Kentetsu

I'm trying to get the control arms off and everything is fine except that the bolt that it hinges on will not budge. This would be the bolt at the innermost end of the control arm. And when I say it won't budge, I mean it. I've been pounding on it with a freaking sledge hammer for Pete's sake! I've used a torch. I've tried to press it out with a huge c-clamp (that didn't work out so well). It just won't move.

What in God's name do I have to do to get this damn bolt out? Open to any ideas or suggestions that you may have. Thanks.

Rogue_Wulff

Sounds like the bolt and sleeve inside the bushing have fused together from rust.
You are on the right track with the torch and big hammer. You may need to heat it to the point the bushing, or whatever may be left of it, starts to melt. I would advise having a small fire extinguisher handy, just in case.

Kentetsu

Thanks man. I was kind of leaning toward that same theory but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something (like, "you did remove the C-Clip and depress the magic button, right").....

Rogue_Wulff

I know the feeling. I have never seen anything like that on these cars, but ANYTHING is possible...........

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

From your description I'm assuming you mean the inboard side of the tie rod where the end connects to the steering , right ? I've used a ball joint splitter to get these to separate in the past. Put it in between the knuckles and wack it with a big hammer until it pops.

Rogue_Wulff

I believe he is refering to the lower control arms.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about that, I was thinking tie rods for some reason. Yeah, the inner control arm bolt can be really hard to get out. It does get siezed with the sleeve. I just used liquid wrench for a couple of sessions and kept pounding it with a 5lb. sledge hammer. Once I got it out I dressed it down and hit it with some grease when I put it back in so in the future it would come out easier.

Rogue_Wulff

Grease or anti-seize is a good plan. Don't get too conservative with it, either.

Kentetsu

I'll be installing new polygraphite bushings from PST once I get this stuff torn apart. I'm actually taking suspension pcs off my parts car, installing the new bushings, then I will install the refreshed parts on my daily driver. This way I can clean, soak, prime, and paint any of the pieces as I go along without having my car off the road for a week.

rotor vs. piston

I've been meaning to post for a while about the tie rods that come with the PST kit. My boots are already slit! I've had them up there maybe two years I think. I replaced my inners with some MOOG pieces and those still look brand new (the boots).

X2 on that damn bolt, I was lucky and the suspension had be swapped on my SA at some point so I maybe only had 10years of fusion going on. But me and ol' sledgey showed them what the score was!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

P B Blaster, heat, the hit it with an air chisel. I use the the insert with the point. Saves all that swinging with a hand sledge and you don't damage as much when you miss. Hit it from both ends to loosen the rusted sleeve. Works good on rear suspension and shock bolts too.

You can pick up an air chisel, with tips for 20 or less.

Kentetsu

But you'd still need a compressor and tank to run it, right (air chisel)?

I can't believe those bolts are still in there. Sat the torch on it for about 20 minutes, sprayed the hell out of it with some PB Blaster, cranked on it with a 1/2" drive socket and actually got it turning pretty good, then continued to pound on it with the sledge. This bastard ain't even thinking about letting loose. The metal of the frame is actually bulging out now around the bolt.

I'm going to cut the head off the bolt and see if I can drive it through from the other side. Might have to pull the steering gear to get clearance though. This really sucks. I wanted to get so much done today, and got stonewalled at the first fn bolt I came to! LOL. ****!!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If you are going to cut the bolt, cut it inside the arm, on the head side. That bolt and sleeve are not going anywhere, in either direction.

Kentetsu

I think I know what you mean. I'll be using a cold chisel to cut it though, so I doubt it will fit in there. Maybe I'll see if my buddy can bring over his cutoff tool for me. I'm done with this until I get the kids in bed anyway. Thanks for your thoughts T.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Don't use a cold chisel. You will end up doing damage to other parts. It you ate your Wheaties today, try snapping the bolt in half by tightening it. It it snaps at the head, your good, if it snaps at the nut, well.......good luck.

Let it soak overnight with the penetrant, the hit it with heat again tomorrow.

Rogue_Wulff

Parts car huh? Use the torch to burn away the bolts from both ends, and as you get close to the frame, turn it towards the center of the bolt. If the parts car is beyond getting back on the road, little extra care needs to be taken, but if it could be put back on the road, use lots of extra care.
Once you get the arms out, the bolt issue will be solved by knocking out the old bushings.

Kentetsu

Well, there's still a slight chance of putting it back together as a racer but I haven't decided yet. Tomorrow I'll go pick up a cheap anglegrinder and get a cutting wheel for it, friend said they're about 20 bucks at harbor freight. I've used one before and nothing beats them for getting stuff taken apart.