82_RX7_Taz

I have recently started the rebuild on the Nikki. I took off the Banjo Bolts on the fuel rail and now they won't go back in....they want to cross thread....any ideas?

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

the screens on them arent messing them up are they? ive never had an issue with putting those back in. if you messed up the threads on your air horn, pm me. ill hook you up.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Did you already tighten the other end of the inlet pipe? I find it works best to start all three bolts by hand before tightening any of them down. Make sure you get all the crush washers in their proper places.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

+1. If the center bolt is holding tension, the two halves of the banjo often won't line up right.

82_RX7_Taz

Well, here's the problem there. I never got the middle bolt loose. The banjo bolts were loosened 'after' the airhorn was removed from the main body.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

I just went through the same crap and ended up stripping one of the holes. So be careful with them. With the bolts out, you can tap the ends of the lines lightly with a hammer to position them dead center over the inlet holes. Other than that, it just requires a lot of patience to get them to thread down in there right sometimes. The banjo bolts are notorious for stripping the top threads in those holes.

I couldn't find a 10Mx1.0 tap anywhere so I ended up using a 10Mx1.25 to cut a few new threads at the top, which was enough to pull the bolt down into the properly pitched 1.0 threads.

82_RX7_Taz

I'll get back to the Banjo Bolts when I'm putting it back together...I have another problem. The check ***** won't fall out...Ive tapped, and slightly forcefully dropped from like two inches above the workspace. They won't come out....one I can see with a really bright flashlight the other...looks to be covered in a light slug. Any suggestions?

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

they are gummed up, spray carb cleaner in there with the straw (eye protection) and they should come out. When i did my first one they fell out on their own, the other one i did was so bad i had to spray it a few times.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

+1 on spray and let soak, plus 2 suggestions;

You can use gentle compressed air, but make sure you have the exit path covered with a cloth to catch the ball and weight as they come out.

The weights are brass, but the ***** are steel and will respond to a magnet. I have a magnetized icepick that was the final solution to my last 'gummed in place' check ball issue. Wiggle the ball loose, pull it out.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

its amazing how bad carbs get and still work. i dont know why people dont just rebuild sooner. im picking up an 82 gsl friday and thats the first thing im doing. it just rules out so many problems

82_RX7_Taz

I really wanna thank you guys for your support and knowledge. This carb rebuild scared me, but she's all apart minus the weights and check *****. I will use all your ideas when I get home from work tonight and let you know how she's coming. FYI...I have started a gallery of pic from the rebuild as they were asked for on another thread I started called 'Finally got the guts' . Probably under IAIS:

CLICKITY

82_RX7_Taz

SO, I was trying to remove the 4 jets before soaking the main body...tapping on the jets from the back side, and making sure I didn't use the blade end of the screwdriver...GUESS I HIT THIS ONE TOO HARD!



Yes, that thumbnail is slightly infected.

BTW, the check ***** still won't come out. Sprayed the carb cleaner in there, but no dice!

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

wow... i actually just tossed a decent carb in a car i was going to take in for scrap, if you need it, you can have it for the cost of shipping. why were you tapping on that btw?

82_RX7_Taz

I'll pick it all up with my headliner and seats

On the tutorial that I was following, it said to remove them before soaking the carb...so i was tapping on them to remove them. Actually, lemme know the shipping charge to 73179.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

if that piece on your hand is what you were trying to remove you dont need to. just the brass jets/plugs/airbleeds that unscrew. I rebuilt a few of them and never removed that piece. i have to go to the post office today, ill ask about a quote. Do you just want the carb body or the air horn too? the linkage is bent on the one i have, so you'd have to use yours.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

to be honest, i dont even know if those come off, do they? the jets are in the side of the float bowls. you get to them when you take off the 4 bolts under the float level lenses and stick a screwdrive through the holes

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Those are the venturies. They are press fit. No need to remove for a normal rebuild. I have several. PM if you need one.

Have you downloaded the 79-85 carb manual. 79-80 starts on PDF page 45, 81-82 starts on 77, 84-85 starts on 103. It has step by step rebuild procedures and great info/diagrams about carb theory.

http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual or
http://wright-here.net/cars/rx7/manuals.html

These pictures might also be helpful.

http://intertron.com/ron/carb.html

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Venturi boosters, to be precise. The venturi is the actual outer liner insert of each barrel.

Not normally removed, because they are press-fit in place, and removing/replacing them will eventually cause leaks & wobble.

Or, as you discovered, they break in the process.

They're just cast from pot metal (aka 'cheese'), and their shape & position in the bore is important; dings, bends, mis-positioning will disrupt airflow.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

Those things are pretty flimsy, but not that hard to get out. That one is a primary. Spray it with WD-40 or liquid wrench, then stick a phillips screwdriver down the threaded hole. Use a screwdriver that drops in there without any force, but doesn't have a whole lot of wiggle room. Tap the screwdriver lightly on each side with a hammer and try to wiggle the booster arm (what's left of it) loose.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

^ or skip all of that and leave them in

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, there's really no reason to take them out unless replacing a damaged one; carb dip will flow through them freely during immersion cleaning, and there's no plastic in them.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

I was giving him directions to take what was left of the broken one out. Look at the pic... half of it is still in there and it's going to have to go before he can press a new one in.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

I wasn't being a jerk I was just saying haha I'm mailing him a new carb body free.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

Just the body??

Jerk.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

Thata all he said he needed haha the linkage on my carb is bent and he polished his airhorn already