rotor oil seal O rings are some kind of rubber/viton and they don't like some oils, so you're taking a small gamble that they will be ok.
1. the money, if you're changing the oil a lot because it tends to get diluted with fuel, synthetic gets $$
2. second the rotor oil seal O rings are some kind of rubber/viton and they don't like some oils, so you're taking a small gamble that they will be ok.
#5
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Stay away from Valvoline VR1 engine oils. They've been tied to several guys here who had their engines lose compression, likely due to seals getting stuck. Once they fog the engine or run some Marvel Mystery Oil through it, it comes back, but pretty consistent for Valvoline VR1 being the culprit.
Petroleum engine oils burn better than synthetics, and rotary engines have a certain amount of blow by that can't be avoided, hence I see no reason to run more expensive synthetic oil for no discernable improvement in performance by any measure.
Petroleum engine oils burn better than synthetics, and rotary engines have a certain amount of blow by that can't be avoided, hence I see no reason to run more expensive synthetic oil for no discernable improvement in performance by any measure.
#6
Did an OMP delete 3 years ago, premixing with Idemitsu or Motul 800 Racing.
Running Total 10W40 full synthetic in the engine, no issues so far on any seal, I change it annually because it does get mixed with fuel.
Driving about 1000miles a year.
Running Total 10W40 full synthetic in the engine, no issues so far on any seal, I change it annually because it does get mixed with fuel.
Driving about 1000miles a year.
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j9fd3s (08-10-22)
#7
3D Printed
The main reason I see to run a synthetic is the (generally) higher temperature tolerance. Particularly for turbo setups this is important. If I didn't have a turbo I'd be running dino oil all day, OMP or not. Without the OMP you can run synthetic but there's not much to gain on a mostly stock setup in my opinion. I would still avoid synthetic when the OMP is operable - might as well cut down on whatever soot build up you can. My two cents anyhow.
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j9fd3s (08-12-22)
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#8
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Stay away from Valvoline VR1 engine oils. They've been tied to several guys here who had their engines lose compression, likely due to seals getting stuck. Once they fog the engine or run some Marvel Mystery Oil through it, it comes back, but pretty consistent for Valvoline VR1 being the culprit.
Petroleum engine oils burn better than synthetics, and rotary engines have a certain amount of blow by that can't be avoided, hence I see no reason to run more expensive synthetic oil for no discernable improvement in performance by any measure.
Petroleum engine oils burn better than synthetics, and rotary engines have a certain amount of blow by that can't be avoided, hence I see no reason to run more expensive synthetic oil for no discernable improvement in performance by any measure.
I remember running Marvel Mystery Oil back in my FC days, but what is fogging the engine? Using fogging oil on a running car to loosen seals up?
#9
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