Fuel rail banjo bolts...Houston we have....
06-10-11, 06:58 AM
#26
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Those are the venturies. They are press fit. No need to remove for a normal rebuild. I have several. PM if you need one.
Have you downloaded the 79-85 carb manual. 79-80 starts on PDF page 45, 81-82 starts on 77, 84-85 starts on 103. It has step by step rebuild procedures and great info/diagrams about carb theory.
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual or
http://wright-here.net/cars/rx7/manuals.html
These pictures might also be helpful.
http://intertron.com/ron/carb.html
Have you downloaded the 79-85 carb manual. 79-80 starts on PDF page 45, 81-82 starts on 77, 84-85 starts on 103. It has step by step rebuild procedures and great info/diagrams about carb theory.
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual or
http://wright-here.net/cars/rx7/manuals.html
These pictures might also be helpful.
http://intertron.com/ron/carb.html
06-11-11, 03:02 AM
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06-15-11, 01:17 AM
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06-17-11, 10:01 PM
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Venturis arrived at some point today (Thanks Ron!). Long day....no sleep...added a 2" leveling kit to my truck on one hour of sleep, then went to work. Will probably get up in the middle of the night and start putting the carb back together...if only i can remember how I took it apart 2 weeks ago.
Big question. If the Venturis weren't suppose to come out, how do I gently push the new ones back in?
Big question. If the Venturis weren't suppose to come out, how do I gently push the new ones back in?
06-18-11, 12:11 AM
#39
Venturis arrived at some point today (Thanks Ron!). Long day....no sleep...added a 2" leveling kit to my truck on one hour of sleep, then went to work. Will probably get up in the middle of the night and start putting the carb back together...if only i can remember how I took it apart 2 weeks ago.
Big question. If the Venturis weren't suppose to come out, how do I gently push the new ones back in?
Big question. If the Venturis weren't suppose to come out, how do I gently push the new ones back in?
06-18-11, 09:52 AM
#42
No problem.
The active word here is tap. Probably could use the handle of a screw driver or a very small hammer. Make sure they are started in the hole properly (no threads BTW) then gently tap them down. They should go in fairly easily. Once they are seated fully you should be able to spin them a tiny bit (a mm or so). I use my fingers or a screwdriver to very gently pry against the arm to center the booster. In fact the best way to remove them is with your firgers. Turn them back and forth clockwise and counterclockwise while gently prying up on the arm near the press fit tube with a screwdriver. Lots of little back and forth strokes are often better than fewer long hard ones. At least that's what she said
The active word here is tap. Probably could use the handle of a screw driver or a very small hammer. Make sure they are started in the hole properly (no threads BTW) then gently tap them down. They should go in fairly easily. Once they are seated fully you should be able to spin them a tiny bit (a mm or so). I use my fingers or a screwdriver to very gently pry against the arm to center the booster. In fact the best way to remove them is with your firgers. Turn them back and forth clockwise and counterclockwise while gently prying up on the arm near the press fit tube with a screwdriver. Lots of little back and forth strokes are often better than fewer long hard ones. At least that's what she said
06-18-11, 11:55 AM
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No problem.
The active word here is tap. Probably could use the handle of a screw driver or a very small hammer. Make sure they are started in the hole properly (no threads BTW) then gently tap them down. They should go in fairly easily. Once they are seated fully you should be able to spin them a tiny bit (a mm or so). I use my fingers or a screwdriver to very gently pry against the arm to center the booster. In fact the best way to remove them is with your firgers. Turn them back and forth clockwise and counterclockwise while gently prying up on the arm near the press fit tube with a screwdriver. Lots of little back and forth strokes are often better than fewer long hard ones. At least that's what she said
The active word here is tap. Probably could use the handle of a screw driver or a very small hammer. Make sure they are started in the hole properly (no threads BTW) then gently tap them down. They should go in fairly easily. Once they are seated fully you should be able to spin them a tiny bit (a mm or so). I use my fingers or a screwdriver to very gently pry against the arm to center the booster. In fact the best way to remove them is with your firgers. Turn them back and forth clockwise and counterclockwise while gently prying up on the arm near the press fit tube with a screwdriver. Lots of little back and forth strokes are often better than fewer long hard ones. At least that's what she said
06-18-11, 03:02 PM
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short of sandpaper or an x-acto blade
So there are a couple of spots on the main body and airhorn that have the original carboard type gasket that has adhered nearly permanently. I have soaked them with both plain hot water and carb cleaner, but neither have enough penetration to aid in my tearing them away to make way for the new gaskets from the carb kit...any suggestions?
And while we are speaking of the carb kit, and since this is my first rebuild ever....EVER, do I need to use every piece for the replacent that I can figure out? or just those that seemingly look wore out? The kit (Sorenson from AutoZone) had numbers to correlate their placement in the carb as well as a diagram. What say yall?
And while we are speaking of the carb kit, and since this is my first rebuild ever....EVER, do I need to use every piece for the replacent that I can figure out? or just those that seemingly look wore out? The kit (Sorenson from AutoZone) had numbers to correlate their placement in the carb as well as a diagram. What say yall?
06-20-11, 02:11 AM
#45
So there are a couple of spots on the main body and airhorn that have the original carboard type gasket that has adhered nearly permanently. I have soaked them with both plain hot water and carb cleaner, but neither have enough penetration to aid in my tearing them away to make way for the new gaskets from the carb kit...any suggestions?
And while we are speaking of the carb kit, and since this is my first rebuild ever....EVER, do I need to use every piece for the replacent that I can figure out? or just those that seemingly look wore out? The kit (Sorenson from AutoZone) had numbers to correlate their placement in the carb as well as a diagram. What say yall?
And while we are speaking of the carb kit, and since this is my first rebuild ever....EVER, do I need to use every piece for the replacent that I can figure out? or just those that seemingly look wore out? The kit (Sorenson from AutoZone) had numbers to correlate their placement in the carb as well as a diagram. What say yall?
Might as well replace everything you can. There will be some pieces left over, as that kit comes with alternate gaskets for alternate carb designs. I wouldn't fool with removing the richer solenoid or the vent solenoid. Stuff I would deem mission critical:
All "sandwich" gaskets that mate the different sections of the carb
Accelerator pump diaphragm, and all associated pieces including the outlet parts
Float needles and seats
Vacuum secondary box gasket if you're not removing and blocking it
Remove and clean all jets and air bleeds, ONE BY ONE so you don't mix them up
Replace washers for any bolts you remove
06-20-11, 01:13 PM
#46
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Stuff I would deem mission critical:
All "sandwich" gaskets that mate the different sections of the carb
Accelerator pump diaphragm, and all associated pieces including the outlet parts
Float needles and seats
Vacuum secondary box gasket if you're not removing and blocking it
Remove and clean all jets and air bleeds, ONE BY ONE so you don't mix them up
Replace washers for any bolts you remove
All "sandwich" gaskets that mate the different sections of the carb
Accelerator pump diaphragm, and all associated pieces including the outlet parts
Float needles and seats
Vacuum secondary box gasket if you're not removing and blocking it
Remove and clean all jets and air bleeds, ONE BY ONE so you don't mix them up
Replace washers for any bolts you remove
Both the bolts from the top of the airhorn and all jets have top view pics of them. Each of those pics were printed, then using the pic, I pressed the screws or jets through the printed picture. Go 'head, click on down cheer:
My photo album
I didn't wanna mix those jets up, so after I did it with the bolts, I figured it would be even better for the jets!
06-23-11, 05:35 AM
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Otherwise, I finally got some time now and am starting to do final cleanups on the bowl windows, changing out the gaskets there.
BTW, the razor blade for the gasket was impossible since I have no razor blades...but a pairing knife at just the right angle scooped those gaskets right off (with the help of soaking them in carb spray).
06-23-11, 06:13 AM
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I've made a startling discovery while doing the bowl windows. The gaskets in each window are different. That is to say they are of a different material. One seemed like the original, brown cardboardish material like the gaskets that I scraped from the top and bottom of the main body, the other window has a material much like the material that I have now in the kit, a dark gray to black carboard. I am thinking someone went into this carb once. Might explain other parts of why this car was hard to bring to a smooth, low idle before the rebuild, and before the slug worked its way through the carb...just my own personal thoughts.
Also may answer why there was no weight in that other chamber.
Also may answer why there was no weight in that other chamber.
Last edited by 82_RX7_Taz; 06-23-11 at 06:14 AM. Reason: added checkball thingy
06-23-11, 06:19 AM
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And one more thing. The accelerator pump diaphragm is a different shape in the kit. It is a perfect square while the original one has a slight tab to it. 
The screw holes match, it just doesn't have extra tab. Do I need to show a pic, or do yall know what I'm talking about?
The screw holes match, it just doesn't have extra tab. Do I need to show a pic, or do yall know what I'm talking about?
06-23-11, 07:18 AM
#50
This is taken from Sterlings website: Sterlingmetalworks.com
"If you've lost one of the accelerator pump weights, there are a few creative alternatives; To replace the skinny weight, take one of the old pins from the original float needle assemblies and clip off the head. It's best to apply a small amount of pressure to clippers and slowly work your way around the pin, effectively girdling the whole thing before you finally snip off the top. You should be left with no burrs sticking out.
Another check ball can work as a weight for under the nozzle, but a BB is better. Whatever you use, it has to be small and smooth."
Thank you Sterling!
"If you've lost one of the accelerator pump weights, there are a few creative alternatives; To replace the skinny weight, take one of the old pins from the original float needle assemblies and clip off the head. It's best to apply a small amount of pressure to clippers and slowly work your way around the pin, effectively girdling the whole thing before you finally snip off the top. You should be left with no burrs sticking out.
Another check ball can work as a weight for under the nozzle, but a BB is better. Whatever you use, it has to be small and smooth."
Thank you Sterling!